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bryand

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About bryand

  • Rank
    Vacuum

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  • Location
    Loughborough, England
  1. Why are you modifying a DSLR at all? The one thing you don't use is the Reflex ability of the camera - you are not using the through-the-lens viewfinder. You have a telescope for that. If you use a mirrorless camera, you can get equivalent functionality with less weight and you can go for a full spectrum conversion and then fit a clip-in filter to protect the sensor.
  2. If you go for the William Optics binoviewer, it is available with a pair of WO 20 mm eyepieces which are really good. I would give up on trying to match existing OEM eyepieces.
  3. To respond to the OP's question: I have a pair of WO binoviewers which I now use more than my mono eyepieces. I use the WO 20 mm eyepieces, the WO 1.6X and 2.0X Barlows, and I have a pair of Pentax XF 12mm eyepieces which have a very flat field and are good for close-in work. I have a rafcamera 26mm -> T2 adaptor that allows me to use a 2" nosepiece, for compatibility with my other kit. Binos work for me: I can split doubles with the binos that I can't with any of my (expensive) mono eyepieces, and I can view for longer without tiring my eyes. That's what makes them the ocular of choice for me.
  4. I sometimes use Sky Safari on my iPad to control my Evolution 9.25. It works well, but if you move the tablet too far away from the scope, it drops the connection and the alignment goes to pot when you re-connect. I now put the iPad in a map case and hang it round my neck so it's always to hand and not too far from the scope.
  5. I've just gone back to using my StarSense after the midsummer break (when it couldn't find enough stars). I often use a manual align, where you tell it where to look for stars - this avoids obstacles and speeds up the alignment process. Used like this, I find it is quicker and more accurate than a finderscope alignment.
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