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Craig a

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Everything posted by Craig a

  1. Holy smokes Peter, that’s the best image of this area I’ve ever seen, that bit of pinky blue really gives the image a little extra against the dusty areas, superb
  2. I would think it needs to totally obscure the clips, when I researched this everyone who installed one on their Newtonian totally covered the clips, not sure how much it affects the f ratio of the scope but I Carnt be much my clips only just protruded onto the mirror slightly, I ended up siliconing my mirror to its cell and cut the prongs off the clips and used the rest of the clip assembly to put the mask on, I noticed collimation would change slightly depending on where the scope was pointing, siliconing the mirror to its cell should help it keep its collimation no matter where it’s pointed now
  3. Here you go https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p12358_Wega-Primary-Mirror-Baffle-for-Skywatcher-Newtonian-130PDS.html
  4. Sorted, mask arrived today and I’ve painted it Matt black and installed
  5. On a warm summers day under a dark cover it will get very warm very fast, that’s why I chose the telegizmos because it’s almost white
  6. I use a telegizmos 365 cover, it’s very good, I use rechargeable silica dehumidifiers under the cover as extra protection it’s cream coloured to reflect the suns heat so the mount doesn’t get too warm under there melting the grease, it’s also foil lined to reflect the suns radiation, I use the skywatcher pillar mount to the cover is tight around the central column when I’ve tied it hence the silica dehumidifiers in there
  7. I can vouch for FLO flocking material I did my skywatcher 10 inch f4 newt about 5 years ago and that lived permanently mounted outside under a cover for months at a time seeing hot and cold weather and the material never budged, it’s good stuff
  8. To be honest I’ve always doubted not having the clip touching the mirror as the scope moves through the sky collimation would change, on my 130pds I’ve recently siliconed the mirror to its cell well not silicone but grip bond pro, it’s an adhesive but stays abit flexible for thermal expansion, I put the clips back in but not touching the mirror as a fail safe but to be honest grip bond pro shouldn’t fail, the mirror is firmly in its place, I used penny’s as spacers between the mirror and cell and took them out after it was cured, I’ve read arguments for and against this Meathod but the mirror will not move in its cell now so I’m happy
  9. The zwo OAG is a good choice, set it up during daytime on a distant object if you can see one then do final tweaks under the stars
  10. After using a guidescope with a mirrored telescope I’m my case a Newtonian, I switched to OAG and came to the conclusion that all mirrored telescopes should use OAG’s to eliminate differential flexure, my images changed immediately when going over to OAG
  11. As I don’t have access to a 3D printer I looked at ts service and you were correct I ordered one from there for my 130pds should be here in a few days
  12. Interesting that is because I was getting some horrid circle gradients using an led tracing pad on my 10 inch f4 Newtonian with the pad laying straight ontop of the scopes aperture even with a t shirt it must of still been too bright even though the scope was flocked and has baffles the light still must of been bouncing around in there
  13. I ditto what tomato said, I did the exact same thing when setting up my zwo OAG, pain to setup but one done it shouldn’t need doing again
  14. So is it just the very edge of the mirror coating that is the offending area? Just wondering if somthing can be done to it without using a mask and shrinking the diameter of the mirror slightly?
  15. Yes that helps loads thanks, I will have ago at making a mask too, is it critical to get the masks inner edge perfect?
  16. We’re not on the same wavelength here I don’t think I’m not on about the bright diffraction from the mirrors edge but the dark ghost pattern off the clips is what I want rid of
  17. and where’s the fun of tinkering with one of them
  18. That’s what I mean the scatter/diffraction from the mirror clips causing the pattern on brighter stars, I’m not a fan of it and looking for a way of getting rid without making a mask to cover the whole perimeter of the primary covering the clips
  19. Thank you for your reply, any special silicone I need to use? High modulus, low modulus? I was thinking of aquarium silicone as it’s designed for glass?
  20. Hi all I’ve seen people making masks to cover the mirror clips of Newtonians to eliminate the shadow they cast on brighter stars, but I’ve also seen people totally do away with them and silicone the mirror onto the mirror cell, I was thinking of doing the same to my 130pds using the silicone method to secure the mirror doing away with the clip. Has anybody done this to their 130pds and how secure is the mirror when the silicone is cured? Does this affect the mirror in any way?
  21. Glad you got it sorted, it’s a good start , you can always add more data to it as the autumn and winter draws on
  22. Yes you go into raw/fits digital development process settings, then in the fits tab check the little box at the top then select generic rggb in the camera selection, that should sort it don’t worry about any colour cast when it’s done that is sorted out in post processing
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