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retret66

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Everything posted by retret66

  1. This is how it would look if we can travel outside our milkyway 😜
  2. I combined all my subs into one. 400mm Canons: https://flic.kr/p/2hRgHPb 714mm Stellarvues: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 I use "GradientMergeMosaic tool" RED = 291 x 5min GREEN = 278 x 5min BLUE = 252 x 5min 53hrs on the Stellarvues 15hrs on the Canons Total Integration Time: 68hrs
  3. For those who want remote focuser capability(manual) up to 300ft on any telephoto lens, I rigged it with Nucleus Tilta Nano. This is a big help during sub freezing temperature for indoor focussing.
  4. I recently park my 102mm refractors and switch to Canon telephoto's for more wider shot at 400mm focal length. My first object this year for this configuration is the horsehead nebula, still need more data since I only see this subject after midnight just above the tree branches. I was able to pull 7hrs of data. Equipments: Main Imaging Lenses: 1x Canon 400mm F4 DO II 1x Canon 200mm F2 w/2x TC III 1x Canon 400mm F5.6 Imaging Camera: 3x ZWO1600MM Mono Cooled With Optolong RGB L-Pro filters Remote Focuser: Nucleus Tilta Nano Guide Scope: Orion CT80 Guide Camera: Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2 Mount: Celestron CGX Dew Heater: Thousand Oaks Optical 4-Channel Dew Heater Controller Payload: 46lbs
  5. This one @ 82% moon.. The ghost of Casseiopeia, IC 59. Taken 11/16 2019 bortle 6/7. 7hrs of imaging time..
  6. thanks but I know this just one click in pixinsight as color calibration. Also in astrobin has a histogram. I just choose to do more red as that is my taste.
  7. Date Taken: 11/03/2019 135x5min in SHO = 11.25Hrs Gear Used: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7Not much SII nebulosity but I was able to bring them out. Processed in Pixinsight..
  8. Sh2-157 a.k.a The Lobster Claw Nebula. 24Hrs of data on a single clear night. Date Taken: 11/05/2019 289x5min subs in SHO Telescope Info: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7
  9. I use 3 cameras simultaneously and yes fall season brings more dark skies 😃
  10. Telescope info: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 Dates Taken: 10/24 & 10/25 Exposures: Ha = 65 x 600sec SII = 64 x 600sec OIII = 64 x 600sec Total integration time = 32Hrs Processed in Pixinsight, I combined all subs into one for Luminance.
  11. yes but it is not as good on a bortle 6 sky, so it will be a waste of time, I rather have ha detail than lum
  12. Telescope info: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 Dates Taken: 10/24 & 10/25 Exposures: Ha = 65 x 600sec SII = 64 x 600sec OIII = 64 x 600 Total integration time = 32Hrs Processed in Pixinsight, I combined all subs into one for Luminance.
  13. M33 Taken 10/04 & 10/18 2019, 23.5hrs integration time. Ha/SII/RGB
  14. I use pixinsight and I use colormask for each color channel, this will not touch your stars, you can adjust each color channel to whatever color you like and your stars remains the same..
  15. If you dont select it manually, the issue arise when one camera briefly disconnects, this is where it mess up because the software will find the wrong one and will cause a conflict
  16. This is where you select(see arrow), do not select just from the drop down. Use ascom on all of them, dont mix with native.
  17. I use 3 asi1600mm at the same time. I use ascom on all of them. All you have to do is select ascom and pick the correct "ID", each one has a unique ID, Do not let your imaging software pick the camera for you or do not pick from the selection while in ascom, click properties and select the camera there. Heck I can use 10 ASI cameras at the same time and will not have an issue
  18. I was using the APT to indigosky bridge but indigosky can work on its own via web ui
  19. ASIair is an open source app customized for ZWO. You can use Indigosky and APT then save $100 in the process by buying RPi 3B+. This way you can use any camera and accessories that you like. http://www.indigo-astronomy.org Here is a quick demo sort of tutorial .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bys-1w0hEnw
  20. It might be but I don't want to assume without proper instructions. Remember, I know nothing about these groups and their rules. The fact that they do not put time to manage their new membership sign in already gives me an impression of what kind of group they are. I don't want to go there and find out.
  21. I attempted to join our local group(very big group, they have major manufacturer gather on this place once a year) last year when I was starting to learn astrophotography and to work my telescope. I paid for a 1 yr family subscription via paypal so my wife and son can join in. Waited for the next instructions on what to do after becoming a paid member. after couple of weeks, no reply or an email about my membership so I sent them an email if I am getting some sort of an ID or something, waited for few weeks and nothing. I gave up and just went to youtube and forums and do it myself..After about a year when my subscription expired, I started to get their email newsletter about star parties etc, so I replied about the issue. Someone replied back saying the person that handles this membership stuff was sick blah blah blah. So, he offered me a free renewal which is nice but the fact that the times when I needed some assistance to gain knowledge was no longer needed so I said consider my membership as a donation. .
  22. it is an unusual setup because DSLR sensor usually only need LP or some sort of high contrast filter unlike the mono cameras. As I understand it the sensor to flange distance is 44mm and you only have 16mm to play with to your reducer. The EOS-M series however has only 18mm so you probably have more room to play with.
  23. If you are planning for viewing only, a good dobsonian is good, you can dismantle it and take it with you to a dark place. If you want to go with astrophotography, then that is usually the wrong question to ask, you should buy a good EQ mount before the telescope..
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