Jump to content



  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Petrol

  1. I also played safe and went for the F2. It's a mindfield out there
  2. Thanks to Olly for pointing me in the direction of this thread. Thanks also to everyone on here, it made setting this up easy.
  3. What are those lens rings if you don't mind me asking? They look much better than 3d printed. Pete
  4. I'm really impressed with this lens and the images posted. F2 has big appeal to me in my light polluted back garden. I'm building a mobile rig to take in my motorhome too so it looks like a winner. Where is the best place to get one from? I have a ZWO camera, where is the best place to buy the adapter? Are the 3d printed rings the best option to mount it? Pete
  5. Thanks for sharing this link. It's a fascinating piece of history. I went there many many years ago and it was an awesome place
  6. Same for me. I tried to do some imaging last night but the seeing was very poor. It was a bit better tonight but it doesn't really get dark this time of year in the UK. I'm enjoying the fantastic weather but I'm sure it won't last long. Soon be winter and better observing / imaging
  7. That's a great image. It was my first target when I built my roll off shed. As you say, it's faint and light pollution is a problem, as is the lack of dark skies this time of year. I would be very happy with that!
  8. Thank you for your reply. 1. I always had green / blue cast on my images when using my IDAS LPF. It was a lot of processing to get rid of it. I've taken it out now so I'll se how it goes. I have a UHC Nebula filter but never tried it. 2. Thanks, that one was easy. I'll order them along with a controller 3. I'm waiting for a gap in the clouds to test the guiding. Last time I used everything was on PHD1 and Win XP! I have upgraded the firmware in the handset and everythings seems good so far. The real test is when guiding starts and you can't simulate that. I need stars. EQMOD is no doubt the way to go for me, I'm trying to pick up where I left off. Oh and yes I'll test everything at home before I set off. 4. WO 72 is looking good then. Thanks. I have taken everything on board, thank you KP82 Pete
  9. Its been a few years since I did any imaging but now I have more time so I'm going to start up again. Frustrated by light pollution, I now have a motorhome and plan to travel to darker skies. This is the kit I have Skywatcher EQ5 goto mount Skywatcher explorer 200P with a Skywatcher Startravel 80 guidescope WO Megrez 72FD With a WO Zenithstar 66 SD guidescope QHY5 Guide cam Atik 314L Colour ZWO ASI294MC Pro which I've recently bought New laptop to run it all The plan is to start with the WO scopes because they are easier to handle The questions.... 1. I always used an IDAS light pollution filter at home. I'm guessing this won't be needed anymore but considering Sodium vapour street lights have more or less been relaced with 56K led's here in the UK, is it totally useless now? 2. I'm looking at buying some dew heaters. 3 of my scopes are about 4" diameter. Looking at FLO's website they say the Lynx Astro 40cm Dew Heater Strap for 4" Telescopes. Is that 4" diameter? 3. What ascom driver should I be using for the EQ5 mount. I use the synscan handset to do a 3 star align, then use PHD2 to guide. The USB connection goes from the PC, through a usb to 9 pin adapter, then into the synscan handset. I only had one chance at trying it and had problems, not because off connetions. Com port was assigned but guiding was erratic. I thought it might have been the wrong ascom driver. 4. I appreciate my scopes are old but would I get better results if I upgraded? Thanks for looking. It's great to come back to this awesome hobby after such a long time. Any advice is welcome Pete
  10. Those drivers have sorted it. Thank you very much Pete
  11. Thanks. I'll try them when I get home. I'm on the road this week looking for dark site campsites
  12. I'm building a mobile imaging rig to take to darks skies in my motorhome. I have a QHY5 which would be an ideal guide cam because it's small and light. It served me well back in the days of Windows XP, does anyone know if there are any updated drivers available? I've looked but can't find any. Thanks for looking Pete
