Jiggy 67

For both the reasons above, I wouldn’t be confident with that cover, let alone how water proof it is. I use a Telegizmos 365 and I keep my mount out semi permanently . It has a silver inner lining for heat and is 100% waterproof. Expensive, yes but I wouldn’t skimp on this issue

There’s many a time I’ve read a report with a target that has peaked my interest, then gone straight to SkySafari and added it to a list

I highly recommend SkySafari. I have it on my laptop and phone so they can speak to each other. What you do on one will appear on the other. So I go on the computer during the day, refer to observing lists on the planetarium or just look at potential targets that night. Create a bespoke observer list for that night which then appears on my phone which can be highlighted in the planetarium on the phone. During the session I make notes in a handwritten log. The next day I transfer those notes onto SkySafari. I now have a database of hundreds of my observations on SkySafari. Ive tried other software in the past, nothing comes anywhere near SkySafari

….Also one of these makes life 100% easier, there’s actually one up for sale in the for sale section https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-right-angled-eyepiece-for-polar-scopes.html

That’s not my experience, I have as perfect pa (manually) as you can get by using this app. I would say that if you use the daytime routine you should use a piece of wood or something to take your phone away from mount as the metal of the mount will affect accuracy. I don’t bother doing that because I just want Polaris in the fov for tweaking later and final pa. I would say that just placing my phone in the mount saddle has got Polaris in the fov 95% of the time….good enough for me. The actual placement of Polaris on the app is 100% accurate as far as my experience has been

PA does appear confusing at first but it is actually very easy and after a couple of attempts you will be doing it in minutes. A couple of points: PA has nothing to do with the scope so don’t factor the scope into it PA is just the act of aligning the RA axis with the NCP so you can track an object with your slo mo controls Gain an accurate home position, mount pointing North and counterweight pointing to the ground Get Polaris in the fov of the polar scope. You can rotate the RA axis if you want to put 0 at the top but it isn’t necessary. Open an app like Polar Align Pro and match the placement of Polaris in the app with the view in the polar scope using the alt/az bolts only. If you have rotated in RA return to the home position. You are polar aligned, with practice, in under 5 minutes. Tip- Polar Align Pro has a daytime routine you can use in daylight to get Polaris in the fov of your polar scope

No way. An OIII will darken the image significantly. Add a UHC and it’s game over. You have to understand how they work. Filters filter out different wavelengths of light, allowing only certain wavelengths through, in the case of OIII, it allows oxygen through. So a nebula that emits light in the oxygen (because there is a lot of oxygen in the nebula) can be seen better….or at least differently. I don’t think stacking filters will work….others may disagree

I agree, I think I described cheaper filters as a false economy in a similar thread. Filters are something worth spending a bit of money on. You could get one for £10 but when you look through a more expensive one at a Star Party or similar, you’ll be getting your wallet out again, best to just bite the bullet first time. I do think UHC are better all rounders, and I use mine more that the OIII which is why I would buy that first

The short answer is yes. A UHC filter and an OIII filter are the minimum requirement in any serious observers kit. I would recommend Astronomik in both cases. UHC first followed by OIII as and when

Thanks @John you can see why it would be mistaken for two objects. I have had a go at this in the past but my notes show that I could only see it as a point of light “disc like” so no lobes…..it’s on the list to try again

Sorry Wikipedia answered the question……..NGC 2371-2 is a dual lobed planetary nebula located in the constellationGemini. Visually, it appears like it could be two separate objects; therefore, two entries were given to the planetary nebula by John Louis Emil Dreyer in the New General Catalogue, so it may be referred to as NGC 2371, NGC 2372, 👍

Is that one PN with two catalogue numbers or two PN’s close together? SkySafari doesn’t have an NGC2372 in its database which is a bit odd. It does describe NGC 2371 as a double lobed PN

I would suspect you are correct. It will only be a shaft as it serves no purpose other than to adjust the altitude of the mount with the alt screws. It doesn’t have any other mechanical purpose. It is the only means of connection between the two parts. I would go ahead and remove that cap

Global warming models all suggest that the UK will get wetter, supported by the increasing instances of flooding, which clearly implies more occasions of cloud. When combined with increasing light pollution (sadly there is a theme of pollution) it doesn’t bode well for astronomy in the UK. It’s a challenging hobby but amateur astronomers are a “cup half full “ group of people and will crack on regardless, the clear dry nights will just become all the more special.

I think I’m buying one about 6 months from now

Similar to the suggestion above, there is a little black plastic envelope in the weight shaft hole, can’t see it on the video, is it still there??

I have a 200PDS on an EQ R Pro. I set up in daylight, I wouldn’t even consider setting up in the dark. There’s a lot more to consider than just mounting it, balancing, cables, dew heaters etc, all easier in day light. As for dismounting, again, only in daylight the next morning (if I don’t decide to just leave it set up for multiple nights). Just put a cover over it and worry about it the next day. I also have a 100ED frac. I do disassemble this in the dark as it’s much smaller and lighter The mount is almost a permanent setup outside, just has a good cover over it

Wow, talk about a full night!!…excellent report

Nice report Dominic. I find doubles to be an absolute joy…..I’m probably a bit weird in that I look forward to moony nights so I can concentrate on doubles without feeling guilty that I may be missing out on DSO’s. I’ve had about 4 nights out with the 4 inch frac over the past week, we’ve been pretty fortunate with clear skies recently 🤞 Next time you’re in Orion look for Rho Orionis and Mintaka, both lovely binaries

It’s almost essential for viewing certain objects, nebulae for example. I would recommend one, but a good one, don’t bother with cheap £20 ones, it’s a false economy. I would also look at purchasing a UHC filter, also useful for certain nebulae

Hi all, My SW 100ED currently has the stock duel speed focuser fitted. I have also fitted the Baader click lock to the focuser tube which holds a Baader diagonal and a click lock 2”- 1.25” adapter. I have noticed on the last couple of evenings that the focuser doesn’t always manage to rack all the way in (towards the scope) using the focuser knobs, sometimes I have to push it the las cm or so, but sometimes it’s all ok. I was thinking it was a weight issue but whilst setting up today and without diagonal fitted it did the same. Gravity doesn’t cause it to rack out by itself, it stays in place. Has anyone experienced this and has a solution??….is there an adjustment screw I can adjust??

That’s really impressive, we’ll done love the way we can actually see some of the geography on the asteroid as it spins in the gif

Thanks John but……that chart changes my definition of “resolved” and could result in a lot of work for me to go back over all my written records!!!!! 🤣

An interesting one this, these are my obs recorded back in February 2021…. Double, possibly triple star. Quite a faint star with 8mm zoom (x112 mag) but can be seen as a very tight double. Vixen 4mm (x225 mag) shows it faint and blurry with an equally matched white companion very close and a possible 3rd star very faint and equally close forming a tight triangle….. I got it with a 4 inch frac so a bigger aperture should show it really well. SkySafari records many more components to the system

Never tried this one so thanks for the tip. I’m gonna give it a go this week, possibly tonight. Moonlit nights tend to mean I use the the 4 inch frac so I’m guessing 7 Tauri will be a challenge