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Size9Hex

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Size9Hex last won the day on September 29 2016

Size9Hex had the most liked content!

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About Size9Hex

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    Hampshire, UK
  1. Nice one Neil. SGL is a great place and all the more so with your posts. Keep ‘em coming. For March 2021, are we looking at 6 scopes, 32 eyepieces and 20 filters then?
  2. Really like this topic. If "useful" means useful for getting you excited in seeing and learning what’s up there, the minimum aperture is your eyes and anything above that is a bonus! I used 50mm binos for months before getting a scope and they revealed loads. It was this aperture that gave me my ongoing enthusiasm for the hobby. The step up from the naked eye was utterly enormous. As others say, this is dependent on the skies by at least somewhat dark. If the binos had been a 50mm scope with potential for high mag, then even better!
  3. While I love the view in my frac, I reckon I’d go for a large sensible sized dob too. It just pulls in so many more things than a smaller scope. Currently got a 10" in this role which might or might not change one day, but I think it’ll always boil down to what’s the largest sized dob I could quickly load into the car and drive somewhere dark.
  4. Great report. I can relate to it with a galaxy session last year during which I got pretty excited at a possible discovery! In case you’ve not spotted it already, there’s a DSS viewer within Sky Safari itself that’s useful for this - I use it a lot for comfirming marginal observations in general too. Really useful feature.
  5. Nice report. Your 8" should be capable of splitting stars inside 1", subject to seeing conditions, good collimation, well cooled scope, and the "right’ stars - equal brightness, not too faint, not too bright, high in the sky. Give it a go! Theta Auriga is very uneven in brightness so it’s harder, but your scope should get it. In the real world, my 10" has never got near its theoretical limit, but splits very close to 1" are doable on a good night and your 8" should be pretty similar I’d bet.
  6. Really enjoyed your report. Have seen the chain of stars you describe many times; It always catches the eye, but I had no idea it had a name. Like it. I’ve learned something new!
  7. Pretty cool. A very brief chance to spot the Pup perhaps!
  8. With my 2" diagonal and various eyepieces, both 1.25 and 2", it focuses with no extension. With a 1.25" solar wedge, it’s ok too. Great little scope. If anything, I feel it’s lacking a little on inward focus rather than outward.
  9. I’ve used an Oiii to tighten up the view in an achro. It really improved the view. In my ED, I don’t need it, but often use a polariser to dim it which make a subtle difference in improving the detail. So for me, the benefit of the Oiii is in removing false colour. The Oiii was the filter I already owned, and I suppose it’s nice in some way that it’s a similar green to the continuum. Edit... In comparison, the Continuum is about using the optimal wavelength to show the most detail in any scope. I can’t find the link at the mo, but I saw a blog post from a chap who took a few like for like images comparing Oiii vs Continuum. The Continuum was better, particularly for granulation, but not so much that it would make me rush to buy one - though I probably will when the sun gets a bit more active again in coming years. I’d say use what you’ve got to start with. A wedge (and your Oiii to dim the view if you want) will show you a lot.
  10. Welcome to the forum. Good advice from John. It’s easy to buy stuff that you don’t end up using. A 10, 16 and 25mm is a pretty decent starting point in my experience and I’d suggest getting used to what these can do before buying more. I started with a 10 and 25mm in my 250PX. The next gaps I filled were 14 and 6.7mm. From experience, I could picture your 25mm being used a lot for star hopping and for big DSOs, your 16mm being great for DSOs generally (my 14mm lives in my scope almost permanently for this) and your 10mm for when you need a bit more power. These have you well covered, although there is a bit of a gap in your line up for something a bit more powerful. With a light polluted area, I wouldn’t rush into a very low power like 34mm. With some eyes-on experience with your kit under the night sky though, you’ll make better decisions about new kit that will suit you and your observing style - a lot of it is personal preference rather than right/wrong. Hope this helps. Enjoy the new toy!
  11. Some great answers above, but I’ll add another thumbs up for the 250PX which was my first scope a few years ago and I can see it staying for around for the foreseeable future. It’s fine for folks at 5’6". Don’t let collimation worries put you off. It’s not tricky to do and once you’ve got the hang, it only takes a minute. It holds collimation well too - most sessions it doesn’t need fettling at all.
  12. Big thanks again to everyone that has replied and the interesting discussions that followed. So just an update... and success! I had the Binoviewer out again last night with a bit more time to fettle it and try out the suggestions. Seems that although the eyepiece holders are self-centring with compression rings, there’s still a small amount of play with the eyepieces I was using (stock Skywatcher Super MA 25 and 10mm). Reseating them very slightly and rotating each eyepiece in turn to bring the double images closer until they were eventually overlaid did the job. So, I’m pretty happy with the set up. Dare I say, can’t wait for the moon to reappear! Although, M42 was again utterly superb through the binoviewer last night, even unfiltered. The double cluster too.
  13. Great session and great report. The cocoon is one of my favourite galaxies to return to in my 10". Your 12" should be even better of course. The dynamics of the two are easily seen, stretching and distorting each other, clearly lopsided, although it appears frozen in time through the eyepiece.
  14. My 10x50s are fairly light. Even so, they are miles better mounted. The stability increases the resolution enormously, which is beneficial for anything requiring it - lunar, double stars, clusters, phase of Venus, Saturn’s rings, etc. Less important on nebulae and general Milky Way scanning etc. Enjoy the new kit!
  15. I think you’re right about the conditions after the rain being improved. I don’t know if it washes the sky or perhaps is just a new cleaner air mass ploughing in. Either way, sometimes the sky just appears a particularly rich blue after a good rain, or sometimes just strong winds, which is always a great sign. The warm settled weather in summer does often seems a bit hazy. There was a strong cold (north west?) wind during the session, which I guess was bringing in dry clean air from the ocean which should be as clean as it gets. Wasn’t comfortable to be out in though!
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