TiffsAndAstro

My biggest* fault is doing further product research after buying said product. Reading an article on sharp cap analysis of sv605cc says it has a well depth of 73k not 50k and unity gain is 130 not 100. This is close to player ones specs for their version. Wonder if they use same circuit boards or something. If so I'm refering to mine as playertwo in the future * Not really my biggest fault

S50 has narrowband filters built in? It's a very tempting product considering it costs less than my camera alone. And who doesn't like a carbon fibre tripod?

Asiair is very very tempting, but zwo lockin on cameras is a bit ick. Also I've married Nina and she'd be upset with such a fast divorce Raspberry pi and astroberry also an option but I haven't used Linux in years. And still no Nina.

Me too

I've been comparing a lot of fovs. I just got a tracking number for DHL, so I'm sticking with a 533 for now lol Hopefully it will be suitable for a possible sct in the distant future too. Hopefully I get a decent tec cooled 533 with filter draw and UV/it cut filter for less than the cost of a uncooled 585 and zwo accessories....I'm far from certain what's even in the deal. Powersuplly? Probably not but I saw an unboxing video of someone who did. Might be special treatment for a yt er. Ty for your kind offer of astap help. I'll watch a lot of YouTube videos first though. 533 is square and reminds me too much of 1980s TV shows aspect ratio, but that's about my only concern. I already crop a fair bit and mosaics will solve that, though more complicated:( Also more forgiving of tilt/focus tube slop issues than 16:9 or even my current 3:2. I'll have to get a Ha + Oiii dual narrowband filter at some point. Maybe even an S + something second one. Not sure about that. I said elsewhere that I don't like Hubble palette. Turns out it's not that simple, of course. I've seen a couple images I think it works really nicely on, not sure yet if that's the palette itself or the way it was processed. I just need to get good data and I can worry about different ways of processing later. I can't be the only noob who thinks I can map the different emissions to colours different to Hubble palette and get a result I prefer

my plan is one day for a mele with the powered usb i already have plugged in. for now my expert wiring via the usb hub and then into my laptop is doing ok. chrome remote desktop seems ideal for this too. have it on my phone and my desktop to connect the my laptop.

if you have an old windows laptop, id suggest using that initially to test the water (as i currently do) and get an idea of how it all works together. after that you can look at attaching a mini pc to yourscope as youll have a better idea of what you need. i haven't seen any mini pcs with more than 3 usb ports though. usually 1x usb3 and 2xusb2 im very new to this hobby though so bare that in mind

Ty didn't realise astap was free let alone do mosaics. I've looked at mosaics in Ninas framing assistant and not sure how much overlap is needed. Will obviously have a test or two first. I think elp mentioned edge of frame defects being a problem in a thread, which I'd never even considered, so I will need to address any before attempting. I'll look up some astap tutorials and give it a go ty My camera still hasn't shipped, so I have a feeling I won't be getting it. I might have to change my choice and go back to an uncooled 585 based camera. *** seems i already downloaded astap's star databases, i guess for nina?

Definitely good advice to fix problem than deal with symptoms. I'm guessing I'll go PI at some point, I can fix eggy stars in siril to some extent, but they still can look bad in other ways. I'll post a tilt result of the 533 8-11 days

Read your posts on those threads and feel bad for you. Probably me too. Astrophotography is like a box of chocolates....

Yeah, I read those threads you kindly linked and they just scare me. This is my first scope and setup, hopefully completely by my eagerly awaited sv605cc. I'm not expecting perfection, just good enough to impress myself. I can already take passable images of f£&£ing galaxies from my suburban back yard for not that much Dosh. Galaxies! I guess I'll just have to see what happens if I get my new camera attached properly. A bit of tube sag/whatever hopefully won't be the end of the world. I do have an observatory/astro club 10 mins drive away, if I can ever get there, and they might be able to assist with focus tube stuff. They seem very friendly. I should add, I just want a nice pic of m31 and horsehead which with my gear will be far superior to what was possible back when I was at uni a hundred years ago. A few apods would be lovely, but I'm better at managing expectations than i was back then

Houston we have problem. Sorry couldn't resist. How far is it? Maybe Uber?

