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Everything posted by bomberbaz

  1. Thanks to you all @stash_old @roelb @vlaiv for your pictures and input. I think I will do nothing for now and try to learn skills better than I currently have. If you are managing such good images then with a bit of practice I should hopefully be able to improve my own results. It is things like this that confuse me vlaiv, one of the stated resolutions on the FLO page for the asi224 is this "1304×976 150fps / 64fps", which is nothing like 1.29"/px as you stated above. Is this a simple calculation to work out? Cheers all Steve
  2. Ok thanks for that, I think I am getting a better idea of where you are coming from now. Still not 100% but understanding a little more. Do you think a read of every photon counts would help? That is a cracking image, although you also have star bloating which I get when I try DSO imaging, interesting. Which galaxy is it btw Vlaiv, fireworks?
  3. Thanks for the reply Vlaiv. I wasn't thinking of replacing the 224mc, I was thinking of adding the 183 uncooled for the larger FOV also I thought it would be more sensitive than the 224 due in the main to having more pixels per area on sensor so overall being a little better for DSO's I have cheap reducer yes and I had considered it but wasn't sure how effective it would be overall. As confused as ever now (Nice work on the crescent btw)
  4. Hello everyone and hope your all well. I have a couple of questions regarding my existing ASI224MC and a possible new ZWO camera. I currently have a 224MC and i have so far enjoyed using it a very lot. I have played around with and got good lunar and planetary results with more limited success on DSO's. The other night I did some imaging of the ring nebula which I realise it a fairly easy target and then swung it around to the crescent nebula for another go at something more challenging but no matter what I did with gain or exposure it failed to show up. I was using a a 130 P-DS wi
  5. Yeah basically what they said ^^ I have a 127 mak and have had it up to quite high magnification on Mars and had some decent results on the back of it. However as Vlaiv says it is not an easy target, especially for a begginer. The moon is just coming up now and so try some moon viewing before going onto the more difficult targets. The moon can be great fun and I often spend a while on the moon before moving onto planets if conditions allow. Finally something which hasn't been mentioned, your 10mm eyepiece is not very good, you should consider changing to something better. My re
  6. what did you use to take that picture michael, was it a large-ish SCT. It's a super image.
  7. Someone has had a look at mine and added another spring but I haven't got it back to pass comment, I shall let you know what I fiind out.
  8. Hiya, I have very bad astigmatism and so started using the TV dioptrix. However although according to the chart you haVe it should be way down to under 1mm, the truth is I don't notice any difference below 2.5mm exit pupil. I actually use my 10x30 bins (3mm exit pupil) without wearing glasses. So my spotter 30mm eyepiece is used with glasses and the one eyepiece that gets lots of use has the dioptrix more or less permanently stuck to it, this being the 17mm Nikon. The only other one that I use the dioptrix for is the Apm 24MM but that's an occasional use EP. So in short, the chart i
  9. Not sure if you understand my original post but i was not referring to the old/new starsharp masks but to the starsharp mask and the william optics masks. I have added a link to the OP. steve
  10. Hello all. I am looking to get a Bahtinov mast and now FLO's website has the standard Starsharp version and the new william optics version. The WO version claims to offer a much brighter spike image (3x as much) that lends itself to easier focusing. "However", it's quite a bit more expensive than the standard black acrylic version, almost 3 times as much. On the face of it, it does sound very good. Has anyone tried both versions and is it worth the extra? This is the new William Optics version https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bahtinov-focus-masks/william-optics-bahtinov-mas
  11. Hello all, not sure if this is the right place for the question but here goes. I have a 130 P-DS and wanted to fit a SW auto focuser to it but there are two problems. 1/ According to FLO website the SW doesn't fit my OTA 2/ I don't want it permanently attached to the focuser and was looking at the pulley adaptation which i believe can be easily connected/dis-connected. Has anyone got this set up on a newt and if so, some pictures and guidance would be very much appreciated. TIA all Regards Steve
  12. Being as your using it to split doubles i would have thought the fov has less bearing on your choice than price.
  13. I have Not used the Vixen SLV but I believe they are amongst the best in the £100 bracket, a little higher in price up you get the delites which again are well reported upon but there is a lot to be said for pushing the budget that little further as per @John suggestion and going for the nagler zoom at 3-6. That's 4 eyepieces in one and I personally use a zoom in my star splitter scope due to the versatility it offers in the main. And lets be honest, you can never really go wrong with a TV eyepiece.
  14. Jut tried to do the above, the spring screw with the little nut has a sheared head, I applied next to zero pressure and it went. I am going to ask a friend to have a look for me. I am not very good with things like this at all.
  15. Hello all. I have been using a Gti Wifi mount in EQ mode to do some simple imaging or EEVA and thus far it has served me well. However now the mount has a little freeplay in the AZ axis (RA in EQ mode), when I say a little I would say its over 1 degree of extra movement. The problem this causes is accuracy has gone to pieces I am pretty sure it is out of warranty so I either fix it or I will have to look at an alternative mount. So has anyone had one to bits and can tell me how to tighten up the AZ axis please because as it is it is next to useless. Cheers Ste
  16. Baz, First off the first step is designed to get the secondary perfectly perfectly collimated (orientated) to the drawtube, once done it shouldn't need doing again. Also you need to block off the primary mirror completely to do the first step. For the second and third step re collimating the secondary to the primary and then the primary to the secondary/drawtube you still use the concenter. You can check it after with your cheshire but if you do it correctly with the conceter it should be spot on.
  17. Well I am still considering selling the laser but find myself holding back because I can still use said laser at night. However the concenter really is simplicity itself and still worth the money to me. If you wanted to try it out I am sure we could arrange something!
  18. I have a AZ GTI Wifi mount and love it. If you think you will do mainly planetary, star clusters/double stars, the moon with a view that you might go to more difficult objects later, then the 127 skymax is perfect. However if your going to want to view a full range of objects including galaxies and nebula along with the aforementioned, then maybe the same mount with a shorter F ratio newtonion will serve you better. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-az-gti-wifi/sky-watcher-explorer-130ps-az-gti.html As for accuracy, well my own findings are that it is excellent
  19. You could buy a pushto or DSC (digital setting circles) to a normal dob. Pushto and dsc very similar. tell the hand set where you want to be and it will guide you there. Very accurate, Quicker than goto and also means you do learn the sky as you go along.
  20. I have seen it rob, quite impressive although first time I saw it I was like, wow !!
  21. It was quite breezy last night but it seemed quite steady, the two pictures above were made from stacks of 50 to 500 so it can't be that bad. One thing worth pointing out is the tripod is now the 1.75 steel legged version and not the fairly basic one it came with. Also the mount is on a wedge and is flashed to EQ mode
  22. Hello all. Brief report below of the first light with new OTA and accompnying pictures I received my long waited for 130 P_DS and decided to ive it a quick whirl out. However biggest problem was the thin but plenty of murky cloud in the sky although there was also quite a bit of smoke from fireworks blowing through. A couple of pictures below of mars through the cloud. Not very good I know but I ws fighting with the exposure levels due to the murky cloud which was constantly changing in density. Anyway, the main thing I wanted to try was the new PD-S OTA out using a ASI
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