Stub Mandrel
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Everything posted by Stub Mandrel
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No i chopped the end off the focus tube. I think I must have the two-part adaptor, it has a T2 thread on it and I can't see how you would use it with the EP tube sticking out the middle! I can turn up a new holder from a lump of ally, or maybe knock 1/2" off the existing one, which should be ample.
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Its a 2" to 1.25" adaptor that hold the EP about 1 1/2" further out than a 2" EP would be.
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So impressed by the moon views through my finder I thought I'd pop an EP in the 130P-DS. I can't rack the focuser in enough to get focus! Even with a barlow! (Yes I've had it about eight months and this was my first attempt at looking through it!) I'm not going to move the mirror - I don't want the focuser tube to give me funny stars again. Perhaps I can find a shorter 1.25" ep holder.
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Sorry, I didn't mean my comment to come across as critical
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You really should have specified black PLA - still it takes paint well.
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Background
Stub Mandrel commented on Filroden's blog entry in Getting started with an EQ mount from the perspective of an Alt/Az imager
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I posted this last night as a 'smash and grab' as I only had 31 subs before a cloud white-out and nearly half of those were useless because of haze/cloud. I retook my flats and got a better result, still a bit noisy, but hey, it was two months wait for that 60-minute session!
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SGL Imaging Challenges
Stub Mandrel replied to admin's topic in Imaging Challenge #1 - Satellites (Now Closed)
If we had started with 'cloud' it might have been a bit easier Just to confirm natural satellites count as per NASA. -
I'm waiting for a parcel too... for my wife
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A good start! You can get more out of your data. I upped the gamma quite a lot, then moved the dark point until the background was dark again. I then duplicated the image as second layer, which I set to screen. If you 'pre stretch' in DSS by aligning the histograms, steepening the luminance curve and then moving the steep part you should get more out than this (yes this is your data!):
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Ah! Forgive me but it's stepper not steeper - steeper relates to angles so I thought it was for tilting the focuser!
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I found this 3D version of a Buzz Aldrin footprint from the Apollo 11 mission on Thingiverse, I need to tidy up the painting a bit:
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I've downloaded it, but I'm not sure what it's for?
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Thanks - once I know what the issue is I can at least work round it
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The one time I've had this be a problem was the flame and horsehead where each sub had a 'ghost' of Alnitak as a blue patch diagonally opposite the star, which stretched into a faint blue blur (as the exact centre of the image moved over 3 hours) after stacking. I assume this is the sort of thing you mean?
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No 2016 showcase?
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Deep sky imaging showcase 2016
Stub Mandrel replied to Uranium235's topic in Imaging - Showcase Threads
Cripes, it's a challenge to upload anything after seeing that lot, especially the narrowband stuff! Still here we go, some of the highlights from my second year at this game, see signature for gear ... -
Well I meant 'Mural Quadrant' actually...
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This needs to go down in the great store of 130P-DS lore!
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My last attempt in the other thread went horribly wrong... you two have images that trump mine, but I'm fairly happy with the Mercury Contact GIF, considering it was with a £70 Lidl scope!
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We need a 'show us your Quadrant' thread
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I'll miss your posts in this thread Ken. You may be 'upgrading' but the point is that Alt-Az allowed you to get some brilliant images without having to risk your shirt, hopefully eth pics left here will encourage others to have a go with what they've got rather than think they can never afford to try AP.
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That does look just like pictures of 'pinched optics' that I have seen - have never seen this first hand though.
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Thinner layers mean it takes longer to print, so 100 micron will take twice as long as 200 - hence the extra cost. 200 micron (0.2) is fine for anything where surface finish is unimportant. 0.1mm is a good finish and 0.075 is excellent. I used 0.1mm for tube rings so they look nicer, but even 0.2mm looks good when done with a decent machine. 15% - 25% infill is usually plenty for strength but if it is likely to be highly stressed go up to 50%, bear in mind most of the strength of most structures is in the outer layers - reduced infill is a big plus for 3D printing.
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Cheap gear has 'sloppy fits' posh gear has 'dual threads'
