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GuLinux

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About GuLinux

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Website URL
    http://blog.gulinux.net

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ealing, London, UK
  1. Yes, I guess we all agree about the ASIAir, we were just talking about possible alternatives
  2. Although there's no autoguider support, an alternative is my app, AstroPhoto Plus (https://astrophotoplus.gulinux.net/), which is more a browser app than mobile (though the app works fine on mobile browsers too, of course). Autoguiding will be implemented in the next release, and in the meantime you can still use PHD2 on a remote desktop I suppose
  3. Hi all, I wanted to share with you the first major release of my astrophotography software: AstroPhoto Plus (previously called StarQuew, I already introduced a first beta release here). It's the perfect choice for compact setups with relatively simple needs, and goes along very well with Raspberry Pi (and similar boards), and Intel Compute Sticks. Here's the release link: https://github.com/GuLinux/AstroPhoto-Plus/releases/tag/v1.0.0 I also created a dedicated website with some tutorials and installation quick guides: https://astrophotoplus.gulinux.net/ Please let me know your feedback
  4. Hi, this is my first design 100% from scratch. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3353442 It's a simple flat field box, very compact, and particularly suited for small lenses/telescopes (though it can probably be scaled well enough, as long as you increase the number of leds). It consists of a base with led strips glued on it, a single spacer (with a hole to let the cables pass), then another 3 spacers with paper glued on top of them, to act as diffusers, and a final perspex panel to diffuse light further and more evenly. Then I did design a couple of caps, one with a simple hole that has to fit the external diameter of your telescope, so it can fit through, the second with some sort of threaded slit. You can fit a lens step up ring on it, so your lens will just screw onto the cap. Print quality and wiring are a bit messy, I need to reprint it indeed, but initial testing seems to show the flat field is indeed quite flat. I also use a simple arduino light dimmer to turn on and off and dim the light via serial console commands, but it can work very well even on its own (in my case using 12V batteries). (*note*: yes, some of the pictures in the link show the leds even through the diffusers, but these are the pictures taken only after I put respectively the first and second diffusers only.)
  5. These compute sticks are really handy. I bought a couple of these, and measuring power usage with camera and filter wheel attached I barely got to 1 amp. I had a test indoors, with the camera continuously shooting, and changing filter every now and then. The power bank lasted for nearly 48 hours. Of course battery performance outdoors (in cold weather) might suffer quite a bit, but it's still gonna last a while, I'd think
  6. WOW! I'm a bit skeptical though. It might be something that happens only on my setup, but I need to be very careful and delicate with tightening the RA lock, otherwise I risk messing with the polar alignment. I think that wrench might take it a step further..
  7. Interesting thread. Sorry if I go slighly off topic, but do you know from where I could draw a 5v power line from the SA circuit? directly from the regulator perhaps? I'd like to to a minor modding, adding an embedded polarscope illuminator instead of using the external one.
  8. Just an FYI, solar system updates are builtin in KStars (which is also available also for Windows and OSX, not only Linux)
  9. Really stunning, congrats I really have to get myself up to work, I need to catch up with these results
  10. Hi, I couldn't find specific information about that scope OTA weight, but my guts say it's probably too heavy. Additionally, although these newtonians are excellent first scopes, they're not very useful as astrophotography scopes: there's probably too much coma, and I doubt you'll be able to get focus with a DSLR, as the focus excursion is typically very short. Furthermore, a focal length of 500mm starts to be way too much for a star adventurer, particularly if not autoguided. And of course, adding an autoguider will add even more weight.
  11. In theory, the "how" is very easy: just add a resistor in series. Not sure about the value, but you can do a few tests until it satisfies you. The only problem is that I don't think there's gonna be a lot of space to put the resistor in, so you'd have to keep this dangling wire + resistor out of it.
  12. I think there are a couple of newspapers in Italy that made the same assumption (about Uranus I mean). But that's nothing, as the last lunar eclipse was approaching, they also said the moon was going to be red because of Mars being so close
  13. Just be aware of what version you get: the "Super Takumar SMC" (super multi coated) is probably ok, and I've seen gorgeous pictures done with it, but I got the older version instead (I think it's called only "Super Takumar", non SMC) and I got massive chromatic aberration and stars bigs as baloons.
  14. Pretty much everything in my github repo https://github.com/GuLinux/ Mainly using c++, python and Javscript (React) as frontend. I'd say the highlights are StarQuew, PlanetaryImager and SkyPlanner
  15. Slightly off topic, I'd really like to understand how reliable is the load capacity rating on tripods. Sometimes they just feel like they put random-ish numbers on them, sturdy tripods rated at 5/10KG, and much cheaper and lightweight tripods rated at 15. Mine (neweer carbon fiber) is rated 15KG, and although it's quite stable, I don't think that number can be taken too seriously.
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