I think this is what I have, dslr sensor tilt. I'm pretty sure I had same thing previously using my rubbish* vintage lenses. I blamed the T2 cannon adapter and a Pentax to canon cheapo adapter at the time. * Rubbish for astro. For day time or moon stuff they are pretty decent for the cost.

I think I already watched it. Would be perfect except for my lack of jig or laser pen My main concern was slapping my new camera on it (if it ever arrives) and mistaking 533 sensor tilt for focus tube issues. I have experience with a total of one focuser, but it seems nice enough to me. I can get bahtinov analyser within a pixel on a 500px box easy enough. The lock screw annoyed me a bit as it throughs that off by 8px when I tighten it, but I've learned to take that into account. Ish. Also I barely tighten it recently. 533 and back focus adapters and focus drawer probably weigh more than my dslr so who knows? I'm sure it will be happiness and joy once I screw it all together. And clouds.

I'm going with as the issue is very similar at zero camera rotation and at near 180 degrees rotation, it's a problem with the sensor. I think the may be some focus tube slop or something, but not too much. Also I reasons for optimism. Mine is the later version of the scope, so it might have been addressed a bit and also a square sensor will be a bit less prone to showing it. Mine doesn't seem as extreme an issue as others seem....

Don't be so hasty, I'm usually incorrect

ty for this i'll have a good read. as the tilt seems to move with the camera orientation, im hoping you're wrong i have a 533 possibly on the way to me as i write this, so i guess that will help determine it once and for all. would hate to have to return the telescope as i like it.

The effect seems to be on the left hand side of the images before and after rotation which makes me think it's the dslr sensor is tilted. Hoping to be sure before I put a new camera on and decide to play with it's tilt adjustment screws unnecessarily.

This seems to be what I see in those images. Possibly with a slight reduction in the two images after rotation by 180 ish degrees

The second two images were taken after I rotated the camera by about 180 degrees from where the first two images were taken and the pattern seems roughly the same same.

so i noticed in all my dslr images i get roughly same pattern as the two images below. there is some variance and these are from stacked images. looking at a few random frames, stacking might exaggerate the effect a bit. after i rotated my camera approx 180 degrees (not specifically to test ths issue) i noticed the same effect. always top left is smallest then bottom right then top left then bottom right. the amounts vary a bit, as above. when i 'normalise' (think that's the right term) within one image them based on top right (smallest value) they are fairly consistent between each 4 images. i think this tells me my focus tube/optical train isn't the problem (ie dslr weight pulling tube to one side) but that the dslr sensor itself is tilted? which should disappear if i replace the dslr with my new camera? if the effect is still there with the new camera, it means the new sensor is tilted (which i can theoretically adjust via screws around the sensor) AND/OR the focus tube is still being pulled to that same side? this IS possible, as i rotated the camera and the ota in its rings. so im a bit confused....

Amazing. What looks like two separate dust clouds/blobs with their own wake/trail. Shockwaves.

ø2.1 x ø5.5 x 12mm center positive dc jack is what flo website says about my mount power supply cable. i have no idea if my camera, if it ever arrives includes a powersupply, but either way i'd like to use a splitter from it - one split going to the mount and the other via a detachable extension cable to my camera. can i just search on ebay for a cheapo version that matches the "ø2.1 x ø5.5 x 12mm center positive dc" ? i've seen a few already. also seems i can get a right angled adapter as i don't like using a straight one it seems to put unessecery stress on the power in socket even though i use some velco to take the weight off.

you seem to be doing very nicely just "still experimenting" ty for the description, i assume you're using pixinsight not siril before photoshop?

Don't want hijack thread anymore than I have but think I've seen a siril pixel math video for this using 60/40 balance. Ta again