Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Gina]

Oh yes!!  They've caught me out a few times!

[LarryC]

Thanks for the optimism.  I will take it apart and check, again, the cables.

[LarryC]

Happy days again!  Not to be too irreverent, but the perfect day for it to have apparently arisen from the dead!!!

I took everyone's advice and went through every connector I could find, even those not normally disturbed during sensor module replacement and...it's back! Whew!  And I had already begun looking for a new T2i on the bay.

I have polishing tips for my rotary tool and some new PlastX and Novus polishing compounds on their way to try. 

 

[Gina]

Great!

[geyes30]

Been fascinated with this thread (and others like it) for a long while. Today I finally managed to get a working sensor with no dead pixels. This is my fourth sensor (two 1000D, two 450D). First 1000D I was basically in over my head. I scraped off all the blue edges and had a completely dead sensor. Next two were better - I got working, monochrome sensors in each case but there was still inadvertent damage to the sensors, with dead pixels or lines. This last one I modified the method. Instead of polishing, I used an ultraviolet lamp (UVC) and shone it on the sensor for about 6 hours. That made the microlens and filter layers brittle enough to scrape off with a pair of sharp tweezers. I did this on an inspection microscope, which I think should be mandatory, especially if you want to work fairly close to the edge. Two images attached here. The first is a flat, and the second is a frame of my living room wall after flats and darks processing. Because I am fairly clumsy, I applied slow-setting epoxy along the four edges to protect the wires and the blue edges. Unfortunately this meant that the epoxy invariably flowed onto small bits of the sensor. That's why I have intact CFA on some parts. Nevertheless, pretty awesome! Thanks everyone!

Edited April 1, 2016 by geyes30

[Herra Kuulapaa]

So quiet..

Astrophotography isn't the only use for monochrome cameras. NIR and UVA can be imaged quite easily with mono camera. In fact removal of UVA absorbing RGB filters makes the total short wavelength response better.

 

[Thalestris24]

Hi Herra

Was that with a UV pass filter?

(Yes, it is very quiet... I suppose lots of people have packed up for the summer already. I think some people left a while back because they didn't like the 'new' forum. Such is life!

Louise

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Yes, it has been taken with a UG1 UV pass filter and IR block. It's quite interesting how flowers look different in UVA light than in VIS.

Visually transparent SPF 20 sun screen in UV:

 

[RFE3]

Quote

 

I still check this thread everyday to see what's new in the Mono Mod world, It has been very quiet lately. I got a replacement chip for my 350D last week but haven't had time to "Have a go" at it yet. I actually got 2 new chips just in case....

[Gina]

Me too and I'm hoping to get back to my own work on this before long.

[Thalestris24]

Hi all

Quick question... Anyone know if there's a batch command in IRIS for converting .cr2 to .fit? (for mono stacking in dss). I can load and save a single file ok but it's a bit tedious to do that for lots of files...

Thanks in advance

Louise

[Calypsob]

On 4/19/2016 at 11:53, Herra Kuulapaa said:

So quiet..

Astrophotography isn't the only use for monochrome cameras. NIR and UVA can be imaged quite easily with mono camera. In fact removal of UVA absorbing RGB filters makes the total short wavelength response better.

 

herra, have you ever tried doing any narrow band with the UV pass filters? 

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Do you mean some sort of multispectral imaging?

I've given some thought taking red channel from H-alpha, green from O-III and blue from UVA - should be rather interesting 

Edited May 1, 2016 by Herra Kuulapaa

[Xplode]

I've been very happy just using my mono 6D so i forgot to check this thread lately

I thought i'd share some results from the camera...

This is a single 120s @ iso 1600 frame from my mono 6D, flatfielded (with wrong flats) and stretched a little. Sensor temp was around +10C

Scope is a 12" f/3.8 newtonian.

It's the full uncropped frame so feel free to download and examine.

 

90x of those frames...dithered, no darks and old flats that didn't remove dustmotes.

 

Older RGB data with an 8" newtonian and 6Da.

 

 

Combined they look like this...

 

 

With some further processing by Göran Nilsson it ended up like this.

