alacant

Hi The camera needs to be much further away from the telescope tube. The extension of the focuser in your picture shows the approximate focus position for your dslr. The sensor on the 2600 is just 17mm from the camera case. Imagine now moving the 2600's sensor to the same distance as the sensor on your dslr and you'll begin to see why you can't reach focus. You may have enough extension by simply pulling the camera-cc assembly away from the focuser, but as you've already found, the focuser thumbscrew attachment is pitifully inadequate for this job. One of these or one of these may help. Cheers

If you have a long Cheshire sight tube, you won't be able to. Anyway, just remember that apart from reflection, the secondary mirror has no optical properties. +1 for @wulfrun's recommendation. To make life even easier, understandable and to reinforce Seronik's simplicity, preface with Telia's plain English collimation myths. **EDIT. Important. So that the collimation holds at all angles, fit a long (at least 50cm) Losmandy dovetail plate, a rigid box section to tie the top of the tube rings and fit six strong springs to the main mirror. Then remove the mirror clips and fix the main mirror to the cell using three generous applications of neutral silicone.

Hi No need as @Chefgage's plate solve shows you missed it. Good luck with the next attempt. Now you know what you're looking for, it should be easy to frame with a 100mm lens. The .fits will looks very dark, almost black apart from perhaps some of the brighter stars. Upload to the SGL server may be slow. It seems to depend upon where you are rather than the speed of your connection. Best to upload to say, Google Drive and post a link back here. Cheers

Hi Really? It looks as if it's been stretched, Should be easy to diagnose. How about posting -a link to- the .tif or .fits from the Siril working directory? There's only around 10 minutes of exposure, but there maybe something... Cheers

Lovely shot. For targets like these with the blue-green stuff, we use a UHC filter. They're only cheap items and bring the nebula to the fore. Keep your existing frames to restore star colour. 600d banding: dither and take more frames to even the background. Cheers well done and HTH

Dave If you're after bringing green and red emission colours to the fore, the UHC is great, but always try without a filter first. With your 533, lots of filter-less short exposures will almost certainly be easier to process than long exposure false colour stuff. If you're using it with a refractor, don't forget to get either the ccd version or include a separate ir cut somewhere before the camera. Cheers

To simplify things for now, run kstars on the Nuc and connect to it via vnc. It is then is then always local. Make sure that you have specified a folder which exists on your Nuc of course;)

Hi Set the values you want -2x2, local or WHY- then in the INDI control panel for the 294, hit: options -> save Cheers

Hi everyone Getting close with the ff to sensor distance now. One day maybe! There's an interesting patch to the left of the oft-imaged Messier objects which we'd previously not noticed. Probably because we'd been imaging at 600mm+ focal length. Thanks for looking and do post if you do dslr-on-cheap-refractor stuff. 700d. 4 hours total. EKOS Siril StarTools

+10!!!

Yes:)

Hi We find they introduce noise/banding/artifacts. Purely hands on subjectivity. Try with and without dark frames. Try with and without dark optimisation. With modern eos's, we get better results without dark frames of any type. As above, YMMV. Summary: flat and bias frames with a 10 or so pixel dither between each light frame. Stack with linear clip or similar. Cheers

w: write Allow the folder where the log is found to be written to. What's the permission on that folder?

Make sure you have w on: ~/.local/share/kstars/logs

Hi Lovely shot. Nice to see it fill the frame. The cc just needs to be an extra mm or so further from the sensor. Don't forget to choose verbose logs for both indi and the mount and to write the results to a file. Until you get a log, perhaps best to simply have the mount park at a given time at the end of your session. HTH

M16 with a daytime camera? I'd rather collect the maximum amount of light. A UHC removes a lot of it. Adjust the stars if you need to when you process the image. With your fov, they aren't going to be too intrusive anyway. Just our €0 02 so hey, try with and without. HTH

Hi The amount of light collected by your 200pds is independent of the ISO you set. M16 with an unmodified eos800 is not going to be easy, but give yourself a better chance by losing the UHC and dithering between your 5 minute frames. The best compromise with the 24mp sensor is iso800. But try 1600 too. Cheers

Yeah, of course. But the uhc filters are available under €30 (AliExpress) and serve not only to enhance the blue/green, they also prevent the field being awash with stars. Keep some unfiltered frames (a few of 30s will do it) if you want to restore star colour. Cheers

We prefer the UHC over the l-enhance. The former producing vibrant green/blue rather than lifeless pastel turquoise. Cheer and HTH

Hi Not sure if this is as @wulfrundescribes above, but isn't this just a case of hamming a length of copper pipe into the ground and attaching a wire between it and a tripod leg using (Spanish: abrazaderas) round clips? Wet the ground around the copper with salty water. Cheers.

+1

Hi Well captured. Some lovely colour and detail. Cheers

1100d? I wouldn't recommend dark frames of any kind. Bias and flat frames, a big dither in-between each light frame followed by stacking with a decent implementation of a clipping algorithm is the best we can get with Canon DSLRs. Especially the older models. Try with and without to see for yourself? To have more control over calibration and stacking, try Siril. It also has a good dark optimization routine if you find that your sensor responds to it. HTH

Hi everyone There's no point in trying to sleep with the night temperature as it is, so it's out with the cool beer. To ensure that the sensor doesn't get too hot of course. Around an hour before the end of darkness, the air stream swung around and damp easterlies threw up haze and less than decent guiding. Hence we curtailed the session at under 4 hours. I don't think the background is as even as this processing suggests, but it's too hot to do a search to find out. DSLR users, do have a go. This one is quite easy. Thanks for looking. eos700d en gso203 filtro UHC

Yeah, good luck. I hope it's clear for you. I agree with you on the light pollution. For faint stuff, it just has to be dark. We have however had some success from small towns, but only for the bright bit in the centre of the nebula.