Chriske

Yep, thought so too.

Not an easy to print, that last one.

Dam... Long time ago we used Araldite for an astro project. We used Araldite to glue primary mirrors to flex'm into a parabola. Although it worked very well (until it broke) after a while, we abandoned the project. It didn't last long, never knew why, now I know. Silly it wasn't mentioned on the labels back then.

I do have an old lens, somewhere on shelve collecting dust. Going to try and copy this nice little project one of these days. Only mine will be 'somewhat' larger. Diameter is 130mm.

S3D is indeed one of the best, together with the Prusa-Slicer. We've tested both these slicers side by side. (also a few others) The Prusa-slicer looks exactly the same as Slic3r, but the Prusa version has been rewritten and has more settings on board.

Indeed, there's a learning process involved, were you need to know how a printer will behave when a few slicer settings were changed.

I understand, but that has nothing to do with the CAD software itself. I misunderstood I think...😉

How so..?

Indeed, while designing I often end up with version 2, 3, and sometimes, making very complex parts, even more attempts are needed to have it all perfect. To save cost and printing time, designing very large parts, I always print just a small 'cut-out' of that object before I print the entire object.

Found a few old pictures of that high tech focuser...🤭

One very last picture, tells how enormous these rockets were. This (printed) little astronaut will be posted near these four rockets. We all now how big these StaturnV rockets were, but when I see that little guy(31mm high), standing beside one of these 2 meter high rockets...it's mind-boggling...! Should I paint it..? Is there überhaupt something to paint, I think it's all white. Have to look it up.

Yet another printed focuser. Except for a few small bolts and two nuts there's no metal or aluminium involved at all in this Helix variant. The metal(aluminium) focuser-barrel is replaced by a printed one. The metal ball-bearings are replaced by rubber O-rings. Bolts and nuts not in the drawing yet. I'll also print two flanges to put in the focuser barrel at each side. Through these flanges I'll insert a threaded rod(M6 or so) Running the focuser barrel in a powerdrill I will sand the barrel. Purpose is to partially remove the irregularities of the perimeter's printed layers. The eyepieces action will get lots smoother. And if I print that barrel with a very small layer height and sand a bit it will most likely run as smooth as any metal version...I hope... This time I did choose a 3° angle instead of 4° for the (rubber)guiding wheel. Testprint on it's way...

Yes, good luck indeed. Why haven't you started grinding your own Gina..?..😊

No no, HOT...!

mono, I would...

Why nylon..?

Yep, after a quick drawing I ran a simulation in my slicer. My slicer gives me an estimate value of the filament length required to print that thing, estimate time to finish that part and also the cost to print it. In one of the settings of slicer I need to fill in the cost of 1kg filament.

One more focuser, but this one has nothing to do with printers or plastic at all. I'm going back to early '80, to the very start of our telescopemaking course. Goal was to make a telescope as cheap as possible. One of the items to work on was the focuser. The focuser I came up with back then was nothing more then a long spring loaded wooden plank. It was about 1 meter long. this plank was secured at the lower end of the the scope. At the upper end there was also a small piece of wood. Purpose of that (dark wood in the drawing) part was to keep the eyepiece in line with the optical axis while focusing. Focusing was done with the red knob, the yellow knob was to secure the eyepiece in that hole. At the time we didn't care very much about the small tilting error of the eyepiece. But we never used it on a short telescope. But hey, it worked..!

I have absolutely no idea how a base like that looks like. I did a 60 sec drawing(about 120x120x25mm) and put it in slicer. It gives me : 1.60€

I'd replace the wiring completely, just to be on the save side

Most probably loose connection somewhere..?

woow £50 for just the base...?...🤪

Direction unpredictable, how can this be..?

Go for a dual speed.

I have a very large lathe...😉 That was the only disadvantage, lots of work to make these. I never added planes to these tubes, there's in fact no need to.