retret66

Telescope: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 Taken: July 2020 13Hrs Imaging time... SHO 3nm filters used..

I decided to do this 6-panel mosaic of the cygnus loop. I put .8x reducer on my scope to bring it down to f5.6. So far I only have the panel #2 in color, each panel has about 1hr of Ha x 3. Then one hour of the SII and OIII(2x) for color. So when I am done I will probably end up like 12Hrs of imaging time. The full JPG resolution for the cygnus loop is on my flickr: Telescope Info: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 Panel #2:

what I mean by detail is two different things, as stated clearly here..

I have seen filters which capture some slight surface details but it will never be as good as dedicated Ha scope

I got mine with the B1200 before the pandemic.. Most telescope stores are running out of stock probably due to factories not getting parts...

Definitely a bad copy and have that replaced. IT could be a factory defect where they slap in a ED80 ring on a ED120. There are three versions of these. ED80,ED100 and ED120.. The only logical explanation is what you have could be for ED120.

I am always a DSO shooter but since there is not much out there from my location I tried planets for the first time. I use an RC10 Truss scope. Jupiter and Saturn is south which is pretty low at 30degrees max. I did not use any filter and I am going to try the Baader 685 next. Camera is ZWO ASI385 Cooled. Seeing was terrible plus NY City is just below it. I tried with powermate 4X and it is not possible at all, it is too soft. So I just use none. This one without any filter and multiplier.. 2032mm focal length This one with powermate..too soft for my taste :D...

Telescope: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 35Hrs of total integrtation in HaRGB. I plan to just rack up on Luminance maybe 20hrs of data and see if it improves more but I think it is pretty good.

I am now a believer of inverted image, It just look 3D to me.. The non-inverted as my original post looks flat for some reason..

I use Lunt 60mm DS and ZWO ASI174MM + 2.5X powermate. Image taken 06/19/2020

LOL, I will just leave it in the porch all year long just outside that window. I cover it with large plastic bag and I fill my wife's stocking with crystal cat litter then I put a heatrod then cover a 2nd layer using tractor mower cover. There is very low humidity inside and this works already on my other scope. I did time myself setting this up and it only takes less than 30min since I dont star align, just plain polar alignment.

Out of the box, few I dont like already. The saddle needs an allen wrench to tighten because I dont trust it with my tiny fingers. USB2 and power management is useless to my setup since I dont think I can find a cable that can take 3 cooled camera and 3 dew heaters. This will carry my tri-scope + solar. I like the CEM70 but it is still scary to buy when it is new and if there is a major flaw it is going to be a pain to return and still no info when it comes out. I can't test now because I need 3 21lb CW since I will be putting in 59lbs of payload. We shall see..

I am not sure if anyone can answer without details. First we need what camera and reducer backfocus. Make sure you have the correct distance. If it is still look pinched, try to loosen the objective and your reducer glass..Or just blast your anti dew heater.. I all are done correctly and you still not seeing round stars then call WO

My sky is about Bortle 6/7 and I have enough data from 714mm(46hrs) and 400mm(21hrs). I was trying to merge the two but end up with a hard lines if I use the 400mm wide for reference using mosaic(even though it is not) but rather merge the 714mm frame retaining the data using average. So I tried again and was able to successfully merge the two without any issue but trial and error. I first stacked both RGB channels then make a synthetic luminance and just work on the luminance channels since I could care less about color so no need. I did the mosaic workflow as usual and use gradient merge mosaic after, this is where the settings vary until I got to where it were merge without pinched stars using overlay. Because I abandoned my canon tri-scope setup, I will make a wide shot using 2-panel mosaic using 3x 3nm Ha on a 714mm tri-scope. For now, this is my final image.. I use Pixinsight for this.. Canon Setup: https://flic.kr/p/2hRgHPb 714mm Setup: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7

So I decided to get two cameras for galaxies, one for color and the other for Luminance. I am truly impressed by ASI071MC-Pro. With just two hours of color I was able to get good enough to add to my 9.5hrs luminance taken with the ASI1600MM. This is the first light of my ASI071MC. I did not use any LP and I have bortle 6/7 skies. Also attached is an uncalibrated 2min sub of the M51 taken with ASI071MC. Telescope: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfTwP Filters: Astrodon Gen2 Luminance

This one was taken last October 2019 but my processing skills has been improving little by little. There is no luminance channels but I combined all the channels into one and made that luminance.. A total of 36hrs of exposures but I forgot to include the SII so about 31hrs only.

I was on the same boat when I started like you, also bought the Atik horizon hoping it is easier with color but I was wrong. Not only that Atik horizon has major issues where I had to battle for Atik based in UK to return it and they replaced it but sold it. Color has less resolution, because of the bayer matrix RGGB so one pixel is divided into 4. While mono, you get 1:1 per pixel so the resulting imaged combined with other color filter is much better and more sensitive. You can use the color for planetary and Comets.. But if you are starting, go with mono now.

Seems like my new location is good, although it is only 4miles from my original house. This place has a better wide sky view..I use TPO 10" RC Truss with .8x reducer at F6.3.

Thanks, I might try to remove the protecting glass on these camera just to know if this also affects the microlensing but definitely the distance will make a big difference. If this does not happen using Luminance filter, then I could just get luminance shots and apply it

This one was taken at the same time, one is stellarvue 102mm Access and the other is Stellarvue Raptor Triplet. I think the contrast on the triplet makes the difference over the doublet which has more defined microlensing. Camera: ZWO 1600mm cooled Filter: Chroma 3nm Ha Astrodon 3nm Ha vs Chroma 3nm Ha on a doublet: This comparison is for filter distance to the sensor, which will make a difference, the closer your filter to the sensor the less microlensing you going to get. I believe due to the reflection on the filter and the protective glass.

Telescope: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 Total exposure time: 39hrs. A combination of 5min and 10min per exposure of 356 stacked images. I use 3nm Astrodon filters in SII/Ha and OIII. Exposures: Ha = 58 x 600s / 85 x 300s SII = 20 x 600s / 82 x 300s OIII = 33 x 600s / 78 x 300s Processed in Pixinsight..

I use ADM on all my tri-scope setup. There is no flex on this one. The middle is fixed, both sides are adjustable via Max-HD pointing saddle. I use APT for my imaging software. I use a non powered USB hub to connect all devices and then thru a single 16ft USB3 cable to one laptop. The middle scope is used for dithering, the other two will just wait when the middle finish dithering and repeat.. Advantage of having 3 is speed and cost by eliminating EFW and extra filters.

Last year, I use my Canon 400mm tri-imager and for 9hrs I got a very nice image. I thought it was the best I can do. This year I use my 102mm refractor tri-imager and decided to make a 4-pane mosaic in a bout the same imaging time or less. I manage to get 6hrs (1.5hrs / panel). I then compare the result from last year which was 9hrs from Canon..From now on, even if I can get 1hr of each panel I think it will beat a single fram stacked image. I should consider that last year I am new to pixinsight.. Refractor: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 6Hrs Total Imaging time. Last year .Canon: https://flic.kr/p/2hRgHPb 9hrs Total imaging time

Date Taken: 12-20-2019 Telescope Info: https://flic.kr/p/2gAfKn7 Ha = 71x300s S2 = 71x300s OIII = 72x300s

I leave mine out and just take the scope indoor. I release the clutch and leave the weights attached. I then add the gun safe warmer 18” rod running like 12watts of power. I then murdered my wifey’s stocking and put crystal cat litter and hang it inside. Then I cover it with an oversize garbage bag with some holes on it then cover it again with a lawn mower cover. Inside is very dry no matter what temperature is outside.