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Parus major

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About Parus major

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

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  • Interests
    US WWII Re-enactment.
    Wargaming and miniature painting.
  • Location
    The Pans, East Lothian
  1. Yes, the 15PL has a very different focuser to the standard 150P, the tension adjustment is a sprung plate on the bottom with four screws and the main fit adjustment being two grub screws on the top which adjust the sitting of a plastic brake plate that the tightening knob pressed. It's just guff. I'm kind of leaning towards getting a motor focuser and just tightening everything up.
  2. I did a 150PL tube which is 113cm long and it wasn't fun but it wasn't too taxing either. What I did was is use the grid on the back to cut it into 20cm wide strips and cut to be about 2cm longer than the internal circumference of the tube. peel a bit of the backing off and set it up against the raised edge of the rolled seam up the length and place it on, rubbing it flat until you go round. The material is quite thick so placing the next piece up to it was easy. It's not hard work, it's just a chore.
  3. Cheers guys. I've already had it to bits in the past to paint the outside of it's tube it did make it a little better but there's just so much movement in it. I do get on with it but not because of the size, it sits on an eq6 all the time so bulk isn't an issue and I don't go anywhere past the garden gate with it. I'll look into getting that GSO focuser. The issue with the PL is that the secondary isn't conducive to a 2" focuser
  4. Right I was out the other night and after all these years I got so annoyed with the wobbly slack focuser on the SW Explorer 150PL that I really wanted to snap it off and throw it over the wall. This got me thinking, I do love the 150PL and I've done a lot to it like flocking, Bob's knobs and blacking the edges of the secondary and I'd like to keep it but that brings a few thoughts up. Should I just bite the bullet and find a new focuser? I do try to do something a few years ago and got a TS baseplate but ran out of funds before I got an actual focuser. Or do I just go "meh" and just get an
  5. It might be the PC modder in me but if I got a white dob I'd paint the black furniture orange and get Aperture Science decals like in the game Portal.
  6. That's right, that's largely why it's pants. The plossl's I've mentioned have 4 element designs, I'm sure.
  7. The tube will touch the legs every now and again. You can avoid this by doing a meridian flip and moving the tube to the other side for the same target. The eyepieces that come with the telescope are a funny thing, at first you will be exceptionally pleased with them as a beginner but you will eventually want to throw the barlow and the 10mm into the deepest ocean you can find. Being an F8 OTA it does go easy on cheaper eyepieces so you do effectively get a free upgrade on quality when you buy an eyepiece. In terms of upgrades You can pick pretty much anything and it will be an improvement, th
  8. Aye, that's why I said a dob is a good move for all stages. Early you get a lot of aperture for your money, later you have a lot of aperture on an EQ mount if you want to.
  9. If you're on a serious budget then mybe a motor for the mount would be good, that would get rid of the need to touch the set up. Another would be looking around for a cheap EQ3-2 second hand. Being fair, the middle ground is your 250p Dob in your sig. That's a scope for all stages.
  10. The two big failures I made was not installing the EQdir driver and not setting the com port. At the time I didn't know you could manually set them and every USB port I plugged was higher number than the programme could go.
  11. Yes. You'll need a bog standard playstation controller to USB adapter from ebay for a few quid. I used one for a year.
  12. Mr B made a brilliant Astronomer. where was his home star "that way", he points in the day time. Well done, Mr Newton!
  13. Star Trek First Contact qualifies since it has a 14" SCT.
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