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About martinl

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  1. This beautiful 10mm Ethos is still available, including caps, box, paperwork and the all-important silver "Powered by Tele Vue" sticker. Note that the price of £370 / €430 INCLUDES recorded delivery to the UK and EU.
  2. All in excellent condition, with perfect glass and minimal marks on the chrome barrels from normal use. Original caps and boxes included. Prices include recorded delivery to the UK and most of Europe. Payment by bank transfer preferred. Tele Vue Ethos 10mm - £370 / €430 Tele Vue Ethos 6mm - SOLD TO MARCUS Tele Vue Panoptic 24mm - SOLD TO CARLOS Tele Vue DeLite 7mm - SOLD TO MIKE
  3. Yellow is awesome! Much easier to see to in the dark. I bought a couple of 1.875” for my Ethos/Delos/Delites and 2”ers for miscellaneous 2” fittings and ending up using the 2” ones on the eyepieces as they are a lot easier to get off but still stay on well enough over the eyeguards. I wish I’d bought more, especially 1.25” ones for all my 1.25” EPs.
  4. I’m with Moonshane on this. Without glasses I find that anything between about 10-15mm of advertised ER (real ER being a few mm less) is about perfect. Less and my eyelashes start to brush the lens, more and it gets difficult to hold the view. This is why most 20mm ER EPs (geared towards eyeglass users) tend to have adjustable eye guards. In your case I’d lean towards the 82 degree/13mm ER option, but I’d read reviews of that particular EP to make sure that users find it comfortable before buying.
  5. Same in Sweden. I took the TV85 to try out a new dark site but the moon + haze made deep sky a non-starter. Despite poor seeing I DID at least manage to see some detail, including the southern polar ice cap, on Mars using a ZWO ADC which was rewarding. Mars has been very low in the sky here at 60˚N... Quick looks at Uranus, Neptune and a fearless herd of deer that passed by and it was time to head home and pour a beer.
  6. I found the 7.9” screen of my iPad mini 4 to be ideal. My 4” phone is definitely too small and my 10.5” iPad is unnecessarily large for field use. To the best of my knowledge there is no difference in scope control capabilities of the Plus and Pro versions. The Pro version has a decent moon map, however, that I appreciate and some fun things like galaxy view. The Plus version is a lot smaller though.
  7. That looks increadibly slick! Beautiful engineering and machining - Beat does seem to know what he is doing! An unrelated question: Are those TrekPak dividers without the usual red bits in your Pelican, or have you found an alternative source of the material?
  8. f20 is pretty much optimum for 3,75um pixels, so if you have a 2x barlow just use that. Getting the planet on the chip is not trivial. If you center the planet using a standard eyepiece it will be so out of focus when you replace the EP with the camera that you’re likely to not even see it on the computer screen. Either be aware that you need to refocus a lot to account for the ~12.5mm back focus of the camera or, as i did, make an EP parfocal with the camera. I added an extension to a TV Plossl and ~6mm of rubber O-rings (TV EPs already focus ~6.3mm out from the shoulder) to do this.
  9. Since you’re on a budget I would advice to hold off on purchases for now. Wait at least until you’ve attended the astronomy club meeting and have a better idea of what you want. What I would do: 1. Download a copy of SkySafari basic (free, might be called SkySafari AR now) to your phone/tablet. Knowing WHAT to look for is at least half the problem solved. If you want to spend some money get a copy of SkySafari 6 Plus. 2. Find, borrow or steal a pair of binoculars. Any binos will do, but the larger the aperture the better. If you’re not captivated by what binos will show then this may not be the hobby for you. Which is fine. 3. Look for used equipment, either here, or on https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php Expect to pay 50-70% of new prices.
  10. For the small price (compared to everything else in his hobby) I thought it was well worth it. There are quite a few changes that add up to a better experience and a more effective interface, eg: Customisable toolbar. DSOs sorted from north to south rather than S to N as in SS5. Magnitude limits (never see stars dimmer than). Better FOV circles with built-in equipment database. Various add-ons like voice control, tilt-to-slew and ability to graph object altitudes.
  11. Ruud, I just have to say that in ~20 years of reading discussions about amateur optics your animations are BY FAR the best and easiest to understand illustrations I’ve seen of those phenomena everyone discusses but no one (including me) seems to fully understand! Many thanks for your efforts!
  12. Interesting. I hadn’t heard about multicoatings increasing surface roughness before. Might well be true - optics is a science of many variables, after all. On the other hand, whenever I hear about legacy equipment being unquantifiably better than the modern equivalent I tend to think “conservatism” or “nostalgia”. I’d love to see a statistically significant double blind test of modern and legacy equipment!
  13. Not an eyepiece, per se, but my Celestron Ultima barlow was the first piece of separate astro equipment I ever bought after getting my first scope in 2000. Still with me and not going anywhere. Ironically, the two eyepieces in my current stable that I’ve had the longest are the 10mm and 6mm Ethos - both of which I’m considering letting go. Times and preferences change...
  14. Like John I think it would be an even match, though the only circle-T ortho I’ve had was a 9mm. However, if I were to try to better my TV zoom I would probably opt for one of the more modern, multi-coated, orthos since the original circle-Ts only had single coatings.
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