Peter Drew

I was in no way disputing such claims for this observation any more than those of the HH, Sirius Pup or central star of the Ring Nebula. I was more commenting on the apparent shift from "impossible" to relative commonplace of these observations over the decades. Equipment and general observing skills have definitely improved but one would have thought that much would have been negated by light pollution and other modern impacts on seeing conditions. 🙂

Interesting. My astronomical interest goes back far in time when the Pleiades nebulosity was considered visible only by the amateur photography performance available at that time. Nowadays, this feature seems to be visually observable through small telescopes and even 8x42 binoculars under ideal conditions. Has the nebulosity become brighter or were earlier observations, usually dismissed as light dew on the optics, actually valid? 🙂

I've got two different ones somewhere, both inexpensive. One is much better than the other, can't remember which, will try and check tomorrow. Biggest downside, IMO, is that they have too many stars, it's like being in a desert on a good night, very difficult to identify normally familiar areas.

Be aware that the Met Office idea of sunny is often different to that which solar observers require. Today, locally was forecast to be sunny which it was, but so hazy it wasn't worth setting a telescope up. ☹️

It's too good to show me! or it's a problem with the page. 🙂

I think the secondary figures are a bit misleading with regards to planetary performance. The full aperture still retains the potential resolution, the obstruction just reduces the contrast and for imaging purposes this can be mitigated by number of frames taken and processed. 🙂

Long sighted issues can usually be sorted by focusing, no need for glasses. Floaters can be mitigated by using binoviewers. 🙂

Close, but I can see the floor down the middle! 🙂

I would start again from scratch with collimation. Use the Meade visual back straight through with the eyepieces and nail the collimation with the test star as central as possible and always use a counter clockwise approach to the focus. Next add the focal reducer and check that the image still has the same collimated appearance, ccw approach as before. Continue the process with all additional components. 🙂

I would if I could find it, and something to measure it with. 🙂

I've not seen anything yet that I would class as messy, the first photo describes my desk after tidying. You may remember that hands down I won the untidiest workshop challenge a few years ago. 🙂

I've used a similar technique using sand, sawdust or fine aluminium filings. Breaking up a black surface is really effective, specially on the inside of baffle tubes in small Maksutovs/SCT's which tend to be very reflective. 🙂

I would use an SDS if I had one. 🙂

I've always managed with a standard B&D drill with hammer option. I just drill a small pilot hole and then open it up with larger bits to size. 🙂

I have a German 10x80 Flak binocular. They are very heavy compared to modern 80's. They have wonderful wide angle independent focusing eyepieces and surprisingly false colour free images considering that they are faster than F4. 🙂

Have you never read Amazon telescope reviews? 🙂

I think experimentation is the key. As for GOTO performance, the Moon is probably the hardest thing for the system to point to accurately as the Moon's motion is very complex. Fortunately it is usually bright enough to be found unaided. 🙂

Three that I paid for spring to mind. A 5" F15 APO triplet in a brass cell by Ross of London £15, 8.5" F12.5 achromat in an aluminium cell £500 and a 16" SCT £5000 complete with Gigawedge that itself would be £1800 new. 🙂

Check the screws holding the finder mount. They are directly over the edge of the moving primary mirror. If too long they can catch on the edge and impart enough pressure to cause astigmatism. It has been known to happen! 🙂

The second Saturn "WOW" is when you point out that the dot in the sky is actually Saturn and that you can actually see it naked eye. 🙂

"Droolworthy" is largely governed by one's interest. A large SCT is probably the best telescope for outreach, my main interest. A 16" SCT for this purpose would be my "drewlworthy" telescope if I hadn't already got two of them! 🙂

I don't have an Oberwerk XL binocular telescope but I have several self built models and I can tell you that a binocular telescope suitable for wide field and planetary is not going to be easily portable and will also be expensive. A single telescope is likely going to fit the bill and can have a binoviewer attached if using both eyes is your preference.

It's the WOWS in these circumstances that keep me motivated. Keep up the good work! 🙂

I also have one and agree with the good features. As well as the downside of the price, it doesn't really look like a Dobsonian. 🙂

I've made several binoscopes using SW 150 F8 and F5 Startravel achromats. The images show a F8 version. I used the original cells so did not measure the edge thickness.