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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. alacant
    Thanks. Good to know. Next problem is that it doesn't reach focus with a dslr. Even with an 11mm Canon t-ring, there's not enough outward travel on the focuser. As I'm using the Aplanatic cc I can't use an extension tube so I'm gonna need a collar which slides over the cc to push the camera further out from the focuser, or take pot luck tightening the focuser without pushing the cc fully home. Why they've put the secondary so close to the primary, I've no idea. Close to giving up. Surely, it can't be this difficult! Any ideas anyone? Cheers and clear skies.
  2. alacant
    Ahhgghh... Same setup. Try as I may, I CANNOT balance this thing! I also made long dovetails to match yours. It's the dslr which upsets the balance. I tried with a shorter dovetail and the camera hanging downwards -my usual position to lower the centre of gravity- but then I cannot push the tube far enough in the rings because the focuser fouls the dovetail. So the camera has to be to one side: that's the issue. Get it balanced in one orientation and a few degrees later and it's unbalanced once again. Short Newtonians with dslrs hanging off the side? Anyone? Cheers and clear skies.
  3. alacant
    Hi. This is the first time I've visited here. I see only discussion. How do I enter? Cheers and clear skies.
  4. alacant
    Hi. It just works. It uses the same soft- and firm- ware as the asi120; you can upgrade/downgrade using the native software and firmware from the zwo site. I also have use of an asi120 and with the standard drivers installed, it's a drop-in replacement. I have the monochrome version and am using it in an OAG; guidestars not a problem. HTH.
  5. alacant
    Ooo, careful; you'd be dangerously close to the rod which bears against the flat on the tube allowing only a few -if any- mm of outward movement. 2cm leaves you a more useful cerca-15mm of outward movement. HTH.
  6. alacant
    Hi. No need for engineering or dismantling, just a hacksaw. If you wind it out too far then just push it back in again. HTH.
  7. alacant
    Wonderful. Amazing you got so close!
  8. alacant
    This depends upon your guide scope pixel size. Here is mine at 240mm and with a zwo120 to give a -up to- 15px dither on the 130pds. Saludos.
  9. alacant
    Hi. Here's mine, but remember that it's the imaging app where the dither is organised. HTH anyway.
  10. alacant
    Hi. OK, even easier. Simply stop the motor for a random number of seconds -try around 5- in between each frame. Don't forget to take bias and flat frames. Then stack with median or Sigma-clip. HTH.
  11. alacant
    Hi. To be able to dither, APT needs to be connected to the mount and thus be able to issue commands to control it. Sorry if I've misunderstood. I thought you were after a manual solution.
  12. alacant
    On my 700d: dark frames introduce more noise. Light, flat and bias with a 10 pixel -random- dither work well. Stack with median. HTH.
  13. alacant
    The moon restricted me to 4 1/2 minute snaps, but enough excuses. Inspired by another post here, I centred similarly. It's gonna need another session but with the moon tonight, I'm guessing I'd be down to 3 minutes. Time to go for clusters again instead...
  14. alacant
    Yes. At the end of each exposure, nudge the mount a tiny random amount in a random direction using the arrow keys on your hand controller. To help the mount settle again, set a 30s pause between snaps. HTH.
  15. alacant
    Hi. I've an Optolong clip CLS for my 700d which I used to take this. It needed longer exposures, but the detail was better. I think the UHC is narrower still. HTH.
  16. alacant
    700d. Annoying star artefacts; uneven star halos, two on brighter stars... I think it's the cheepo 2 element coma corrector. Planning to follow it up to the meridian tonight. If anyone could confirm, otherwise or WHY, that would be great. Cheers and clear skies.
  17. alacant
    At APS-c size, it's a must. Maybe using only the centre of the field on a small ccd, I think you'd be fine. HTH.
  18. alacant
    Hi. I have the ar80s. Great for wide field AP such as Andromeda. Certainly beats sw's miserably slow doublet offerings! Cheers and clear skies.
  19. alacant
    Hi. I don't think the focus or exposure is bad, but the stars are 'x' shaped or perhaps composed of 5 separate exposed dots. Solid ground, wind, walking around the tripod legs during the exposure... Loadsa stuff to check. It may just be the one light frame and I'd put good money on a stack with all the frames you took would look fine. HTH.
  20. alacant
    Nice result. I think for targets such as these, they're good.
  21. alacant
    Hi. Modified Canon 700d, 34 off 3, 4 and 5 minute -as the moon got lower- light frames, keeping the histogram low at around 25%, ISO800. HTH.
  22. alacant
    IC1396 en cefeo. I tried this before without a filter but got a flat nebula which was hard to process. This is an experiment with a CLS; easier and there's more detail. Any comments most welcome, especially from anyone who has used CLS with the 130. Clear skies and thanks for looking. ** oh, and the streak. A bit of a mystery as it doesn't appear on any of the light frames. There's always something....
  23. alacant
    Hi. Tremendous effort and wonderful detail. I took a couple of bumps out of the red curve. May help a bit with the balance? But hey, icing... HTH and clear skies.
  24. alacant
    25 light frames of 4 minutes. The framing is quite easy. With a conventionally positioned focuser, set the camera at right angles to the focus knobs; almost an exact diagonal. HTH.
  25. alacant
    M31: Canon 700d. What a pity we don't have quite enough FOV to fit it all in. Which gives the perfect excuse not to bother collecting any more data for the faint dust at the edges! Thanks for looking and clear skies.
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