  13. Thanks for the feedback everyone Whilst processing is subjective, I think I may have gone overboard a bit on this one! Guess I don’t know when to stop The LP is pretty bad here, particularly to my south. I tried a few filters but they didn’t seem to do much. Then I bought Steve’s book and on his recommendation, bought a Hutech Idas which did the trick for me. Something you know very little about Olly, you lucky chap! One of my ambitions in life is to see the Milky Way. It’s dissapointing that such a wonder of nature is taken away from many Again thanks for the comments and clear skies! Pete
  14. It's been 2 months since I had clear skies! SW 200P Atik 314L+ OSC 20 lights @ 300s Darks Flats Guided on EQ6 Thanks for looking Pete
  15. Nice gates! Impressive craftsmanship As for pouring concrete / laying bricks – Bricks have frogs (that’s the hole / recess in them) This allows the mortar to key and prevents lateral movement. Allowing the mortar to dry and laying courses on top does not weaken the structure. Pouring a pier in two sessions does weaken it mainly because the first pour is left flat; it just flows out with gravity. The second pour has little to key to From my understanding the best budget pier is concrete in a plastic tube with rebar. I also used a scaffolding pole in mine. Since this is a combination of plastic / steel / concrete, it offers the best solution. Composite construction is often the strongest. I like the brick pier a lot. Blends in to the garden, easy and not expensive to build. Also not a nightmare to get rid of if you move. Anything is better than a tripod and personally, I can’t see the brick edges being a problem. Good job
  16. Pics are now back up of the finished job
  17. Thank you for your replies Derek, the increase in imaging time is significant. Rather than thinking, “better pack up now because it’s going to take me ages to unplug and lug the gear in” I can relax knowing that it’s a breeze to pack up. The other thing is, I rolled the cover off the other night and got only 3 subs before the clouds rolled in. No big deal, I parked the scope and packed up in no time at all. Olly, thanks for the comments. With the processing, I used to use curves for the initial stretch but now use levels. I only use curves for bringing out specific areas of the image and it helps prevent highlights blowing out. Fitted gym mat to the floor Also fitted some spare track to stick on the draught excluder This piece of laminate flooring provides the seal. Also note the shoot bolts, this will prevent the shed buckling in very high winds or if ever there’s a significant amount of snow on it Cut some foam to make some shelves for accessories I have also painted the inside of the shed with a 1:10 dilution of PVA glue. This is to help reduce dust off the timber and polystyrene Thanks for looking Pete
  18. First light, Iris Nebula. All comments welcome 200P Atik 314L+ Colour ST 80 / QYH5 / PHD Guided 36 Lights @ 300s 20 Darks Flats with EL panel Also stained the roll off
  19. No it's not sealed. Since the DPC / timber joist is covered by the obsy, it won't get wet from above. My concern in your case was quite a bit of DPC sticking out and water running along the DPC and into the joist. The purpose of a DPC is to stop moisture rising from the ground. Bit of theory that might shed some light on it. Timber only rots when the water stagnates. If you throw a piece of wood into the sea it won't rot. Drive a wooden stake into the ground and it will. Just try to keep the load bearing timbers dry Tanalised timber makes a huge difference though and if you are doing what others have, you will be OK. Hope that helped Best, Pete
  20. Chris, that's one one tall pier! Are you imaging or observing?
  21. Hi Chris, Great progress so far. I hope you don't mind me saying that if I were you, I would cut back the excess DPC between the pad stones and the joists. If the DPC overhangs the obsy, water will wick up the joists and they will rot. Preservative is great but timber cannot stand being wet for long. Whilst my roll off is tiny compared to your project, the same principles apply. This is how I fitted my DPC between the joists and the pad stones. Just a minor point but a few minutes trimming back now could save you problems later. Regards, Pete
  22. It's all red, white and blue Need I say anymore? Sorry spaceboy I didn't answer your question about the track. The exposed part of it is removable so I can protect it from the elements. A bonus is that it looks like a regular shed
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.