TiffsAndAstro

I have won 10 don't think I bothered deleting old version, but the constant reminder to upgrade on loading it stopped. If you just want to delete the old version, right click the shortcut and one of the tabs will say something like show target location. That should take you to the location on your drive of the exe file and stuff. Delete the folder that contains the exe and stuff.

ditto

i got the tec cooled version filter drawer and uv/ir cut filter for £514 including shipping and customs/taxes etc on my side. im not 100% convinced yet but 12 to 15 days time we'll see im sure its not as good as the more expensive brands - it doesn't have the 2 usb port hub built in - maybe it has that cooling fan vibration? but its a lot cheaper. its not annodised in a cool colour either

need to have a look into those. i (think i) understand using Ha +O3 the Ha goes into the red pixels and the O3 goes into green and blue pixels. But Hb is also red and not sure of the other popular (but weaker?) emissions. will go find some videos. its dawning on me i need to be a bit choosier on the videos i watch. i watched one earlier about gain and offsets and even i as an almost total noob noticed wrong info (which the comments pointed out that the youtuber had corrected in the video description) but who reads comments on youtube videos?

no mine will be the totally different svbony version and should have ar glass. there was a deal on to get a filter wheel and uv/ir cut filter. on a side note does anyuse use two different nb filters with an osc? or are the other possibly available emissions just to weak/difficult/something else for a noob and osc?

a surprising bortle6 but it seems higher from some of the gradients i get sometimes. but new camera, new start plus a basic lp filter from flo doesn't seem too expensive to not try out at some point. also a use optolong seems reasonable too maybe.

thanks so a light pollution filter is something i should consider using instead of a uv/ir cut filter for broadband imaging?

an rc is one of the scopes im possibly considering in the far future for galaxies and nebulas, so i'd be interested in seeing how you get on with it.

so i should have an uv/ir cut filter and filter drawer arriving with my 533 osc. let's not worry if its 1.25 or 2 inch in size yet. ill find out for sure in 12 to 15 days my future filter options are then a dual narrowband Ha +O3 . is this also what some people refer to as a "light pollution filter" or is that a another kind of filter? been watching some videos which confuse me.

not sure i can choose between them tbh they both look great in different ways.

Lol I'd need at least 2 or even 3 minutes of clear sky for that ;(

Don't remember how many subs but probably about 3 sec each via infra red remote. I remember clicking 300 times on some efforts. Pentax dslr and 50+ year old mint 50mm Pentax f1.7 probably wide open cos why not lol This one was after I got my mount and with canon 600d, probably my 40yo 135mm f2.8 and an intervalomter3 weeks later. I swore I couldn see a hint of horse head I've heard crack is nicer and cheaper ;( .

I'd love to image tho Ophiuchi but highest it gets is like 20 degrees for me so no chance. Tu for the link to data. Will have a good look and hopefully I will eventually be able to get my own data up to those sorts of quality.

Hadn't even considered edge of field issues of which I'm likely to have at least some. I'll definitely concentrate on non mosaics if my new camera turns up, but I'll try and take some test data to practice with whole I wait just 9 to 15 days M31 won't be high enough to image for me for at least a couple of months. I could always swap back to my dslr for m31 if needed, I hope.

Manually? In gimp maybe? I was thinking that but not sure (yet) how I'd deal with only showing one panels overlap, if that makes sense? I was thinking just aligning by eye in gimp, but I think of a lot of things that are trickier than I initially think my plan is to align then gradient removal or gradient remove from each panel then align. I Was also thinking of taking one sub of one panel, then one on next panel etc. sort of to even out gradients and possibly not dither?

Not even installed it yet but it's the only free option I've found so far I'll keeping looking around but I doubt there's a free tool that includes plate solving. appreciate the warning though. If I get half a clear sky I can try out and see with little time wasted with this weather.

Ty but I will need to learn 2 or 3 panel mosaics via free tools just for m31. An old unsupported panarama stitching tool from Microsoft called ice might do the trick, apparently it can stick linear data together. Gradients might be an issue then, but I can experiment with removing them first. If there is a gap in clouds tonight I might try a test and see. I say three so I can have one for center of m31 and then one either side, so no chance of a seam through the middle.

Will have a look ty

that would be nice. but, orthogonal to what? currently with my stuff screwed in finger tight my dslr is where it is, if that makes sense. i don't think i could make it orthogonal to anything. im hoping i won't need to do anything from this random link i found: http://www.company7.com/library/techin/orthogonality.html i haven't had to, so far.

yes manual. i did order one origionally from flo way back, but there seemed no way to actually attach it to my optical train. i'll ask them again once i get camera set up and working as i have a feeling ill need at least some other adapters/spacers. it was only about £20. sent it back with my first scope (the one with the welded on dew shield). i think i'd like a nicer rotator at least with markings on it for orientation. looks more pro too. i think i can use it and the filter drawer to contribute to back spacing without using it all up. but who knows, lol? for £16 i wanted this https://www.svbony.com/sv210-caa-camera-angle-adjuster-for-sv550-80f6/#W9162A but it seemed a struggle to work out how/if it would fit my gear. amd i assume M48 but all those Ms really confuse me as a beginner. don't even ask about the M4 screws i bought on ebay. god knows what they really are.

yup, got confirmation email. ill do an unboxing, first light and review video lol in 9 to 15 days including custom clearance....

well, its done. tec cooled imx533, plus filter drawer plus uv/ir cut filter delivered and customs/taxes all covered (i guess we'll see) for £514. which seems a good deal. they have another 'flash sale' on reduced the price by about another £60.

Great use of a caravan. Needing a forklift makes it a tad impractical for most people

I've never seen the milky way and that makes me sad but there's still stuff I can do, even in bortle6 which it seems is not that bad. huh max, min, mean are for ADU? i thought they were something else, but not sure what that something else was, lol. higher is better? at least i have a term i can google for now ty lol. Seems lower is better and it's relative for each set up but, I can keep an eye on it in future. Better than waiting for phd2's bonging of cloud audio. I did find a tool called Fits Liberator which looks handy. Gives adu for previous taken images.

Cheers it's obviously possible as people make great images on higher bottles than me, but maybe only via narrow band. Still seems to be impossible magic to me right now