bosun21

Good idea 👍. Now where did i put that recipe book? On a serious note the dehydrate setting would be ideal for this 🤔.

Tallying my own expenditure over the previous couple of years took my breath away. Ignorance is bliss as they say.

Thank you gentlemen for your input. I’ll go ahead with the 2.6x and either the 19mm or 24mm Panoptics. Having the option of all three GPC’s available makes sense. I do like the idea of having a spare T2 diagonal with the 2.6x pre installed for an easier and safer changeover in the dark. Thanks again.

I’d go for the Skywatcher 127 Maksutov go to. It’s a fantastic little planetary scope that will show good detail on the planets. You will see definite banding on Jupiter and Mars as a defined planetary disc as opposed to a twinkly red star. It also has the benefit of tracking which will allow you to observe at high magnification without having to constantly nudge your telescope. It’s also good for lunar and some of the brighter DSO’s like planetary nebula. Out of curiosity have you checked the collimation of your 130 ?

I have already acquired the 1.25x and 1.7x GPC’s for my Maxbright II binoviewer and have the 2.6x on order. I was wondering whether or not the 2.6x is used very much with the binoviewer and if it’s practical to own all three. I have narrowed down the eyepieces I want to buy for them also and it’s between the Delites or Panoptics. Is one better for binoviewing over the other? I can’t seem to make my mind up. Thanks.

There’s a few step down transformers (240v AC to 12v AC) on Amazon rated at 3A.

Out of curiosity Stu, how heavy are they? Can they be used hand held comfortably? Thanks.

The only drawback of this is that unless you build in a phone adjustment mechanism otherwise you will have to use that phone for ever.(no upgrades). Phone lens placement changes as well as dimensions in different models and makes.

That’s exactly what I used for my SS. I just moved my optical finder to the side

Regarding pointing accuracy I found that a good initial alignment of the SS unit with the scope is essential. Once roughly aligned I always use two fingers on the phone screen to zoom in on your alignment target. I have found this helps considerably. So far every target I have selected has been in the FOV of a 17.5mm Morpheus.

Apparently they indeed do come with a 12v AC power supply as well.

Are you totally sure that it’s not 240v 50Hz and 12v DC?. I found someone with the same telescope and his is 12v DC. Is this your telescope. He is on SGL so you can message him and ask, his name is @CCD-Freak.👇.

You point it downwards to ensure that any moisture doesn’t ingress into the optics. I used to use the heated dew shield and it kept the dew at bay even on the worst nights. It will also prevent the meniscus lens from freezing over in winter.

You might want to buy a heated dew shield as opposed to a dew band as your existing dew shield will cover the position of the front meniscus lens where the dew band needs to go. I don’t know if placing the band further back will have the same effect. On bringing the scope indoors I used to remove the heaters and cap and point the scope downwards until the morning. Then just blow the meniscus lens with an air blower and replace the cap.

Remember that once connected to your telescope WiFi you will have to carry out the alignment process to allow the use of the go to function. The Synscan pro application works fine on both Android and iOS.

I downloaded the lunar 100 a while ago and I’m about half way through it. All the usual suspects are included.

I would also change the 3x barlow that is supplied with your telescope for a more conservative 2x. You will get much more use from this as well as clearer views.

I have only had to clean my primary mirror once and that was due to a pollen build up. I place mine in a basin with tepid water with a drop of soap and let it soak to loosen the pollen. I then use my fingers to run over the surface to feel for anything that has adhered to the mirrors surface. Then wipe from the centre spot out with a clean cotton ball each wipe. I then rinse the mirror with distilled water and blow the excess off with a hairdryer on cool. Stand to dry.

Courtesy of @Franklin the postie delivered a Baader 1.25 GPC. Just waiting for the 1.7 & 2.6 to come back in stock now.

Thanks to all that replied. I guess I will just keep it simple and get myself a couple of TV plossl's and SLV's to start off with.👍.

I think you must have as it has totally different stars with diffraction spikes. All the others are fine and look great by the way.

How come the Horsehead has reflector diffraction spikes? I’ve never seen that with an 80mm refractor.

Nice captures Peter. On my short adventure into the world of solar observing I found that the granulation became more visible when using high magnification. If I were to revisit solar I would probably combine the low power disc views with high magnification views of sunspots etc.

I am looking for advice on which way to go regarding eyepiece purchases for my new Maxbright II binoviewer. I previously owned a Maxbright II and used it with two Morpheus 17.5mm eyepieces. The views were great but I found them to be too heavy and large for my liking. I am looking at maybe SLV’s , TV plossl’s, Baader 18mm BCO’s , Starguiders and others. I am going to be using it on my F7 Starfield frac. Is there any preferential FOV for binoviewing eyepieces? I am also waiting for Baader to come out with their new GPC for Newtonians to enable me to use them in my 12” dobsonian. They no longer sell the old version. Sorry for all the questions.

There is no 16mm BST Starguider eyepiece as far as I know. There’s a 15mm which was the best of the bunch IMO.