Vroobel

I'm not sure how the guider behaves if you want to use a dual-narrowband filter. E.g., the use of an OAG requires that filters are first after the sensor. This is about the Duo cam in general. BTW, I experienced problems with guiding with the OAG when I was refocusing (EAF). NINA offers pausing the guiding while refocusing, I'm curious how ZWO dealt with it.

Did I guess again? What will I do with two the same cameras? 🤔

One copy for me, as the winner, please. It looks like there are 4 USB ports. The Raspberry Pi rather cannot fit there, also it has USB ports in a fixed place. I would say that there is an ASIair mini and a power hub.

Haha, should I understand that I guessed properly (2600MC, not 6200MC) ?

Right, so here is how the final version looks like with 1.2mm spacer. Before and after BlurXterminator, just 'Correct only' selected. I nearly forgot: it's F/1.4. I'm not going to kill myself, I think it's much better than an average 40mm lens.

Within around half an hour... Original image: Also, reduced stars and smoothed background:

It's a WiFi-ready combination of 6200MC with ASIAir Plus v2 inside. 😁

The 44mm results in a big coma. Increasing the distance makes the coma smaller. When the spacer is 1.2mm thick, some corners have small coma while others have radial elongated stars. The spacer thicker than the 1.2mm results with elongated stars only.

I'm not sure if I know the meaning of FF and FR. Askar isn't a lens, but it doesn't behave like a typical refractor. The AberrationInspector shows the 9 areas zoomed. The central elongation is nothing in comparison to the coma in corners, easily correctable by the BX, while the coma is not entirely. I did the tests. Too thick spacer causes radial, elongated stars in corners, like star trails. Too thin spacer - still coma, but smaller. The optimal distance of 1.2mm is described in my previous post.

Can you share the original stacked file?

Of course, you are right, but why my Askar denies the following rule? I think it's because it's closer to a lens than to an astro refractor. Focusing by rotating a ring (OK, WO Cats also have it) while its objective moves in and out. Anyway, after many attempts I applied around 1.2mm spacer in total and I still have a small coma interchangeably with a radially elongated star in corners. I think it's a point of compromise. They are visible after stacking while an affected by LP background is still there. But the goal is to remove the background, then the distortion isn't visible. I made 30x30s F/1.8 for IDAS LPS-P2 and L-eXtreme filters, now I repeat the same for F/1.4 to see any difference. In the meantime, my main setup captures a Lion Nebula in SHO...

I selected a lunar tracking mode then used Cartes du Ciel to point the Moon and finally took the point at a framing section and then slewed to the Moon. Of course, it didn't centre, so I manually reaimed my scope at the Moon and voila!

Thank you Mark, I'll reed it ASAP.

BTW... 😂

So use this exact link for our area: https://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/outdoorsports/seeing/liverpool_united-kingdom_2644210#

I already tried this way. It looks like they are machined poorly, like the thread is harsh and blocks when you screw it securely (that means quite strongly).

I remember. It was before summer/autumn of last year. The meteoblue was enough to plan the session 2-3 days before with much more than 50% chance that it's doable. Presently, a Wether Channel provides me information if I can expect rain or rather clearer sky (which doesn't mean fully clear) a few days earlier. The meteoblue still shows probable sky conditions within the current day. The sat24 shows where the clouds travel while I observe all Europe area for a wider context. Unfortunately, the Clear Outside is the least reliable and it happened just after the time I mentioned above. It shows wrong information even in a real time.

Yes, I agree. None of the weather forecast is trustworthy recently, but a few of them combined together give a quite reliable information if we should be ready or not at all.

It rather looks like the clouds are going to omit us this time. 🙂 https://www.sat24.com/en-gb/country/gb

Try to not buy cheap spacer sets from Amazon or similar source. Once you screw them together with other your parts you may be unable to unscrew them without workshop tools like a vice and a bigger pliers. I experienced it and the cheap ones are damaged while the quality ones are slightly scratched. I'm curious if I could use e.g. WD-40, but I'm worried that it may affect an optics.

Haha, my mistake. You will stack it, so do whatever you want. 🤪 I know that you have problems with drizzle, so let's leave this idea.

Use dithering, if the setup is undersampling, I'll try drizzling x2.

What is it's focal length? Try M81 and M82, they are always visible.

Sorry for multiple posts. I'll try this advice tonight (thanks to @Elp) : https://optcorp.com/blogs/deep-sky-imaging/how-to-set-the-correct-back-focus

BTW, here is shown where the focus at infinity is located if I work with the Canon 6D. It's not too far, to be honest.