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It's a start


Daniel-K

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quick update in between the showers got 40 lengths of timber today so that brings me up to 60 this should cover all of the frame work and base. knocking the base together today and possible setting it on supports concreted in the ground so its floating not had chance to pour the concrete for the pier yet as i have en counted a small issue but nothing we cant come over .

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a very busy day today got all the base knocked up together with all the joists screws into place dug 9 holes for the floor supports and concreted the timber in warped in rubble sacks for extra protection. then gave all the base another coat of creosote some untreated wood was use for the joist and have only had one coat but they will get another tomorrow. hoping the weathers ok for tomorrow so we can get the four sides up but if not we will just knock them up in the garage and wait for a nice day.really happy got the base out the way its solid and all nice and level :grin:

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feels like it has taken ages to get to this stage but im happy with it so far looks like rain all day today so me and barry will probably knock the four sides up in the garage. looks like im going to need another 20 lengths for the roof and slide off supports which will be 3x3 concreted into the floor. back to work on wednesday so there will be no more building till monday next week when im off for another 4 days. with these new shifts im really getting alot done as i work 4days on 4days off so its looking good to be finished and running for september :)

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made some room today in the garage as it was raining and decide to knock up the frames. i have never done anything like this so it took me 2 hours to do one frame untill barry came around at 1 and then it took another 2 hours to do the other 3 as you will see in the pics he has the best tools compared to my budget ones. we had to make the 12ft sections in 2 and decided to fix them to the base and brace them while we made the front and back only because we were short on space in the garage at this point we were getting wet but after that it stopped so we assembled the front and back and fixed them all together another good day :) i wasnt planning on doing much today but now all the frame is up and done i can take a break for a week and plan the roof and get some more timber so far total costs:

wood form B&Q trrade counter £180

x3 box of screws £30

bottle of creosote £10 ( it is still going!!!!)

paint brush's £4

concrete £ 35

TOTAL - £ 259 :)

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i have just been looking at it and i think my walls are to high! when we set the base in the concrete it has raised the base up so it means i have less height on the pier now i think im going to have to cut the sides down DOH!!

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could do but how stable are they?

Seems stable enough to me :) OK not quite as stable as my concrete pier but I have no problem with my NEQ6 Pro with long exposure imaging and guiding.
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I would suggest fitting two opposing diagonal braces in the end walls. It will prevent any tendency for a left/right movement

we could only fit 4 braces ran out of wood :rolleyes: till next week

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i have just been looking at it and i think my walls are to high! when we set the base in the concrete it has raised the base up so it means i have less height on the pier now i think im going to have to cut the sides down DOH!!

It's an easy mistake to make Dan. When I built mine I calculated the height from top wall to ground outside, this gave me the height of the pillar + mount + scope in park position.

I know it's more work but I'd reduce the building height - although leaving it will mean you can upgrade your mount and scope to something bigger(don't tell the wife,lol). :wink:

Don't forget to include pull rope under the floor for your cables/wiring - saves having to lift up floor later.

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Having thought about it I still have to put my pier plates on and a mount when stood inside it looks to be ok I suppose I won't be imaging much that low anyway and it would keep the wind out about more I will have to do some serious thinking on this also how and what is your obs wired up with ?

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I've simply run mains sockets to north and south sides of Obsy, also run USB, +12V dc(phono sockets), computer serial/parallel cables(just in case)to the pillar from north and south sides.

I've a heavy duty 12V 30A PSU, mains red wall light, 12V low level red floor lights and an independant RF alarm system ( if triggered will send me an alarm tone to a hand radio - about 10 mile radius)

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had a spare few hours today after a day out with the family for my b-day decided to creosote the rest framework for peace of mind. my little one joined in too , nice to spend some time with her :) ( well away from were i was painting of course) she loves it when its clear and joins me in the garden sat next to me watching satalites going over head. cant wait for her to join me in the obsy she already ask me weres the bed going :ppost-6284-0-67903600-1341331123_thumb.jp

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Your obs is looking really good.

For some reason, on paper, the wall heights seemed appropriate, but once one wall went up I immediately saw it was too high so I chopped the base of the wall shorter by about 6 inches, taking into account I still had to place 4" tall beams on the top perimeter of the walls to support the rails for the roof.

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its coming on still a fair bit to do but im off for 3 weeks on the 23rd so hoping to get the bulk of it done not planning on much next week ( bills to pay) so it may just be case of cutting the sides down a few inch's and planning the roof, mu neighbors thought it was a conservatory till i said what it was and now they want to come see when its all done. im going for 25mm MDF for the floor and 8 on the insides. toying with the idea of having a separate section at the front of the obs as the warm room

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im going for 25mm MDF for the floor and 8 on the insides. toying with the idea of having a separate section at the front of the obs as the warm room

IMO you'll regret it, especially given the lovely wet summer we are having. MDF will swell when damp - 18mm exterior ply for the floor and 4mm ply to line the walls will suffice, plus there would be little difference in cost

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I agree with Malcolm - MDF is not suitable. Thin plywood for the walls and either plywood for the floor like Malcolm has or good quality T&G like I have.

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I also agree with Malcolm and Gina - MDF will swell.

By the way, I thought child slave labour was abolished, lol

My two little girls love the Obsy, although daddy has to clear out the big spiders first..... :eek:

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had some fun today finished work at 6am after a 12 hour shift went and fitted some carpets for the sister in-law at 9am so had 2 hours sleep! them off me and barry went to B&Q to pick up some more timber for the roof 30 to be exact. as i said in a previous post it looked like the walls were too high and yes they were so today we tackled trimming them all down by 7 inch's doesnt sound alot but it made one hell of a deference the whole frame looks neater aswell as the apex for the front of the roof fitting flush to the frame work. took a fair bit of time to do this set back about a day but its all done right now barry started knocking up the other parts for the roof but he only managed one after all it was a busy day but now we have a template to do the other 3 triangle parts for the roof. with all the timber for the roof sitting here it should be no time before the roof is up and on then its just case of making it all water tight :)

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