Vroobel

I didn't want to detach the mono camera from my current setup, but finally, I did it. I replaced the MC with MM and ran it with ASIair Plus. During a few hours, I was able to capture literally three pics before I started an autofocus procedure, but I didn't save them, I didn't know that they were the last pictures taken with this mini setup. My ASI 2600MM Pro was continuously refusing cooperation, every time I received a message that the capturing of a frame failed. I wasn't able to perform the autofocus because of the same reason, which means an unknown reason. I realised that usually this problem is related to not enough power delivered to the camera (my MC camera is powered from the ASIair). I connected the camera to a 12V 10A PSU, but nothing changed, it still was unable to properly take even one picture, also after swapping USB 3.0 cables linking the 2600MM and 120MM mini cameras with the ASIair. I was very close to panicking, 2600MM isn't cheap. I gave up and replaced the MM with MC and screwed the MM back to the 4" APO setup - I wanted to perform a starfield test using the Sigma 40mm and the MC camera and also have a plan to start imaging a Crescent Nebula in SHO. Both cameras work and ASIair works too. The only result of swapping the cameras is dust on the MM sensor, so I have to unscrew it from the filter wheel again, which I don't like. I gave up, I don't want to do another test, I'm happy with the fact that the PixInsight and BlurXterminator can give me a round shape of stars captured at F/2.0: It's a result of stacking 137 subs with bis, dark and flat frames. I used the BlurXterminator with its 'Correct Only' feature. Below is proof that the 2600MM works as well - two first hours of the Crescent in SHO: The mystery remains unsolved. Everything above concerns the fight against an APS-C camera and it does not change the fact that this lens is unbeatable if it is to work with a camera 'dedicated' to it, in my case the Canon 6D.

It's also black and shiny.

I thought same one year ago.

I tested the lens with the 2600MC camera till now. Yesterday I finished my Lion Nebula by collecting RGB stars, so it's possible to repeat the tests with 2600MM one. I'm going to perform the simple test with filters but without spacers. I'll give up if it fails.

OCD, you say? 🤔 Another interesting thing today. I have to think about it next time when I run my cables. 😏

Thanks. Anyway, it was a breathtaking phenomenon and I'm more than happy that it happened over our heads and the weather was enough gracious. 😍

But it seemed to change rather dramatically, how far I'm from you in Liverpool? The 'source' was very high, but I cannot say that it was close to the Zenith. It was nearly between Arcturus and Alkaid. Interesting. 🤔

Beautiful! 🙂 Am I right in my conclusion that you weren't able to capture the exact 'source' of the pillars? I mean it looks like the lower latitude the more 'parallel' the pillars are.

Oh, yesss, I like it! 🤩

Yes, a Russian company called Astromechanics makes the ASCOM-controllable adaptors. Unfortunately, my assumption is to use this lens (and maybe Sigma 105 Art or 135mm Art in future) with ASIAir, that's why I didn't buy the Russian adaptor and used an EAF instead. I have to admit that it was really tempting me... Moreover, I really need filters under my Bortle 9 sky. The Canon 6D is kept for a darker sky. I cannot believe that one of the most experienced company like ZWO made their EF/M42 filter drawer wrong. As @Elp wrote, something else is going on.

Yes - with Canon 6D I can do it easily. No - with 2600MC not. Every lens loses its distortion and aberration at a higher F ratio. But I didn't pay £629 for the top class cine lens to work with it at F/5.6 or higher.

I'm not sure if I understood. Could you please explain it?

After several approaches to the Sigma 40mm F/1.4 Art and the ASI 2600MC Pro cam with different apertures, I stopped my experiments at F/2.0 which still isn't perfect, but supported by the power of BlurXterminator, I can obtain nearly perfect stars. I compared results of 50 x 15s subframes stacked with bias, dark and flat frames. The lens was joined with the camera with no spacers used and with 1.4 mm spacer in total which at F/2.0 seems to be a compromise between the aperture and star shape. Each master file is presented as it is, with BlurX using 'Correction Only' and with BlurX using the following settings: 'Sharpen Stars = 0.15' and 'Adjust Star Halos = -50'. Sigma 40mm @ F/2.0 - no spacer - IDAS LPS-P2: Sigma 40mm @ F/2.0 - 1.4mm spacer - IDAS LPS-P2: Sigma 40mm @ F/2.0 - no spacer - Optolong L-eXtreme: Sigma 40mm @ F/2.0 - 1.4mm spacer - Optolong L-eXtreme: As you can see, it's acceptable. Just at the end, another test of the lens joined directly to the Canon 6D (full frame) with no filter and with an FF OPTOLONG L-Pro filter looks as follows. Sigma 40mm @ F/1.4 or F/1.8 - no filter: Sigma 40mm @ F/1.4 or F/1.8 - OPTOLONG L-Pro: Well, it looks like the lens works perfectly with the full-frame sensor, while use of filter brings distortions. The lens joined with the APS-C sensor using a dedicated 26.5mm thick ZWO filter drawer behaves strangely and becomes manageable af F/2.0 only thanks to sophisticated software. I was advised to try it with another camera. I will do the test with my ASI 2600MM Pro camera ASAP which means when I finish imaging the Lion Nebula in SHO. Of course, I'll update the conclusion. CS,

I also have the Hercules 1.25" wedge. I've replaced the original ND3 filter (inside the eyepiece holder) with 1.25" Solar Continuum 10nm. Also, I screwed the 1.25" variable polarizing filter into my ASI 678MC camera nosepiece, because it's much easier to adjust the filter there than if it's elsewhere. https://www.astrobin.com/f3sum2/

4.15 am, it's time for flat frames.

Hopefully, it's -10*C, but it depends on your ambient temperature. Usually it cools the sensor 30-35 degrees below the ambient temperature.

Well, I changed mind and rearranged it again, but nothing significant. 🙂 The postman left my another parcel at wrong address. Anyway, thanks to @paul mc c I have 5th setup equipped with a Losmandy plate, now it's my 102ED F/11 planet killer. I had to enlarge two holes to adapt the plate to M6 thread at tube rings.

Finally satisfied. 😁

... unless it's turned off in the mount config tab. I do it often when work on my projects at home, so no stars - no plate solve.

Did I? I don't remember... 🤔🙂 Thanks. I changed idea and swapped the EAF with the guider, so I'm waiting for another 2GT belt now. 😁

Thanks for the info, I will look at the soldering iron too. 👍 I also work on my project, hopefully finished now. I got 2GT pulley and timing belt to drive a focusing ring of my Sigma 40mm F/1.4 Art lens.

You have to buy a precise soldering iron and a dedicated microscope. 😏

One of many from Liverpool.

One of many pictures.

I was doing polar alignment and preparing for another session of the Lion Nebula. I was disgusted when I saw clouds. No, again? But the clouds were strange. Reddish? Pinkish? 🤔 Then I realised that it must be the announced geomagnetic storm. I never saw the aurora, so the first time is the one which I should remember all life.