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Jerry Barnes

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  1. I used to stack nef files from my Z6 in Deep Sky Stacker before getting a cooled camera. I dont know if there have been format changes with your Z50 but it would be easy to check and its less work than processing in lightroom first.
  2. I donated and got a link to the macros and then emails every time there was an update, the last one today. Drop him an email.
  3. James has also created some macros to help processing, referenced in the youtube description of the video I linked. You choose what you want to pay for them, $1 to ...... The only one of the set I've used much does an auto stretch of the image so its very useful to get a first look at your stack and see what you have to work with.
  4. This should be a start. James has done several astrophotography videos.
  5. I had the same choice to make some months ago. I eventually decided to go for the OSC then with an L-enhance filter I could do a pseudo hubble like image if I wanted to. I've had limited success doing that but neither have I had many opportunities to try. Another consideration was cost, circa 3k for mono and 2K for OSC very roughly depending on final choices (I went for the 2600MC Pro which wasnt cheap - lots of flowers!) Either should give you good results at the end of the day.
  6. Thanks everybody, you are confirming what I thought. I'll work on my technique and investigate dithering. Its not so long till the astronomy show in March so I'll keep the credit card locked up till then at least.
  7. To get the surface brightness you can use the calculator and provide magnitude and size from stellarium or similar. Alternatively you can add 8.9 to the surface brightness. Telescopius has that and probably other sources too. Easy to make a mistake though. I'm not familiar with Cartes du Ciel. I've not tried to dither yet, Thats the next thing to try out I think.
  8. Keep us posted on how it performs for you once there are clear nights.
  9. There is a thread in mounts asking for opinions on the EQM35 Pro. I was interested as I have one and then started thinking about how important a mount is if your equipment is relatively light (like mine). Do I really need a mount that will give me 20 minute exposures? The difference in signal to noise ratio between 10 minute subs and 1 minute subs is minimal. What does make a big difference is light pollution. If I travel 30 mins to get from bortle 6 to bortle 4 the signal to noise ratio almost doubles. If I can work with 1 minute subs do I even need to worry much about guiding in Dec? (The weakness in the EQM35 apparently) The subs will still stack wont they? I’m thinking I might do better with a light mount that’s portable and spend money on power packs and controlling using a Raspberry Pi rather than a laptop instead of upgrading to an EQ6 Pro say. Am I missing something here? Granted I’m limited on the scope I can use. Signal to noise calculations using https://snrcalc.vercel.app/home Vlav has also produced a spreadsheet to do the calculations. Heart nebula Bortle 6, 5 hrs of 1 min subs, snr = 5.8 Bortle 6, 5 hrs of 2 min subs, snr = 5.9 Bortle 6, 5 hrs of 10 min subs, snr = 5.9 Bortle 4, 5 hrs of 1 min subs, snr = 10.9
  10. I have a EQM-35 Pro. I originally wanted a Star Adventurer but nobody had any stock and I picked the EQM 35 up second hand. I'm glad I've got goto capability and with plate solving finding targets is great. However the guiding results are variable, 1.94" RMS (0.5px) for the last session. Unguided I can get two minutes exposures and guided three. Probably being conservative there, or possibly not being critical enough. I've tried to tune but I'm rubbish at that sort of thing. Its moving more smoothly now but every so often I get big jumps (in the guiding graph), especially in Dec. I decided to get somebody to do some tuning so I'll see what that produces. I'm new to all this really so don't claim to have solid answers. The GEM28 seems to have bearings for the axis rather than the sliding surfaces the EQM35 has. Just for that reason I'd be tempted by it if I were buying new now.
  11. Looks good, I like it. I have one similar in total time with a 2600MC and an L-Enhance but at 360mm focal length. You have got much better colour and less noise than I have. I'm inspired to have another go at processing.
  12. I was debating between a zenitstar or a sigma/tamron 150-600 zoom, especially as I could use the zoom for wildlife as well. What pushed me towards the scope rather than a lens was seeing a comparison of image quality with the scope being better. I cant remember where it was but there is lots of choice on youtube. So I think its an upgrade to your lens but one you can take your time over. Getting a mount that can do goto and linking to a PC for automating positioning made things much simpler for me. A cooled camera will improve your images as well. So much gear we have to have!
  13. I like that (and the cropped version as well). Stars add to the image without overpowering.
  14. I quite like fewer stars, even if its less realistic and its your image after all.
  15. Thanks both, plenty of cloudy nights to update my flats!
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