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About Shimonu

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  1. I would say to generally go for shorter focal length which then means longer exposures are possible. When I started with just a tripod it took a me quite a few tries before I learned what worked. Use the 500 rule together with the crop factor of your camera. So divide 300 with your focal length and you'll get a reasonable idea of what length exposure you can take. Experiment to find what works, that includes the ISO which can safely be kept at 800 or 1600 I would guess. Then start collecting lights, keep making sure your target is in the frame and focus is good and just get as many lights as y
  2. Ah, I haven't looked at it so what you've found is probably true
  3. A DSLR shouldn't stop you in any way I don't think. I've used my DSLR for polar alignment in Ekos and I think Sharpcap has a similar method. The camera will be clicking a bit to show the update but it's perfectly doable. If you've got a guiding solution you can use that camera too.
  4. I realized the cold is a bigger problem than I thought. When it starts to dip below -10 things aren't surviving very long. It's quite frustrating as we're having quite a few nights now with clear weather but the temperatures are also approaching -15 and below without wind chill. I can dress pretty warm but it's quite difficult keeping the rig running. My powertank(really a starter battery) shows half charge pretty quick and the laptop won't survive past polar alignment.
  5. Yeah I'm pretty frequently in Stellarium so I know what fits. The issue is rather what's going to be detected by the sensor as I've been surprised a few times. I don't have PS but I do fiddle a bit with GIMP and maybe I can do something similar there. Otherwise I use AstroPixel Processor.
  6. I once made an attempt at the Soul I believe with a 2 or 3 minute exposure to see what I could get but it barely registered so I'm wondering how good signal I could actually get. As this target is also pretty much straight up it's somewhat affected by the light pollution from the city, at least in the location I normally go to. So I would probably prefer something like the Rosette which is semi-high in the sky and to the south. Unfortunately I have some light pollution in that direction so it's not ideal. I've tried 5 minutes on the elephant trunk and I didn't see any nebulosity at a q
  7. I've got my EOS 700D and WO Z73 and I always get very hesitant about which targets I should go for. A few times I've gone out deciding for a target but once I try an exposure for maybe 3-5 minutes nothing really shows up. Maybe it's the light pollution or perhaps it was the moon last time. But I've got a few clear nights without any moon coming up so I'd like to know what a good target could be. I've been thinking about the Rosette nebula perhaps, I've got the best sky to the south and I'm at about Lat 58. I've done the obvious targets like M42 and M45 recently as well as the horsehead althoug
  8. Would also like to know the reasoning. This 50% figure really made me question my plan to get a cooled OSC.
  9. Do you use any dew heaters and do you remember what it was like during the session? I'm no expert but dew seems pretty possible.
  10. It doesn't quite fit the budget yet to jump to a cooled OSC but I wanted to get some input on what to think about. Right now I've got a Canon 700D modified with a WO Z73 including flattener. I know I should make sure the pixel size and focal length are a good combination. Would the back focus be wrong after just swapping? The WO Z73 has an adjustable flattener, could this be used to adapt to any change? I've had my eye on the IMX533 sensor which seems to have pretty good specs at a good price, just not sure which brand yet. What things should I check or will I need to keep in mind wh
  11. Yep, that was it! I had messed it up and changed the port to the indi server. Thanks a bunch!
  12. I hear a lot of great things about PHD2 so I've been trying to get it working but it doesn't seem to want to connect properly. Perhaps I'm missing something. So I've at least determined that Ekos is using the right port. I tried changing and got errors about connecting. What I'm seeing from in the Ekos logs though are some PHD2 JSON errors about illegal values. But they're regarding the Dome Simulator or GPS Simulator which I'm not using. So I'm not sure where that is coming from. I don't see anything about that in the PHD2 debug logs. Example of error in Ekos If I try go
  13. Generally electronics do well down to -40 without issue. The problem I think is with the battery where its chemistry changes and can't give the correct voltage at lower temperature. So being plugged to a power source should be okay assuming you otherwise protect it from humidity and water/melting frost.
  14. I left the box open and just had a blanket around the laptop while it was closed. But this was just an initial test, I know some make holes in it so you can more easily place the laptop in the box and run the cables through the hole.
  15. I've had trouble with the battery dying after about an hour in freezing temperatures and once it starts again it will say it has plenty(80%+). So yesterday I brought a bin and a blanket that I put the laptop in once everything was ready and capturing. I also turned off any power saving options and changed the settings so I could close the lid without turning anything off. It kept going just fine this time and instead the camera ran out of battery. I have an Asus Ultrabook so it's a complete metal body which certainly helps it get cold.
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