alacant

Hi Don't confuse back focus with position of focus relative to the telescope body or camera back focus. The shoulder of the ff needs to be 130mm from the camera sensor. That's it. Set that, then decide on a sensible focus position. I used one m48 extension tube which fitted into the focuser along with the ff and two m48 extension tubes of a larger diameter. I used a 2" eypiece parfocalising ring hard up against the shoulder of the wider m48 tubes to bring the focuser to the centre of its travel and keep the assembly square to the telescope. Here is the setup for a dslr with camera backfocus of 44mmm. You're gonna need around 40mm more for your 183. I have an m48 t2 adapter with 11mm optical path. You won't need that but you're gonna need a m48 to m42 ring to adapt to the zwo instead. For your original request, simply leave out the ff and correct in software. StarTools has a very good lens adjuster module which will correct field curvature, but still IMO better to correct at source and use the module for fine tuning. HTH

We use this one with the 72ed. It has the advantage of retaining native focal length and gives you a whopping 130mm back focus. No extra colour or vignetting is introduced and the stars are good to the corners. Well, as good as cheap SW refractors allow! Yes, it's in stock. Cheers

Hi Unless you use a focal reducer, you're going to need about 130mm of extension between the two to reach adjustable focus at infinity. HTH

Hi Not so much the pixels, rather the age, lack of live view, noise and (big blocks for pixels when) matching it to your wo60. I've a 450d a 1200d and a 700d. The difference even six years makes is quite dramatic. Go back fourteen to the 30d and, well... Any eos with the 18mp sensor is gonna be -far- better than anything before it (and IMHO the newer 24mp eos'). My choice despite the cheap plastic, would be the -modified- 1300d. Give yourself a fighting chance! But hey, you have both. Try them. A side by side should make your decision a lot easier. Cheers and HTH

Looks good. Nice detail.

Oh dear! Sorry to hear that. Are you certain you had the mount limits set correctly? Cheers

+1. Get a cc and stick with your DSLR. If you feel that ccs are expensive, then you'd need to spend $silly to get a dedicated camera anywhere near the size of your Nikon. If you're ok with IT stuff, you could also see how you got on with correction in software before you made a purchase. Meanwhile, you could try an uv-ir cut filter on your refractor. Just our €0.02 but HTH.

Hi Be prepared for beyond. No need to intervene manually. Get some sleep instead. EKOS does automatic meridian flips and continues west where it left off. At dawn, it then parks your mount and shuts down. Automation is nice:) Cheers

Hi Are we sure that the camera is working correctly? Can you get the 224 attached to another, preferably short focal length, telescope? Focus with low/auto gain in daylight on a distant tree/pylon/building... Cheers

Mmm. That didn't work for the OP because he has insufficient time. I'm suggesting a different approach which may get him started using the time which he does have available. Thanks.

Yeah. I'm afraid it does. Always, and you don't have enough 'clear sky time' behind you to deal with it. Astro clubs and societies. With little time to dedicate, I know of only one sure way to get started and that is to spend a few sessions side by side with someone who knows what they are doing. No amount of forum advice (sound as it may be) or reading will get you started quicker. In many cases, it's the only way. ATM it may only be a video call, but give someone a ssh or vnc (or whatever windows users use) link into your computer and you're half way there. Worth one last try? Cheers

Yeah. 2x2 at that focal length is gonna give you football-pitchº per pixel! Good to see you've switched to SEP-multistar. Nothing else comes close. 15 is the recommended guiding calibration distance. You may want to adjust the pulse length and the number of pulses. To improve even more, try using the GPG algorithm for RA. It will smooth any PE in the mount after a few minutes' guiding. Well done for sticking at it.

Yeah. Out of memory. When starting, you need to be able to take the hardware for granted. Give yourself a fighting chance. The software is difficult enough as it is! I always recommend starting with a decent computer. Switch to a pi when you have learned the ropes. Cheers

If you have any issues in future and you're in a hurry, you can get an -almost- instant fix/solution by posting a one liner along with the log here. The log removes any guesswork. Cheers and well done for sticking at it.

Hi It may also help to have -links to- a frame from the start and a from from the end of the session as well as the guide logs. Cheers

It's an indi setting. You can choose to force BULB and have indi time the exposures or have the internal camera time them. A few other bits which may help you find it... Are you saving as CR2 or fits? Is the camera set to M? Is the camera set to B? Have you tried another cable? Are you certain that the camera is not mounted by the computer? HTH

? The fixes don't mention anything about pixel size. Go through the fixes they suggest. Cheers

Hi The fixes there there don't work? If not, save to the camera's SD card until you get chance to look at the log. Cheers

No.

Yeah, it can seem like that. Take a step back? The turning point for me was watching someone who knew what they were doing. Live. One to one. Then realising that none of what he was doing was particularly difficult. ATM that maybe restricted to a video call, but it's a sure way to get bump started. Diagnosis via forum is so much more difficult. Cheers and good luck.

Hi There are 4 speed presets; Guide, Centring, Find, Max. For Max, choose whichever you feel the motors will handle. On my eq6, the max is 800 but it sounds far happier at 700. Maybe it would be easier to access them via the Mount Control popup slider instead? There are always loadsa different ways to attack a problem with indi! Cheers

You set the goto slew speeds in the indi control panel. I don't think you'll get 1000x so choose something more reasonable such as, say, 600x. Still quite fast. HTH

Hi No need for clear sky with the simulators. Cheers

Nice:) Increase the calibration iterations to 8 with pulse 400. HTH.