Starwiz

I know only too well what a problem updates can be, but have never experienced them causing hardware faults. When I was working, several of our machines had to be disabled from receiving updates due to the software problems and loss of production they caused. One solution would be to have a dedicated computer for imaging with the updates disabled. Then once configured, you could disconnect from the internet (I disconnect anyway before imaging so I don't get any unwanted interference). But nothing wrong with using a handset if you're happy with the process. John

That's a little concerning. I wasn't aware - do you have any more info? John

I've ditched the handset, so the mount's controlled from the laptop via Cartes Du Ceil and APT, also using ASCOM and EQMOD plus PHD2. In APT for instance, I've defined NGC7000 The Wall as a custom object. I can then use the APT Point Craft feature to plate solve which works out where the scope is actually pointed, and then sync with CdC after which I just go to the object. After reaching the object, Point Craft plate solves again to check, then does another move and solve if needed. John

Not essential, and I managed for three years without it. But it is another useful tool in the astro-toolkit. I have to assemble and disassemble for each imaging session, so it makes it a little easier, rather than trying to find exactly where I want to image which may be different than the coordinates given for a specific object. Once I have decided the coordinates for the image, I can input them into APT as a custom object, so it makes imaging the same place on different nights much easier for me. I remember last year trying to find 'the wall' in NGC7000. I'd told the scope to go to this object which sent it somewhere in the centre of NGC7000, but I didn't have a clue from the first image which direction 'the wall' would be in. In the event, I went the wrong way looking for it and must have wasted about 40 minutes or more before I found it and was happy with the framing. Having said that, it was quite a learning curve getting all the software installed, then getting it working, but I found it quite satisfying when it finally did. 😀

Thanks, I didn't know about that, but will give it a try. John

The stars were better than mine as I didn't get rid of the magenta colour. I'm going to experiment with star removal on my next target. So, removing the stars from the narrowband data, then bring them back in as RGB, but trying to capture the RGB with shorter shutter speeds so the stars don't become too bloated. I'm also going to try using the Ha as a luminance layer to see if I can sharpen up the image. Olly discussed a technique for luminance in the post below which looks very interesting, so I will try that too. John

Fantastic image Bogdan and a wider field than mine with your scope. Nice star colours too. You must be well chuffed with that! John

I've just been through the special cable / plate solving learning curve myself after a few years of imaging with the ST4 cable connected from guide camera to mount. It's well worth doing it. No more searching for faint nebula that doesn't seem to show up where you expect it - just plate solve which tells software exactly where the mount is pointing, then tell it to go find the coordinates you want. John

I hadn't thought of that. Something to look into. John

Very true. In the past I've received a few comments that I've clipped the black level when I know I haven't and it looks fine on my own screen. Perhaps allowing a greater margin for this would work better for me, so it looks more pleasing on other screens. John

I was using 1s, but recently upped it to 3s. I'm still trying to decide whether it's better or not. Perhaps I need to do some experiments in the same conditions. John

Yes, for the moon and planets you need to be capturing video then stacking a percentage of the thousands of frames produced based on the quality of each frame. The stacking software will do this automatically.

I can't disagree with that. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Very nice!

I made my own Bahtinov mask which worked fine, but ended up buying one which was more robust than the balsa wood I had used. Good luck with the forecast. John

Thanks Olly. John

Have you got a Bahtinov mask? I use mine every time to check focus, even when my eyes tell me it's OK, it can be slightly out. Does your scope have a thumb screw to lock the focuser position? I check with the Bahtinov again after I've tightened this. John

Very nice image and I love the way it looks because you've held back on the processing. John

Olly, Are these techniques likely to be covered in the various tutorials on LRGB processing or is it something different? Thanks John

Exactly the route I've travelled. Jumping straight into mono astro camera with a filter wheel is possibly too much to take on. You will learn so much with just the DSLR. John

Thanks. I got some data last night so just having a play with it now. John

Lovely image! What kit are you using? This one is my next target, also in narrowband. I had a go last night, but the wind kicked up causing havoc with the autoguiding. Hope to try again tonight. John

Thanks Tony, I'll have a look at that. John

Thanks Piero. I'm using the ZWO 31mm filters. John

Thanks Bogdan, I'll look forward to seeing your image. Yes, the autoguiding I think I can improve by building a wind screen of some sort. I've noticed that even the slightest gust on my terrace causes the spikes on the graph to be bigger. Removal of the magenta haze is something I need to learn about. I use P.S., so need to know how to do it in that. Ideally, I want to take some RGB data for my next project so I can replace the narrowband stars with this. I use a Bahtinov mask for checking the focus, but otherwise there's nothing else added during imaging. At the mirror end of my SW200p, I have a black cloth cover (my wife made) to stop any unwanted light getting in at that end. Good luck with your image and hope the clouds clear soon for you. John