Craig a

I sure am going round in circles! I really appreciate all your comments, but lying in bed thinking about things and my heart really is set on the 533, I could get that and the skywatcher 130pds and them two together would still be cheaper than buying the 071 or 168 on its own, so I’m seriously considering going that way, and I could always try it on the 10inch inch newt , if it doesn’t work on it it’s the 130pds to the rescue and it would be nice to also have a scope with a wider FOV to compliment the 1000mm larger scope, does that sound like a plan?

I don’t think I’m going to buy the 294 so you can see if it works properly 😆, They do seem abit hit and miss for my liking, the qhy168c seems like a better option I get the same fov as my dslr and puts me at 0.99 arc sec pp, better than the 533 and on par with the 294, but with the QE at around 50% on the 071 chip is that considered a good QE?

My scope is a 10inch 1000mm f4

Yes that could be an option, I would find it hard to go down to a smaller sensor if I did go with the 533 as I’m coming from a dslr, an 1100d which is ancient now in camera terms with a pretty poor QE of about 35% I think

To get to that 1.3 with my scope I would have to have a cam with over 6um pixels! I don’t know any reasonably price cooled cmos with pixels that big or am I wrong? The reason for thinking about the 533 is the low read noise and deep wells plus it’s nicely priced, being a new dad money is a big factor now and spending 1500-2000 on a new cam is a bitter pill to swallow when I’ve got a new baby, I have also looked at the asi294mc pro that would give me 0.96 arc sec per pixel, still not ideal but I really carnt afford to get a new scope aswell to match these new cmos with smaller pixels, sorry I should of mentioned the criteria in my first post, also I’ve heard people having a terrible time with uneven chip cooling on the 294 in the past, is that still something that is a problem or has that been fixed?

Ok that makes sense, I must of looked at it wrong I thought the 3 screws locked onto the 3 prongs that stick out from the camera interface

After I posted the latest update picture, I checked the veins and yes they were wonky I have now centralised them , to be honest I started from scratch again after this pic of it, will post up another pic of it tomorrow now I’ve sorted them wonky veins I’ve been at it for hours tonight and had enough 😂, will come back to it tomorrow with a fresh head and eyes

Ok I had another go at this after work, does this secondary look any better this time folks?

When I fitted the moonlight focuser I did mark the center point opposite the focuser and adjusted the focuser to point at the Mark opposite

Also I did change the focuser to a moon lite and as a result to get the secondary centred in the focuser I had to move the secondary up towards the top of the tube abit

Thank you all for having a look at it, I only use this for imaging so would like to be better, I do believe that a fast Newtonians secondary would look shifted away from the focuser and my phone may not of been rotated enough to get the veins perfectly vertical and horizontally, yes i can see now the secondary needs rotating abit more so I shall go back to it have another go, the secondary an these scopes are a pain to get right!

Thank you for your reply not worthless at all, my coma corrector needs 55mm of back focus and is m48 male thread, I’ve looked at the zwo OAG and with that I would just need a 20mm spacer but I’m not sure I like the way the camera adapter uses the 3 thumb screws to hold the cam in the OAG surely that’s asking for trouble if it’s not a screw fit

After reading various threads regarding guiding a long fl Newtonian and OAG is the best way to go and to be honest I could do with shedding the weight of the guidescope and rings from my rig, my imaging scope is a skywatcher Quattro 10cf with a fl of 1000mm and I’m hoping to buy an asi533 Mc pro in a couple of weeks but I’ve looked around for OAG and there’s tons to choose from, please bear in mind I have to use a coma corrector with M48 thread, would the skywatcher OAG be a good choice? Also would the OAG fit directly to the coma corrector? Or does it have to be fitted to the camera and add spacers between the OAG and coma corrector? My guide cam is the Orion star shoot, Coming from using guidescope it’s abit confusing for me

I’m in dire need of a new cooled camera, I’ve been using a modded canon 1100d for a few years now but I want a new cmos, my main interest is galaxys the more obscure the better, I’ve looked at the asi533 but with my 1000mm fl newt it gives me a pixel scale of around 0.77 arc sec now I know the general rule is go between 1-2 arc sec, my question is is it achievable to image at below 1 arc sec or would I be fighting a loosing battle? I don’t want to spend the money on a new camera to be totally dissapointed

After reading a topic in the imaging tips and tricks about using a phone with an adapter to collimate I had a go at it myself, this is my skywatcher f4 newt after I did it, now I’ve always had issues collimating it as each time I take the Cheshire out and reinsert it it’s always different so I had ago with the phone, how does the collimation look to all you experienced collimators? I know the real test is under the stars but the weather has taken a turn for the worse in Uk now so not sure when I can test it, does this look good, ok or poor?

I’ve just had ago at doing this the phones focus wasn’t as sharp as I would of liked but I managed, just need a clear night now to check the stars in the corners 🤞

Love them thunder clouds, we had a good show last night can you imagine the energy released this week all over the Uk, some of the thunder we had last night was so loud it shook the lights on the ceiling

Thank you for checking that out for me

My guide cam is the Orion autoguider and my main cam is a cannon 1100d,

It’s a great idea this, I’ve downloaded an app on iPhone and corresponding app on my laptop that turns iPhone into webcam using usb from iPhone to lappy no WiFi connection needed I’m gonna give this ago once my telescope phone mount arrives

Hello everyone, I have a skywatcher evoguide 50mm and would like to use that instead of my Orion st80 as I’m trying to keep abit of weight down and also make my imaging rig abit less tall I have fitted it using guide scope rings bolted down to a losmandy plate on top of my scope now that is done I rebalanced and that has pulled the counterweights closer to the mount which I good news, but my scope is a skywatcher Quattro 10cf with a fl of 1000mm so my question is, is the evoguide capable of guiding my 1000mm scope with the evoguide being only 242mm fl?

I belt modded my neq6 about 6 months ago, best thing I did with this mount, smooth slewing, more responsive less noisy and less backlash, well worth doing

Cracking image that excellent detail and perfectly balanced

That’s superb, this is on my to do list once the moon has gone away

Has anybody else had an issue with gradient xterminator leaving a darker area around an object? More so with galaxys and globular clusters not so much an issue with open clusters and large nebula, even when I just select the background with magic wand in ps I’m left with a dark area around the main attraction, my last galaxy has this issue the darker area surrounding m63 is darker than the rest of the background