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About martinl

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  1. I found the 7.9” screen of my iPad mini 4 to be ideal. My 4” phone is definitely too small and my 10.5” iPad is unnecessarily large for field use. To the best of my knowledge there is no difference in scope control capabilities of the Plus and Pro versions. The Pro version has a decent moon map, however, that I appreciate and some fun things like galaxy view. The Plus version is a lot smaller though.
  2. martinl

    AOK VAMO Traveller with Encoders

    That looks increadibly slick! Beautiful engineering and machining - Beat does seem to know what he is doing! An unrelated question: Are those TrekPak dividers without the usual red bits in your Pelican, or have you found an alternative source of the material?
  3. martinl

    Good evening from Sweden!

  4. martinl

    Eyepiece projection

    f20 is pretty much optimum for 3,75um pixels, so if you have a 2x barlow just use that. Getting the planet on the chip is not trivial. If you center the planet using a standard eyepiece it will be so out of focus when you replace the EP with the camera that you’re likely to not even see it on the computer screen. Either be aware that you need to refocus a lot to account for the ~12.5mm back focus of the camera or, as i did, make an EP parfocal with the camera. I added an extension to a TV Plossl and ~6mm of rubber O-rings (TV EPs already focus ~6.3mm out from the shoulder) to do this.
  5. Since you’re on a budget I would advice to hold off on purchases for now. Wait at least until you’ve attended the astronomy club meeting and have a better idea of what you want. What I would do: 1. Download a copy of SkySafari basic (free, might be called SkySafari AR now) to your phone/tablet. Knowing WHAT to look for is at least half the problem solved. If you want to spend some money get a copy of SkySafari 6 Plus. 2. Find, borrow or steal a pair of binoculars. Any binos will do, but the larger the aperture the better. If you’re not captivated by what binos will show then this may not be the hobby for you. Which is fine. 3. Look for used equipment, either here, or on https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php Expect to pay 50-70% of new prices.
  6. For the small price (compared to everything else in his hobby) I thought it was well worth it. There are quite a few changes that add up to a better experience and a more effective interface, eg: Customisable toolbar. DSOs sorted from north to south rather than S to N as in SS5. Magnitude limits (never see stars dimmer than). Better FOV circles with built-in equipment database. Various add-ons like voice control, tilt-to-slew and ability to graph object altitudes.
  7. Ruud, I just have to say that in ~20 years of reading discussions about amateur optics your animations are BY FAR the best and easiest to understand illustrations I’ve seen of those phenomena everyone discusses but no one (including me) seems to fully understand! Many thanks for your efforts!
  8. martinl

    Celestron circle t orthos.

    Interesting. I hadn’t heard about multicoatings increasing surface roughness before. Might well be true - optics is a science of many variables, after all. On the other hand, whenever I hear about legacy equipment being unquantifiably better than the modern equivalent I tend to think “conservatism” or “nostalgia”. I’d love to see a statistically significant double blind test of modern and legacy equipment!
  9. Not an eyepiece, per se, but my Celestron Ultima barlow was the first piece of separate astro equipment I ever bought after getting my first scope in 2000. Still with me and not going anywhere. Ironically, the two eyepieces in my current stable that I’ve had the longest are the 10mm and 6mm Ethos - both of which I’m considering letting go. Times and preferences change...
  10. martinl

    Celestron circle t orthos.

    Like John I think it would be an even match, though the only circle-T ortho I’ve had was a 9mm. However, if I were to try to better my TV zoom I would probably opt for one of the more modern, multi-coated, orthos since the original circle-Ts only had single coatings.
  11. martinl

    Show me your eyepiece cases

    Storing EPs horizontally makes them easier to identify in the dark. Also, when switching EPs you can simply put them back on their sides without worrying about replacing end caps. At least that’s why I prefer storing my most used EPs horizontally. Infrequently used EPs can be stored vertically to save space - if your case is deep enough.
  12. martinl

    Show me your eyepiece cases

    Yeah. Cubed, or custom-cut, foam is really too inflexible for our ever-changing collections. I’m experimenting with dividers cut from camping mat for a more flexible arrangement of my Peli 1400. It seems to work well, but I need to decide on how to keep the dividers in place. Velcro seems the obvious answer.
  13. martinl

    Show me your eyepiece cases

    I used this one to figure out what fits in my cases: https://mycasebuilder.eu/ They have a fair database of different EPs etc to use. For pick and pluck foam I’ve used a simple excel sheet where every (squared) cell represents a piece of foam and simply coloured blocks of cells to represent individual EPs.
  14. martinl

    Mount & supplier frustration - Any ideas?

    I’ve also been considering an Ercole and, if I get one, I will get one of these clamps for one axis: https://www.berlebach.de/?bereich=details&id=598&sprache=english M6 with 35mm spacing AND a 20.5mm hole for a counterweight shaft when using only one scope!
  15. Welcome to SGL! I’d say that the Plus version is plenty. The main difference is that the Pro version contains many dimmer stars that you won’t be able to see with a 5” telescope anyway. The only reason I went with the Pro version when I upgraded (I had the Plus version of SS5) was that the Pro version has a moon map that the Plus version lacks - but there are plenty of free moon map apps you can use instead.

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