 

Pretty good results from what some CCD guys would call a "crappy noisy DSLR"

 

 

Edited May 1, 2016 by Xplode

[Gina]

Lovely great images Helps to have a nice big scope though 

[Herra Kuulapaa]

I posted this on the Solar imaging thread, but I guess I won't get trown into jail linking it here as well 

Anyway, I had this idea, a crazy judged one, to image sun as a full sphere in Ha with DSLR. It came out rather good I think..

Taken yesterday, first of May.

Edited May 2, 2016 by Herra Kuulapaa

[Xplode]

Very good Herra,  much better than i've seen others get with a DSLR.

I have access to a Lunt 60mm so i should test that with my 6D too

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Hi Ola,

I've used my D600am as well and it's doing great with Ha. Can't recall which ISO it was, but propably 200 or so. And with that the full well capacity is nearly 40ke-, which means absolutely fantastic dynamic range! Your 6D should be very similar what comes to the saturation maximum. I however can get slightly larger magnification with D5100am smaller pixels (4.78um vs 6um) so I've mostly used it lately.

I have also one monochrome D800 sensor, but haven't yet  installed it to camera. It has practically same size pixels with D5100 (4.78um vs 4.88um) so it should really rock also in solar imaging.

[RFE3]

Well, this sensor looks a little better than the last one....except for the nice little line of dead Pixels on the lower right side. When I compare it to the Photos from Herra they look about the same (color wise). I'm going to give it a try this weekend, the Weather-liar says no Rain or Clouds in the Salzkammergut region of Austria this weekend....Fingers Crossed.... I'll hopefully be able to post a couple of Photos next week.

 

[RFE3]

I got to take a couple of Photos with the Debayered 1000D this weekend at the Clubs Observatory. The Camera works great (unlike my Auto Guider this weekend). Here are 2 photos of Antares, the first is Raw, only opened in PS and converted to a JPEG. The second is the same photo only with the RGB channels aligned and converted to JPEG. The photos are 300 seconds at ISO 400 with a 1.25" IR/UV Cut Filter. There's a bit of vignetting in the corners from the filter placement. I 3D printed some EOS Clip Filter holders for 1.25" filters, the vignetting wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I can probably live with it considering the savings of not having to buy Astronomic clip filters or 2" Screw type filters. Now to do the 350D's and my Camera Stable will almost be complete.

[russellhq]

I was reading this the other day and think it might be a good contender for protecting the gold wires:

http://www.designworldonline.com/enhance-electronic-performance-with-epoxy-compounds/

It's an epoxy specially designed for the task:

- "epoxy based “glob top” encapsulants protect and support bare die and their wire bonds in chip-on-board (COB) assemblies"

-"Specifically formulated to be thixotropic, glob tops flow smoothly in response to stress applied during application, but rapidly increase in viscosity."

-"this allows them to easily cover the chip and fill narrow gaps between wires without damaging delicate parts, while preventing them from flowing beyond the desired area."

 

Might cut down the number of dead sensors 

[RFE3]

26 minutes ago, russellhq said:

I was reading this the other day and think it might be a good contender for protecting the gold wires:

http://www.designworldonline.com/enhance-electronic-performance-with-epoxy-compounds/

It's an epoxy specially designed for the task:

- "epoxy based “glob top” encapsulants protect and support bare die and their wire bonds in chip-on-board (COB) assemblies"

-"Specifically formulated to be thixotropic, glob tops flow smoothly in response to stress applied during application, but rapidly increase in viscosity."

-"this allows them to easily cover the chip and fill narrow gaps between wires without damaging delicate parts, while preventing them from flowing beyond the desired area."

 

Might cut down the number of dead sensors 

Looks promising but I wonder if there are any Distributors in the EU. From their Website is looks as if it can only be ordered from the US.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

It's so bright here in north this time of year it makes no sense even trying astrophotography. So, more UV:

D800 reference:

 

And D600am (astromono) UVA:

[Stub Mandrel]

I wonder if I could get UV photos by subtracting a v-blocked frame from a full spectrum one.

[D4N]

11 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

I wonder if I could get UV photos by subtracting a v-blocked frame from a full spectrum one.

Theoretically yes, however the camera and subject would need to be identically placed between the two images.  Since you need to remove the UV blocking filter I think this would be impractical for most purposes.