Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

cgarry

Members
  • Posts

    2,342
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

450 Excellent

7 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cambridge, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have updated PIPP's website with some notes about running PIPP on Linux using Wine and thought that it is worth mentioning here. See https://sites.google.com/site/astropipp/downloads/installing-pipp-on-linux-with-wine for details. I am still planning to produce a native version of PIPP for Linux and OS X, but hopefully this will help somebody in the meantime. Cheers, Chris
  2. In that case I would recommend Ubuntu MATE 16.04, not the standard version of Ubuntu with the Unity desktop. I found the MATE desktop to be much more intuitive coming from a Windows background.
  3. Nearly forgot, this from @GreatAttractor is quite new but looking good so far: Stackistry (https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/269011-stackistry-a-lucky-imagingimage-stacking-tool/) Chris
  4. How about: oaCapture (http://www.openastroproject.org/oacapture/) SER Player (https://sites.google.com/site/astropipp/ser-player) Siril (https://free-astro.org/index.php/Siril) PIPP and AS!2 with Wine.
  5. CSM

    Hi Chris

    Tomorrow I should get a ZWO ADC and no doubt that will create clouds.  But have you any tips regarding the use of these?  Am hoping to do Jupiter, Mars and Saturn.  I've a Celestron 9.25 AVX and the ZWO ASIMC120-S which gives me quite good images but I think I can do better!

    Regards

    Colin

    1. cgarry

      cgarry

      Hi Colin,

      This page is a great reference for ADCs:

      http://skyinspector.co.uk/atm-dispersion-corrector--adc

      Once you have inserted the ADC into the image chain and the levers are together parallel to the ground, you need to open them up slowly until the red and the blue fringes on the planet vanish.  If you open them too far then the red and blue fringes will swap positions.  Note the planet will shift around on the sensor when you adjust the levers which can be a bit of a pain.

      Once you get the hang of it should really improve your images.  That is assuming the cloud ever clears...

      Regards,

      Chris

    2. CSM

      CSM

      Hi Chris,

      Yes - I had read through Martin's spiel and am still just a little confused, particularly about the bit getting the levers parallel to the ground no matter how many times I read through that. I usually image with the diagonal in place and the cardboard method seems a bit impractical, especially with a dew shield in place. So any suggestions for that.

      Also, it is only on the rare occasions that I have used a 3xBarlow - have the Meade Shorty - as conditions are seldom good enough.  But as the ADC is supposed to work best at f 30 - 40 would that Barlow be good enough?  Or maybe I should invest in another, better Barlow - a 3x TV Barlow (have 2xTVBarlow)?

      Do you do the prism adjustments on a nearby star rather than on the planet?  Regulus is near Jupiter so I was thinking maybe do it on that first?

      By the way, free airmail from China took from Friday to Monday!

      Regards

      Colin

  6. Hi cgarry,

    I came across this thread on PIPP and Magic Lantern raw files. Particulary the red cast issue:

     

    Have you had any progress on this issue. The histogram equalisation works, but results in the frames having different colours from each other, and when stacked and sharpened can cause some anomlies in the final image. The Raw capability of DSLRS with ML is really impressive, and it would be great if PIPP can handle it smoothly. Btw, the DNGs that are generated from the .raw files open up fine in Photoshop (no redish cast), so it must be the wawy PIPP (dccraw?) debayers them. Any help would be apperciated. Thanks!

  7. Nigel, If you are doing this for planetary imaging and there is significant empty space around the planet then it is worth getting PIPP to crop the frames around the planet while it is doing the MOV to AVI conversion (https://sites.google.com/site/astropipp/example-uasge/example1B). This will greatly reduce the memory and processor power that RegiStax will need. Another thing I would advise is to use AutoStakkert!2 (http://www.autostakkert.com/) for stacking instead of RegiStax. Cheers, Chris
  8. Your problem is almost certainly that Registax is only handling old format AVI files. PIPP will generate these (Output Options Tab->AVI File Options->Generate Old Format AVI FIle) but they are limited to a maximum size of 4GB. There are some ways to get around this in Registax, but I think using AS!2 for stacking and Registax for wavelets is the best solution. Cheers, Chris
  9. I have a 120MC and a 120MM and they are both fantastic cameras. Though you do have to work at it, great images don't just fall out of them! Here is one of Mars that I took with the 120MC: Note that there was a C14 telescope in front of the camera which does help an awful lot! Cheers, Chris
  10. The are various capture programs that capture raw data from fast frame rate cameras (often incorrectly referred to as web cams). Sharpcap, FIrecapture and oaCapture are these type of programs. Then there are various programs the appear to do a similar thing for DSLR cameras (such as 'EOS Camera Movie Record'), these are the programs I am referring to. In general it is simply not possible to get raw (or lossless compressed) video data from DSLR cameras. These programs give the impression that you are getting raw data, but all they do is convert the lossy compressed data into a raw AVI. Chris
  11. Although these programs generate lossless AVIs, they do by converting lossy video (or a series of JPEGs) into a lossless AVI. The damage has already been done to the data and I doubt there is any quality advantage to working this way.
  12. Ah yes, the size of the compressed data will depend on the subject in the video, That could explain the strange file sizes. From my reading on the internet, FINE is the setting you want.
  13. The file sizes you recorded make no sense to me, or at least they seem to be the wrong way round. Also 300MB for a 2 minute, 30 fps, 1920x1080 video is tiny! There is no way that is lossless! Cheers, Chris
  14. From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H.264/MPEG-4_AVC: Yes, H.264 can be lossless, but I have never come across this in the real world. You capture file is certainly not lossless, it is far too small for that to be the case. I would choose 'AVCHD FINE' as it will be better quality, though I am pretty sure it will still be lossy. Cheers, Chris
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.