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ArmyAirForce

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ArmyAirForce last won the day on November 16 2016

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About ArmyAirForce

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

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  • Website URL
    http://www.sacarr.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    WW2 Aviation and History, Military Vehicles, Modelmaking ( radio controlled aircraft, plastic models and railroading ), Photography.
  • Location
    North East England - Bortle Dark Sky Scale 8 to 9

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  1. My micro observatory is almost five years old now and has served me well, without any need for alterations. It's had lots of use and has been worth every penny spent, but it's time to update the story now. Hopefully within a few weeks, I'll be moving house from Washington to Durham, so it's almost time to say goodbye to my micro obsy. The move will bring a change from a Bortle 8 sky to a Bortle 5 sky. There's a much bigger garden, which after a bit of tidying and pruning, will give me a much lower view of the sky. My existing house blocks everything to the South below 25 degrees. So with
  2. On a reflector, it is "Inward-Focus" you need, not back focus. Many reflectors won't allow the focuser to move in far enough, especially with a DSLR where the sensor is deep in the body of the camera. As mentioned above, I used to have a Nikon D50, which had a TS 9mm Off Axis Guider attached onto the front of the T ring. On the front of the OAG was a 2 inch nosepiece and I had a 2in light pollution filter screwed onto the front of that. I could achieve focus on my 200PDS, but the focuser was a long way in. This resulted in the bottom of the focuser tube sticking out into the scope tube, whi
  3. In the CONTROL box of settings, there's a grey tab with a small gear wheel and MORE written on. Click on there and it should open up options for High Speed, USB traffic and a number of other settings. I think it's in there but can't be 100% sure without a camera plugged in. @Marc jacobs EDIT - Just plugged my ASI camera in. In the CONTROL box on the left of the capture screen, you have the GAIN and Exp sliders. Under that is a grey button with GAMMA and a slider. Click on the GAMMA button and a pop up menu gives other options ( Auto Exp, Auto Gain, Brightness, WRed, WBlue, USB Traffic,
  4. Seeing was poor in the North East of England on the evening of 11/12th July, but despite that, I went out to catch some planets. Jupiter and Saturn are too low in the sky for my observatory to see, so I tried a Skywatcher 130M on a motored EQ2 in the front garden. Results were as expected for targets so low ( around 12 degrees ). Mars however was going to be high enough for the observatory, so later in the night, I opened that up and started shooting in both colour and mono IR. Seeing got steadily worse through the evening and I wondered if I was going to get anything worth while, but an in
  5. Lovely image. What time of day are you shooting Venus and approximately what altitude is it? I've shot Venus both daytime and evening, but only in IR. I haven't tried daytime since buying the UV filter.
  6. I was imaging Venus the same evening and got that bright area. I wasn't sure if it was my processing, but since you've caught it too, it must be real!!
  7. The last time I remember good seeing was at Solar maximum in 2014. Since then is has gone further and further down hill. I'll be interested to see if it improves as we head back to the new solar max.
  8. I've normally found that red or Infra-red gives the best result on the Moon, unless there's lots of moisture in the air, then the IR struggles. The IR comes through the atmosphere with the least distorsion. I did this test 6 years ago. Now for the Sun in white light, Green or Solar Continuum wins out.
  9. The Baader Solar Continuum filter will enhance the white light view. Failing that, a green filter is the next best thing.
  10. Here's a white light sun spot group using Baader film. I think this was on my 8 inch reflector, possibly stopped down to a 4 inch opening ( too long ago to remember ). Daytime seeing can be a challenge, especially on a warm day. I usually try for mid morning, once the Sun has a bit of altitude, but before the heat of the day has built up.
  11. Quite subtle detail in this one, but I quite like it. It's nice to see Venus in a new light after several years of a featureless phase.
  12. Thanks for the interesting interpretation of the image. With Jupiter and Saturn too low for me to image, seeing clouds on Venus has been a fascination for some time, but I've only recently had the money to justify the filter purchase!
  13. A second Venus with clouds capture from March 20th. 20,000 UV frames were captured and 50,000 in IR. All the captures during the evening needed to be paused due to multiple passing clouds. 1,000 frames of each channel were stacked. Captures were done on my 200PDS scope with x2 TAL barlow. Despite the passing clouds, I had more time to mess around with the settings and by pushing up the UV gain to 95%, I was able to lower the exposure and speed up the capture rate to 30fps, but still very slow compared to the 263fps of the IR captures. While my laptop has an SSD to capture onto, it only has
  14. It was the Skywatcher 200PDS with TAL x2 barlow. I didn't have time to try the Televue x3.
  15. I think........I've done it. Seeing the nice blue sky late afternoon, and seeing the forecast for overcast imminently, I dashed out, popped open the observatory roof and set up my new IR/UV filter tray in the Skywatcher. After a couple of camera connection problems down to the cable, I started my first IR capture on Venus. 10,000 Infra-Red frames were captured at 136fps, then I switched to UV, re-focused, slowed down the exposure until the histogram looked ok and began capturing at a maximum of 12fps, even with very small region of interest. Despite my camera being the ASI120MM-S versio
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