Chriske

Never used it either. The only situation I can think of using a raft is while printing ABS.

Just got back.. You said it took rather long to print this part(how long..?), seem to me this part should not take to long Could you post the STL file please. Like to do a simulation.

was just looking too and there are a few issues there. Bad bonding imo but if we could see a picture from somewhat aside. If it is a bonding problem, raising infill will not solve this.

I most of the time print @35% infill, that's quit enough. best is to post a picture of that broken part, so we can all see what can done about it. Maybe adjust a few settings in slicer could help solving this problem. Or maybe the part you hit was to thin..?

Sorry to highjack your thread discardedastro, but I couldn't resist, sorry a thousand times... Won’t do it again...promise....😉

This one is just for teasing you all...🤭 Me hogging out a 20" mirror. This one took me about 1.5 hours to finish it to f/5.6 Another one, 20" f/4 was done just over two hours. This device is nothing more then an angle grinder with a diamond disk. Two plank with the correct radius(about) roll over 4 plastic wheels.

I have two MoM's, but when I'm doing one manually, this is my setup.

Buying a glass-cutter is hardware store is not a good idea. One golden rule while cutting glass : Do not press to hard on your cutter. This is not a good cutter. Costs only £3.2 By good I mean : safe. These are TOYO (my favorite) Ergonomically 100% ok Very good to cut curved shapes Also very good I also have this one from 'Silberschnitt'(rather expensive). Never had any failure using this one.

To dampen vibration why not use silent-blocks between fan and coolingblock..?

Using a quality glasscutter there's no need to be afraid of cutting yourself. Together with my wife we've cut (literal) kilometres of glass(Tiffany). Never cut ourselves. Making a cut(from edge to edge) with a quality cutter the perimeter of the glass-sheet is always broken at a perfect 90° angle. Right after making a cut and break it I can go over that edge with my fingers, no harm done at all. No need to use any cutting oil or fluid to make a clean cut btw. NEVER go twice over a cut, when you do you destroy your cutter.

Last Christmas, during sale, I bought 17(yep) 2.2 kg PLA(mostly)/PETG reels at Colorfab. Price back then was 26(!)€. Now I'm left with just 2 reels. During next Black Friday there's a sale(again) at Colorfab. Don't know how low they'll go, just wait and see. During these last 6 years I bought from different companies. I can only say, Colorfab PLA-eco and PETG-eco filament is top-quality.

The links shows 2.2 kg reels. I use it all the time, and I'm not the only one on this forum if I'm not mistaken. https://colorfabb.com/filaments/pla-filaments/pla-economy and also https://colorfabb.com/filaments/co-polyesters-filaments/petg-economy

For every used reel of carbon filled filament, you need about one new brass nozzle...🤨

What are these 'Scuff plates' for..? There are four of them. I'm only guessing here : four devices to firmly hold Hubble in the the Shuttles cargo-bay during transport..?

This is a very good site, many detailed views, but no explanations or measurements, pity. On that other site there are some measurements. It's probably enough for my project.

What did you have in mind, how small..?

I did but it's a bit small compared with what I'm planning to build. Maybe I did miss something..?

Hey, thanks a lot for the tip..!

Oops...! Need to correct something here. Higher up I said we made telescope tubes out of cardboard back then. That's pure nonsense of course.. That should have been hardboard of course and not cardboard... silly me..!

What I do not understand is that this guy can get away using the name 'Prusa' selling that wooden rubbish.

All four tubes for this project will be made of hardboard 3.6mm thick. During course, along time ago before we started using trusses, we made our telescope tubes out of cardboard too. In the beginning we used PVC tubes which were very heavy. In fact to heavy when we started building larger scopes. So we made our tubes out of cardboard instead. Before we wrapped the cardboard sheets around a PVC tube we sprayed them soaking wet. Then we started bending the wet cardboard very slowly around a PVC tube and fastened the cardboard with buckles. These cardboard tubes are very light, strong and cost a fraction of the same size PVC tubes. At he outside these cardboard tubes are very smooth and at the inside you have that nice rippled surface. Ideal in combination with black paint to flock the inside.

As you, I like a challenge..!😁

SaturnV (x4) scale 1:55 are done. This time our director asked me to build a scale model of Hubble space telescope to be hung just above the entrance of our planetarium. I actually will build two versions. One is 1:7 and the second will be 1:10 scale Busy making the two tubes of the largest one. One is 600mm diameter and the other is only 420mm diameter. Total length of that 1:7 scale model (open-door included) will be about 2.3meter. In both cases only a few parts of the models will be printed. Is there a specialist Hubble space telescope out there...??? I have a few questions about Hubble. This is were I have most of the info from. Zoomed in on the back of Hubble I see a few(4) vent-holes. Why are there vent holes at the back..in space..? A few more questions yet to come, thanks..!

Someone suggested Google : 3d printer fire. Do the same and Google also : washing-machine fire, dish-washing machines fire, laundry dryer fire...etc... I'm not saying ignore safety measures, let that be clear.

Don't do it..!!!