StarDodger

Hmmm, don’t know about that.. 🤔

I didn’t think that EQMOD worked over USB, but only via the handset port... but of course I may be wrong

I think this is an excellent image, and well processed... I think it could be stretched a bit more as the background is very black, but not a criticism at all... :)👍

Are the rings manufactured by skywatcher, as I had some from overseas once with a similar problem, they were about 2mm out of spec, I was trying to save money, and as we know that does not alway work, I ended up buying a popular named brand rings in the end, so in fact ended up wasting money...So lesson learned for me.. 👍

But should you really need to on a new item, it seems to me that at at the prices of these scopes, everything should fit properly right off the bat, without the need for faffing about with bits of rubber of cork... just my opinion..

Having your dew shield unbalance it, is not that bad, in fact a little bias in both directions may help...

The EQ6 native mount has backlash in three places, two of them were between gears that you have now replaced with the belt drive, but one still remains that is between the worm and main crown gear, this will always have some play, as it the way they work and it’s impossible to remove it all, but it won’t be a few MM as mentioned, it should only be at most .5mm if adjusted well...

Leave them all at default, and you won’t go far wrong..

Sorry, missed that, my bad.. 😀😀

NO, there is not, please read my last post... 😀

@Peje you said it was an easy fix when the pulley was rubbing against the side of the case.... There is no way to fix that, other than replacing that cover BEFORE you put the lock ring back on, or you will have major issues, it has to be done in the correct order...

Hold on a minute, you have it a bit wrong here you guys.... There is a black screw cap on both sides of the worm shaft, BUT only one lock screw on one side that is correct, the black cap on the other side should stay in place, as it acts as the correct spacer for the bearing, it keeps the bearing in the correct position so the pulley does not foul the case....that is how it works, if you remove that black cover the pulley and shaft will slide over and foul the side of the cast... 😮

I did mention this to you to try earlier in this thread... 🤔😀

Well, I would not like to hazard a guess now, as I was sure it was the worm pulley....but if that is solid, and the motor pulley is impossible to remove, so also solid, and the belt tight....and the worm is properly engaged, then yes, re build and see what happens, it’s all you can do...

Hmmmm, that is odd, I am stumped too... 🤔

Sequator is an excellent stacking programme, and easier and better than DSS, IMHO.. https://sites.google.com/site/sequatorglobal/download And APP on the renters license for an all in one solution, it’s stacking is the best out there... 👍

Please keep us posted on how you get on...I have a project of my own, I have bought an EQ8 in mint condition just three years old for a steal of a price so could not resist, but it has the dreaded DEC backlash that has haunted these mounts, (only a bit mind) so I have to make some minor adjustments and am just plucking up the courage to have a go... 😮 so just recently sold my belt modded EQ6

No, for sure, give it a good once over while you have it apart...hope you get it sorted...

Hmmm, my motors had a flat on there shaft...

It may not have been a perfectly machined fit as some motor shafts can vary slightly, especially older mounts, so it was probably forced on a little in the first place... edit, also what he said above...

The Shaft on the motor does have a good flat already on it, so that should be good as long as at least one screw is against that...it the other end that will be the issue..you should be able to see the flat side if you look in the end then you will know if the tight screw is against it or not, I guess that’s why he left the other screw loose as it does nothing..

Well it that one on the worm shaft that we are indicating is the culprit, not the one on the motor...as you show..

I did but only on the motor end, there was already one on the other end..

This is how mine looks with the extra weight, also if you can slide the main weight up the shaft as close to the head as possible but you will need more weight, it helps as there is data to prove that it’s better for the motors as it uses less inertia to move and so improves guiding and tracking...

I just don’t get why you need to add a threaded bar onto the counterweight side like that, it’s much easier to just balance the scope end and add weight to the side of the scope that needs it to achieve balance and then slide main weight down a bit to counter it, there is no need whatsoever to add that bar with washers to the counterweight....it’s pointless and unnecessary....