alacant
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Everything posted by alacant
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LOL! Yeah. For all the words, at the end of the day you really have to be an expert to be able to distinguish the images from one cc to another. The good old €50 swcc -screw it into any dslr and it just works- is just as good if not better than any of the others. These days, you don't need a ParaCorr. You use your software to produce the same effect;)
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One which isn't messed up by middlemen e.g. straight from the factory's outlet where it's made. HTH **It comes with comprehensive installation and spacing instructions which work out of the box. Now there's a first for coma correctors!
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No. Get the proper Hungarian variety. HTH.
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Dunno. The methods I've tried are: 1. mpcc - Baader t2 adaptor - t2 ring - camera 2. mpcc - m48 ring - camera At both 55 and 53mm. The only one I could get working without xs vignetting was method 2. HTH.
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??? The m48 connection works fine. It just needs a m48 to camera ring. Screw it home, it sits square and avoids the dark corners on the light frames. Any tilt placing it in the focuser however and you've had it. Which reminds me... ...+1 for the idiotic undercut on the Baader; I needed to remove the lining in the 2" adaptor so they the screws bore directly onto the surface of the cc, otherwise it 'pushes' itself outwards as the band is tightened against it. Hopeless! HTH and clear skies. ** the gpu can threaded only in its original configuration, not after sw have ruined it.
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Hi. Was there ever a solution or answer to this? I just installed a 1mm thick clip filter. Is this enough to make a difference to the cc spacing? TIA.
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Hi. Yeah, the link I posted includes a 30mm ring which should be fine: low profile eos > 30mm m48 > GSOcc > telescope. The main problem with the GSO is that it needs over 5cm of front focus at the recommended 75mm spacing so you may need an extension tube to reach focus. HTH.
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Hi. 20mm should do it for a dslr. HTH.
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Hi. With your diffuse light source as described above, set to Av. Depress the shutter far enough to get a shutter speed reading. Now flip back to M with the same speed you just recorded in Av. Fire away; 20 snaps work well. If you're using the sky, work quickly. You'll almost certainly need to decrease the shutter speed for the flat frames in comparison with that which you used for the light frames. HTH.
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You need an eos to m48 adaptor. If you can find one with 10mm thickness, that gives you 54mm; no room for a filter other than on the end of the cc. If you're going it alone, the best place to start would be with this giving 45mm, leaving you to find the impossible; an 8mm m48 spacer. Or, just leave the problem with TS. They'll send you what you need;) HTH.
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It's a good example of the price hike which I mentioned. Before it became public knowledge on another forum, the very same cc was a fraction the price it is now quoted. **Edit. BTW, your working distance is going to be 52.5mm. I'd be cheeky and ask TS to include the required spacers for you, otherwise that's your next nightmare. HTH.
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The worse that can happen is 'D' shaped stars. It's not brilliant at f5 but still beats the competition hands down. Didn't realise your budget ran to it, otherwise we could have ended this many posts ago! HTH.
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I'd put good money on a lot of users switching after you post images taken using that. TS stand to get rich!
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That's no fun. No, it just has to be the 102/13.5 or bust! [1]. HTH. [1] and a sandbag for your mount until the eq6 arrives;) -
Mi If I do that, the price will rise overnight! There's not much to be saved anyway. Dunno. Mine has no ID or markings; compare that description to how my seller described it. I think it's like all astro stuff. Wholesalers buy from China, mark up to retailers, they too mark up and we end up paying a fortune for it. It's worth scouring AliExpress though. There are still small outlets who still don't know what the rest of the world are paying. HTH.
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pds + gso?
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Hi. I am imaging at 150mm f5 and 208mm f3.9. I would be surprised if the cc does not work just as well with the pds. HTH.
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No, I can't say because I shouldn't be here as I don't have a 130pds. I just wanted to try and ease the confusion shared about ccs. I just know that the Chinese cc works fine on my 150/750 and 208/812. The fit and protrusion is the same. The reason the sw protrudes into the tube is that it needs 20mm more inward focus. HTH
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Here it is. My telescope comet kit adaption connector eyepiece with 2".
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I have a 150mm and even with a proper 2 1/2" r&p focuser it flexed, especially noticeable at low dec near the horizon where the turning force is radial rather than longitudinal. But Louise confirms it's ok with a pds so that should be fine. Stars are superior when compared with the Baader too, but it magnifies the image which IMHO defeats the object of having a wide field telescope. In the end, I sent back the TS, got a Baader, sent that back -something about the elements being the wrong way making the coma worse- and got a cheap cc from aliexpress; perfect!
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You can see it here. The main problem is the amount of front focus it needs. It's right on the limit of my reflector. Even if it will reach focus, I wouldn't like to guess if the pds focuser will hold a dslr satisfactorily at that distance. HTH.
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Hi. The 102/13.5 has the 2 1/2" (metal) focuser and what looks like a proper dovetail. Dunno, if you're not satisfied you could always upgrade. Bresser are great when it comes to customer service; you get to speak with someone who knows about telescopes. Just a thought. Edit: talking of sublime refractors, they've also just released a 102ed f4.5. Around €260.
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Nah. He's got it all worked out. He grabs his eq8 (steel tripod model) with the other hand and away he goes. Sorted.
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The ideal grab-n-go telescope...
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Hi. Have you tried PHD2's new predictive PEC algorithm? It's out of beta testing and available as a development build. HTH.
