smr

The concept of using video to create a photo is totally alien to me. I'm used to stacking several photos together with Deepskystacker and that's it. Can you explain what you mean by using video please? My DSLR can only record 30 minute videos at a time.

Thanks, isn't 1/40th a bit slow for the Moon? From what I remember when shooting it before 1/125th was ok, but the faster the shutter the better? Is there any need to use my Bahitnov mask or is it fine to just focus on the Moon itself? I guess if I don't need to use it then I can skip alignment and just manually slew over to the Moon?

Hi, I've taken photos of the Moon before as single shots with a 600mm Camera Lens and a tripod. I've since sold said lens and own a shorter focal length (430mm) refractor, but I now own an HEQ5 Pro. What's the best way to get a nice clean detailed image of the Moon with the gear I have, is it simply a case of exposing each photograph properly in terms of shutter speed and ISO, presumably the faster the shutter the better still? And then stacking them to get a cleaner image? Or is there anything else I should do to get a nice clean, detailed image?

This is just superb. The depth is fantastic. The best Pac-Man image I've ever seen as well.

Fantastic. I love images of this Galaxy. It's beautiful, fantastic image.

Ok thanks guys, I'll give it a go, as you say it's definitely not often we get clear skies here ! Hope I'm not too rusty!

Thanks for the reply. It would 430mm Z73 refractor and HEQ5 Pro Mount.

Hi all, Seems like ages since I have done any imaging. I think the last imaging was right back in the middle of January or so. February was a no go, the weather having been really poor with all the stormy weather we've been having, if isn't rain it's wind, if it's not wind the Moon is out etc. Last night was nice and clear, but still quite breezy. Tonight the forecast looks promising in terms of a clear night, the problem is the wind is due to be around 10-12mph... so how much wind is too much? Is the only way to negate the effects of wind by imaging with shorter subs or is it best not to shoot with 10mph+ winds?

2600.

Wondered why I never see any images from you Adam. Now I know why. Breathtakingly superb.

Would this be a good Camera for my Z73, sampling wise ? I also have no clue how spacing works, how to use them, which / what to buy etc. Would I also need a filter ? I'd be coming from simply connecting a DSLR to my field flattener.

Saw that earlier after reading your post TBH that kind of money is something I wouldn't mind progressing to for gear eventually, as this and landscape photography are my only two hobbies. Anyway, walk before running etc. I doubt I could take photos like the above with my Z73 in terms of stars and general IQ compared to such an instrument as the Tak.. Having said that it's obvious Richard is exceptionally good at the art of acquiring and processing astronomical images! edit... I wonder how the RASA 8" compares. I'm guessing not quite as good what with Tak's build and optical quality, but it's a nice widefield fov, and f/2...

Nice, f/3.3 with that fov... and those optics.

Tak Epilson 180-ED?

They are absolutely superb images Richard. Amazing.

Hi, I'm very interested in buying an OSC camera with a main interest in imaging nebulae. I'd be interested to see what your best images look like with a dedicated OSC Camera and what they are capable of, it'd be nice to see a variety of different nebulae - not just the most commonly imaged DSOs, along with integration time, filters if used and bortle scale / sky conditions. According to CO my sky is Bortle 5 / Yellow / 19.57 mag. I know if I mention faint and dim targets the answer will be to forget OSC and go for Mono and narrowband, but our skies really are fickle here in the UK and I've probably imaged 4 targets since August, so I'm leaning towards and OSC rather than Mono.

hi, just stacking some data together and wondered what's causing this, from data over multiple nights. some of the stack was before i got my bahitnov mask and was able to focus properly... some of the stack is with the mask. Would this be why the stars have this strange pattern around them?

Hi, How does an OSC workflow compare to using a DSLR? With my DSLR I use live view to focus on a bright star. How do you do this with an OSC Camera or Mono Camera if there is no live view ? I use APT Tool; can I use this to focus? At the moment I take just Flats and use Bias with my DSLR. Flats are taken using my laptop screen and using notepad. How do you take BIAS and Lightframes with an OSC? Thanks.

Going since 6pm.

Fantastic images Richard. A lot of dust and nebulosity. Do you think this camera would do well with my skies? Bortle 5, 19.57 mag. I'd be pairing it with my Z73 refractor (f5.9, 430mm).

Great stuff, you had a good night then. I got two hours on M45 but the clouds then rolled in. Looks like it should be crystal clear from 10pm tonight. Have you got your new camera on your star 71? Similar focal length to my scope I think if so. Are you using any filters with it ?

I may be buying this camera either this or next month. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with it this weekend, hope you have clear skies and enjoy your new Camera. Keep us posted.

This is probably a stupid question but something which has been on my mind now for a bit. I was of the assumption that integration time is the holy grail of Astrophotography images. Of the Astrophotography of the year books I have I notice that all of the images, not just the winning images in their respective categories, have long integration times, how long is long you ask? Well, everything is relative but I'd say on average about 20-30, quite a few 50+ hours. Another astrophotographer says however, that there's a myth about integration time, and that you shouldn't expect to reveal more detail and nebulosity if you can't already see it in a small stack - and that stacking more and integrating more just cancels out the noise and makes the image smoother. Is this fundamentally correct? I understand that if you have a longer stack you can stretch more without introducing more noise and artifacts than compared to a shorter stack. For example, if I integrate 5 hours worth of images of M42 and I can see a nice detailed trapezium etc. but hardly any of the surrounding brown dust / gas etc. in the outer regions and around M42, then there's no point in imaging for 15-20 hours if I can see hardly any of that dust with the shorter stack?

Hi, I like the FOV I have with my scope, quite a widefield 430mm fov, which coupled with my 80D frames many targets quite nicely. There are one or two targets where it'd be nice to go even wider though, and I was therefore wondering if there's the possibility of buying a focal reducer for my scope which would help achieve this ? The scope is a Zenithstar 73, I have the dedicated Z73 1:1 Field Flattener for it too, so I was wondering if I could replace this with a focal reducer and change the FOV? Thanks for any advice.

Great first attempt!