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Panda Alvin

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About Panda Alvin

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  1. Just saw this announcement dated yesterday on the Takahashi website. There are pictures in there but I won't link them here. To save everyone doing a google translate, it states: "We will release an extension hood for FS-60CB that has the same white color as the lens barrel. The extension hood weighs about 420g, so it not only prevents stray light but also functions as a counterweight. FS-60CB is a short aperture telescope with a small aperture, which makes the camera side heavy and difficult to balance." I've always planned on getting a mini tak in the future, and this news came somewhat at a surprise to me. The weight balance I can understand, but stray light is a new one for me. For those with the scope, do you think it may help with visual / photo, or just a fancy add on ? I can imagine the 60Q is just about to get slightly longer though
  2. Actually had the sky meter for about 2 weeks now, but I received the Vixen 2x42 today. I think they will go well together - cant wait to test the binos under proper conditions. Now all I need is a comfy deck chair maybe...
  3. I've gone way over the top boxing with my 5" beginner scope, as I like everything neat in one place and ready for a grab and go. Package consist of - ROC Aluminium flight case as the shell - 3 levels of pluck foam, base foam and an egg foam from a MAX 430 case, which happens to had the same width & length internal dimension The case fits hand baggage allowance for international carriers like British Airways, but unfortunately a wheel or trolley handle too big for regional airlines like EasyJet and Flybe. I also know its not quite the same with your 130PDS, (I assume the OTA is around 60cm) which will probably breaks all baggage size allowance unless you split the primary like Dirk suggested. The box holds the OTA, diagonal, zoom, barlow and RDF, leaving only the mount and a small manfrotto tripod to carry in another bag.
  4. Welcome Tony, nice scope you got there ! Just to let you know, there is a SGL club for Dorset should you be interested. The guys meet up once in a while to stargaze, unfortunately slightly too far for me half of the time as I am based near Southampton.
  5. Hello Adam, Eastleigh here. Nice scope you got there, hope you get many good views out of it.
  6. If you do go for the M12 bolt option, I would suggest buying the "coach" variant with a short thread, and between 200mm - 300mm in length. This is because the socket eats almost 30mm of the bar and the mount battery compartment blocks another 90mm. As for counterweight, TS do sell one that fits on the 12mm rod. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p10277_TS-Optics-Counterweight-1-kg-for-counterweight-rod-with-10-12-mm-diameter.html I own one and it works OK, but the quality I got from them was below average in my opinion (maybe I am just picky).
  7. Looks somewhat like a slug trail... maybe a gastropod took advantage while you were out there, and wanted the front seat of the telescope ? Ok... ill see myself out.
  8. Probably not going to make this as I have an early Saturday morning Just in case I do - where is this Creech Car Park ?
  9. Sorry not much going to of help here - The only thing I could see is lack of central strut on your tripod / mount. Your long tak would probably hit the tripod legs when angled. You could purchase a SW AZ extension tube but I personally don't like it as it could become a fiddle (if the screw between mount - extension is loose).
  10. I think budget will be very important in this case. There are used APS-C DSLRs that starts from £20, up to £3,000 new for Full Frame format on the market. For wide angle shooting getting a DSLR is only half the battle as well. You need to consider what lens you want on top of that. There is no point getting a very good lens with a sub par DSLR and vice versa. Faster lens dedicated for AP can also cost £££, again ranging from £20 - £1,500. When I started out the hobby 6 months ago and looking for cameras, I found the best site was the list provided by wikipedia which offered base facts. I then picked a few within my reasonable price range, and looked at the reviews individually. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Canon_EOS_digital_cameras https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Nikon_DSLR_cameras It may take a while to get around a bunch of numbers but it becomes more easier to understand the more you research into it. For deciding where to start, whilst the number of megapixel isn't always the rule of law, I would suggest looking no lower than 15MP if you want quality night photos. You may also want to pick one that can shoot videos if you want to capture planets via a telescope. Articulated screen is optional but its nice to have if you camera ends up pointing at or near zenith (your neck will really thank you for it). As for camera lens, I found https://www.the-digital-picture.com/ to be a good site to base / start my research. Its got detailed reviews on most of the lenses out there, and what I love about it is that it sometimes offers a table which shows similar lens out there with brief comparison. As for what I have, I brought a Canon 550D from https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/, and took a gamble on ebay and brought a Tokina 11mm - 20mm lens. It costed around £450 in total but I enjoyed every penny spent on it. You can see some of my time laps results below if you want to judge on the quality. It has also been edited through Lightroom just to bear that in mind.
  11. Tom Scott had made a video about these sound mirrors 5 months ago, I found it an interesting watch if anyone is intrigued. If I remeber correctly, his team demonstrated by putting a microphone in the middle of the dish in Romney marsh, which picked up birds tweeting across the lake. They also flown a drone nearby (with permission from the local airport) to demonstrate what it would be like picking an aircraft miles off the coast back in the day.
  12. New camera mount arrived today. Putting it on a 24 hours test spin at the moment. Cant wait to do some lovely time-lapses and exposures with this
  13. There are no focal reducers dedicated for Maks that I am aware of. Their internal baffle restrictions (27mm field stop) makes less suitable for adapting wide field. If you really need one, what you probably want to look for is a 1.25" low cost FR that screws onto the bottom your eyepiece. Eg something like this - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/astro-essentials-05x-1-25-focal-reducer.html You will often see 0.63x Meade / Celestron SCT FRs floating around but as name suggests its for SCTs. While these can be screwed on with a help of a "Mak - Sct adapter", I wouldn't advocate going through that route, even with second hand as it can be quite expensive for something that may not improve your view much (and you could get a used 130p heritage dob for around that price anyway) If you are not aware of mak's limit with focal reducers already, depending on your power and EP's FOV, there will be vignetting. Sometimes you will see it (especially wide angle terrestrial viewing), sometimes you won't under very dark skies, but it's still there so something to keep in mind before purchasing. Edit: Also bear in mind that a 0.5x focal reducer will reduce your telescope speed down to f/5.9 .... So make sure the eyepieces you have are able to handle at that speed, or you may have issues with coma.
  14. Can't comment on this specific can as I have my own one. Optimal time is normally around 6 months, between the two solstice to capture the full range of sun trails. Great item to have for people who are into artistic photography or produce one with minimal effort.
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