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bomberbaz

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Everything posted by bomberbaz

  1. Just realised I completely misread that Alan. I produce my spectra using a SA100 (flo sells them) and suitable mono camera.
  2. Personally I haven't used that particular app but my opinion on memory is that these days the cost is so cheap, the benefit of having the extra bandwidth for not a lot more outweighs potential savings. I bought a 7" lenovo tablet for controlling ASI Air and also my evscope, it had 2mb memory. I then pretty soon after upgraded to a teclast 10" tablet with 8gb memory. Difference in cost, 50 quid. As an example a quick search throws up tablets with 4GB memory, 80 quid, 8gm memory, £100. Both 10" screen and both 8 core processor. If your on a really tight budget, fair enough. If not so much, don't scrimp on it. Steve
  3. Hi all, I have been doing some work in the title above, link to forum post here.
  4. Hello all. I have been involved helping out Tom Field of Rspec getting together a solution for evscope users for doing spectroscopy. All contributors understand there are limitations to using a colour camera system on a AltAZ platform but from our perspectives, better to get people involved but aware of limitations (something I have been very keen to make sure potential users are aware of) than to not have people interested at all. Here is the link Capturing Stellar Spectra with your Unistellar telescope – RSpec / Real-time Spectroscopy (rspec-astro.com) As a thought, for say every 10 new users who has a bash with an evscope, you might end up with a potential scientific ground breaker of the future and I remember a certain uk politician saying at a political party conference, "half of you won't even be here in 20 years time!"
  5. Astronomik filters, the L range (1-3), I use an L2 filter, I know @AstroNebulee uses an L3. FWIW I am very happy with my L2, there are no star halos and it provides a clean image. However I don't have the L3 to run comparisons and if astronebulee comes along, he will hopefully share his thoughts on the L3!
  6. I should have also given my view on the 150p. I think it is a step too far for the AZ Gti. Not so much the weight but the length will introduce too much flex into the system although I could be wrong but that's my opinion on the matter.
  7. If you read my Heritage 130p mod thread there is a better focuser mod than ptfe tape. It simply involved 2 small pieces of loop velcro tape and gives a far better & more permanent mod to stiffen up the focuser.
  8. Thanks for the endorsement Alan, I am very pleased with the results. Time will tell if it holds together well. For spectroscopy I am using the Rspec programme. It's a very basic utility and very easy to operate. I understand there are other programmes although I believe others may be more involved and perhaps not aimed at newbs like myself. Just done a search and seems there are very many programmes available. When I am ready to move onto the next level I shall investigate this further but for now I shall stick with Rspec. Anyway, Rspec allowed me to cut my teeth in this side of things and depending on existing gear, needn't be that expensive. They also provided a very useful introduction to using the programme by video. RSpec Videos – RSpec / Real-time Spectroscopy (rspec-astro.com)
  9. I tend to agree, you have a great range of glass in that area, FL & design already, so these wouldn't offer anything new unless the glass is something amazing. However, there are often reviews on here where there are claims of increased contract, more detail etc from a certain eyepiece from provider x. But I do wonder if sometimes (some of) these reviews are tainted with wishful results on the back of significant cash outlays to (in the back of peoples minds) justify money spent when the truth is there is little, if any improvement in results! It doesn't really matter though in all honesty. If your purchase gives you pleasure, who are any of us to knock it. Enjoy it, buy new eyepiece and whatever else takes your fancy, you can't take it with you!
  10. I would like to see a diagram of the lens arrangements, a lot of the specs seem comparable with ortho/plossl design but the price tag on these seems rather high in comparison. The proof in the pudding will be someone with a good eye getting behind them but there are a few already out there (tak starbase, masuyama, baader) who are producing glass seemingly similar to these. That said, Takahashi are known for producing quality gear and this alone will probably ensure the market for these.
  11. Before I go into what I did, a bit of my rationale explained. I want to carry on in spectroscopy, learning more but without committing to too much new gear, so an OTA for now whilst I continue to cut my teeth as it were. I am using a SW AZ GTi (converted to EQ) for imaging, I want to stick with this for the time being but it has restrictions on what it can manage weightwise, SW state 5KG. The 130 P-DS is out, simply too much weight. hI had tried using a 130Mak + 0.5 reducer and played around with a celestron 130 but for various reasons, neither cut the grade. I was ready to give up when I thought about the heritage. I knew it was lighter (turns out almost a kilo) than the 130 P-DS but I identified that light intrusion, sloppy focuser and lack of dovetail were my biggest problems. So I knew @moriniboy had done similar mods in the past, now after consulting with him I set about to do similar. I got myself some stiff, black card, double sided tape, matt black sticky back plastic, a washer for the secondary and already had some spare flocking material and a vixen shoe. Also needed various tools, knife glue etc to carry this out and up front I will say, it was far more involved than I had anticipated. Ok so took the mirrors off and stored safely away, removed the existing light shield and put the double sided tape inside of the top rim of the tube to accept the lightshield and made the lightshield The lightshield is the measured & trimmed black card (think is is 300gm) with the SB plastic on outside, flocking directly behind the focuser and enough room for the double side tape left at the top. TIP: Wrap the cut to size cardboard around something of a similar diameter to OTA and leave overnight. This partially curves the board to give you a less stressed join when it comes to gluing. I used a full kitchen roll and several elastic bands. For joining the tube I use PVA glue and staples to assist with the latter removed after the former had set. I also used a good quality black insulation tape to hold the join on the outside and it stuck well to the SB plastic. Insert the rolled tube up into the OTA assembly, make sure it all marries up well then carefully remove the double sided tape backing and stick the tube to double sided tape. Without doubt this was the trickiest part of the whole operation. (TIP, I used a small clamp to hold the top part in place whilst getting the bottom started off. Deck chair peg clamps or similar would work) Blackout the white of the double sided take as best you can. I added the vixen shoe 30mm down the tube base and added 2 small strips of loop velcro into the focuser female section inbetween the gaps in the threads. This last mod is very stiff to start with but eases as it compresses more over time. Sorry about the picture here but you can just about see what I mean. Put it all back together, collimate and bob's your uncle. Nearly forgot. I bought some 15mm T5 u clips to put onto the truss parts to shorten OTA to allow camera to achieve focus, these reduce the OTA by 10mm. The intention is to leave this permanently extended from here on. I will give a first light when opportunity arises.
