RolandKol

I have the same balancing problem with all toys at the top, so I attached my Canon for wide field shots and as a contra-balance. I guess, ST80 will make balance even easier and you will not need 1kg extra. You simply need to buy two longer dovetail bars and place ST80 on top/center or bit lower, the main camera should be attached to 130PDS from bottom at 6 o'clock. Something like this.

OMG Gina! I can only imagine how much time it takes to print something in that size week?

Thanks a lot! this one is enough

Thanks a lot

Has anyone got the dimensions of the bottom/base plate of the focuser (where the focus locking bolt and other bolts are located)? I have a slow day at the office and decided to draw a sketch of the bracket to fit the stepper motor.

Hi again, thanks for the advice on the software, I have decided to stay with AutoCad and TinkerCad (for the fast/simple sketches). Blender was really interesting, maybe once I will come back to it. As per Filaments: I will start testing PLA and probably PLA plus. In ideal, I would like to print something strong as Polycarbonate, but I am sure my "Anycubic i3 Mega S" is not able to print it as it needs around 300C degrees in Nozzle and etc. Mine is able to reach around 270C, and the hotbed around 110C, - whats the strongest material I will be able to use with these temps? (For small 5-10cm dovetail and/or 1kg camera holder). Am I capped with ABS?

You can always chop off again... 1cm was not enough for me

Hi all, I am waiting for my first printer "Anycubic i3 Mega 3D Printer", should be delivered today!!! I hope I will manage to hold myself till tomorrow as the 31st of December is not the best day for experiments! P.S. I still have not managed to choose the software for design... TinkerCAD webapp looks very basic... AutoCad - too expensive, however, I do have it in the office, just in case.... a bit lost in this area. any new starter advises are very very welcome! (like web libs, soft, settings and "no no things" especially!)

Simply, try using a smartphone! just like you did with concenter

Hmm, can you please explain this part in detail? As I spent lots of time placing the secondary using Chesire and col.cap and I dont think I managed to place it perfectly

Not sure which cam and CC you will use, but for me 1cm was not enough, - for Skywatcher 0.9 CC and ASi1600MMM

I noticed that part! but he wants to test before "circumcision"

You wont need to touch the secondary for it, you even will not need to remove the focuser as you can loosen the bolts holding focuser's knobs and remove the drawtube only. Drop me PM once you will on to it, will explain or even show it in detail.

you have missed one part... x) Shorten the Focuser's drawtube (1cm minimum) And good luck and patience while placing the secondary back in the position!!! the rest is piece of cake!

SW 8" Quatro CF was almost the same price!!! Insane!

It does not work perfectly on my NEQ6 I guess, it more depends on the skills/experience, Light Pollution, Weather permission to experiment and if you have a minimalistic equipment, like small guiding scope, small cameras and etc, matching mount loading limits and the Light Pollution in your area... And with a better mount, you will have better chances to set everything up faster.

Yep.. Samyang is twice expensive, but it is also better in all parameters you choose to check. Plus, universal and easy to sell if needed... But it is really strange... I cannot find any secondhand ones during last 5 or 6 months.... P.S. I bought Evo as a guider and planned to try using it with my Canon... I thought it will serve me as "2 in 1" But later, I saw some pic examples ... and my experiment was written off... unfortunately

Yep.. 50ED accepts only 1.25, however, prices usually go up by quality and by diameter also... in this particular case, it is the smallest peace of glass for the price of the diamond In this case, I will keep my money for Samyang 135 larger FOV and aperture, faster and already tested

That flattener is only 1.25".... and the price!!! Almost the same as the Scope... Daylight Robbery... One day, I will try sticking In my SW Coma corrector into it... Just for experiment....

Here is my second try on the Flaming Star Nebula. SHO, - only 12x300s each, Baader NB (7<>8.5nm) + ASI1600MM-Pro. Planing to add a bit more Ha and SII, not sure about OIII as images showed almost no dust... Should I try adding OIII anyway?

I am Not very sure about differences in focus within 5C and even 10C.... I used SGP for a while (been testing it), and always used Image History, which gave image quality statistics like FHM and etc. I tried to collect data for my future DIY autofocuser, so I will be able to automate the re-focus routine in relation to temp change... And I have not noticed any radical change in the image quality during all nights.... and temp drop was around 10c. The main problem I have, - focus shift while locking it... I Hate it sooo much as it makes focusing a guesswork... (offsetting focus, locking, Fail, un-lock (focus runs away somewhere unpredictably), re-focus with offset again, locking, focus shifts to opposite side than expected.... .... ... It takes ages...). If someone has focus shift due to the temp, it will happen with CF body also. Less, but I am sure it will, - and that focusing headache will remain... My inner "Scrooge McDuck" simply does not allow me to go and buy a better focuser which will cost more than OTA itself! Insane!... So started DIY autofocuser project... (burned few parts, waiting for new... hope to get them soon). In this case, I totally agree with Neil. I will make the collimation smoother (ordered bolts like BobKnobs for the secondary from China, coming in a week or so) not sure if I need springs, I simply tighten the primary bolts quite strongly and my setup is permanent most of the time. Will deal with focuser's shift/locking problem using DIY autofocuser with a strong stepper motor, - which is around 4 times cheaper than a Moonlite! As I have lots of trees around in the garden.... unfortunately, I need to clean my Primary already (scope is 1 year old...) I will use the cleaning day for Flocking. Not sure if flocking the focuser's drawtube will cause any optical problems, but I will flock it also....

Have you tried "PixInsight LE", the Old and Free Pixinsight version? It has quite a powerful gradient removal tool.

Haha never paid attention to it! My SW CC also has it thanks!

Nice Duplet! Don't you afraid camera to fall off in such a position? I want to place my ASI1600 like this to make a better balance.... but I AFRAID!

Just FYI, there are free alternatives for Team Viewer, I prefer VNC Viewer/Server.