  12. I have visited this before and not had time to fully digest. Siril is a complex but very versatile programme. I think if I can put aside time to master the process, my results would definately improve. Right of course, well my camera generates quite a bit of amp glow and as such darks are needed. I understand there are other methods (or am I thinking of flats) but I will continue to use darks and camera being cooled, these are easier to duplicate. Cheers anyway, I shall look into the 2 pass method and reading the user guide a little more thoroughly. Steve
  13. Hello and thanks for the image and your explanations on process. Am I right in thinking that your exclusion of darks is largely down to the fact you are imaging in narrowband or is there some other reason for exclusion? Also can you explain 2 pass, I am not sure I follow? Thanks for the help as I really like the simplicity angle of your imaging. Steve
  14. I'm with the others, leave it until such a point it is undeniably dirty. That said, I used the 16" fork mounted newt at galloway AC and the secondary was truly dirty, the primary too but it still gave super sharp images of DSO's. Equal to my then spotless 14" dob. TBF, it would have benefited from a clean though.
  15. Thanks for the replies. It seems 30mm M4 are the required size, always helps to have things confirmed. Steve
  16. Hello all. Does anyone know the size of the screws for the secondary of the heritage 130 please. Also is there anything I should be aware of when swapping out for Bob's nobs! Tia Steve
  17. Oh yes, I have used regularly myself, found the nosepiece very useful for my now sold binoviewers. Don's comments around it's versatility are spot on. A barlow can save you a lot of money by making use of it's versatile nature.
  18. That seems expensive although not sure of the actual currency come to think of it, this is the same one https://www.firstlightoptics.com/barlow-eyepieces/celestron-2x-universal-125-barlow-old.html
  19. Yet here you are twice in a half hour ! 😉🤣🤣🤣
  20. Love a good barlow in any setup. Such a flexible, simple & low costing bit of kit. I still have two and always take one out with me on any field trip.
  21. It's meant to read potentially, only going of what I have heard/read or been told. If I am honest, I really don't understand these things beyond a given parameter so just go with them. I had already confirmed in the second post of mine above that I realised binning would work with the 183mm. However it now transpires that the 183mm isn't suitable for other reasons not being discussed here. So given this I think I will give the 174mm a bash as suggested by @powerlord and see how things work out. I have nothing to lose except a few hours under the stars. Cheers Steve
  22. Cheers @ONIKKINEN, After I posted I thought idiot, just bin it. But I had already made post so left it. However I altered the sampling error now, always get that mixed up. It took me 17 years to figure out my twin nephews names for goodness sake. Anyway, the Data I will be taking will be mainly for spectroscopy. I have devoted quite a lot of time to it, it's been a steep curve but I am slowly getting there and really want to get it right. I realise with a 130, anything I do manage (spectroscopy wise) it isn't going to be scientific quality data yet but getting the basics right is important before I am ready to move on to another level. Anyway, thanks for the reply. You confirmed my belated thoughts and so bed this side of things. Steve
  23. Hello all. I have recently acquired a 650 FL reflector and I already have a camera which was actually purchased to be used with another scope which didn't work out. So problem being is it is the ASI 183MM, px size is 2.4 which potentially leads to oversampling at 0.75"/px I have been offered a loan camera, the ASI 174MM, px 5.86 which gives under sampling at 1.86. So clearly neither are ideal but rather than rush out and buy a new camera, I want to test out the rest of the setup for balancing, tracking etc, you get the drift before doing so. Given the above, I am swinging towards the 174 given most of what I do is from a heavily light polluted garden but anyone else have any pointers as to which may be best suited to test out until I am ready to make a decision on a more permanent solution.
  24. That is only a little more than my AZ-GTi setup but with a significant gain in bearing capacity plus from all accounts, an improvement in tracking accuracy. It would be quite a layout but I am thinking of selling a bit of kit that would cover the cost and free up a space in the conservatory to hold it, win, win. Anyway, holiday first, decisions later. Thanks Michael, much appreciated.
  25. Looks a really nice setup Michael. I have been reading about this mount some more and it versatility / weight bearing capacity is setting me thinking I may have a use for it. As we look at it there in this picture, roughly what is the height and weight of what we see? (Minus the OTA)
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