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About 1CM69

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  1. Before I found Vital Parts here in the UK, I purchased caps from the US via Agena Astro: https://agenaastro.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=1.25” cap I’d try them if you’re in the US. I now see that FLO sell caps here in the UK so I’ll be buying from them in the future.
  2. This lens: http://s.aliexpress.com/J3IzQZZZ cheap but solidly built lump of metal, just got it to try some widefield with my 224MC.
  3. My memory is pretty bad these days & I cannot remember if I did get it all fitted. Move now got rid of the MoonLite & Celestron OAG and use SX OAG & SX Filter Wheel with a powered MicroFocuser. Sorry Ely I can’t help you out. Regards..,
  4. I pretty sure that CJD intends using his camera for DSO not as an ASC, as I have used my 224, so a Dark library & repeatable Darks is indeed necessary. Yes you are correct that the camera itself will give a temp readout but this is not controllable whereas using a temp probe give control. Although this temp probe is only giving the case temp & not sensor temp it bears a relationship and given using a selected exposure time is repeatable. This is how I use mine and it works. No doubt there are tweaks that can be made here and there, my current published design is a culmination of around 6 other iterations, taking the best from all of them to achieve a finished project that’ll produce results on par with the more expensive cooled versions of these or similar cameras at a vastly reduced cost. Cheers
  5. Mine gets below freezing too, everything depends on a temp drop from ambient. When used outside, as per normal use, the lower the starting temp the lower the final working temp. You would not get -15° if the ambient was 30° to start for instance. Not crowing either ?
  6. I guess you have already made sure if this but it is super important that the main mounting plate is completely insulated from coming in to contact with any of the other metal parts or the Peltier will be either trying to cool or heat this huge area.
  7. This is the TEC I use had no problems at all: HALJIA TEC1-12703 Heatsink Thermoelectric Cooler Cooling Peltier Plate Module 12V 27W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079DN16KH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.4MNBbWVZ7VKC Looking at the Farnell link, it doesn’t specify the manufacturer other than Multicomp is their own value brand & they source from anywhere. Peopke are knocking ‘Cheap’ Chinese but more than likely these days, it all comes from China. You can get a bargain by cutting out the middle man, IMO, just saying. Glad moving the box has helped ??
  8. Can’t vouch for the 30mm TEC, I specifically used a 40mm to match the alu block dimensions fully.
  9. You’ve mounted the small box on the fan side of the main mounting plate, it should be underneath as I have done. I know the sounds odd but it initially mounted it as you have only to find it restricted the drawing of cool air into the fan heatsink. Simple to test, you should notice an immediate benefit. Cheers
  10. 17.7% Waning Crescent Moon [2018.09.06] by 1CM69, on Flickr A 2 panel mosaic of the Waning Crescent Moon, each panel is a stack of 20 frames taken in BYEOS and then stitched in MS ICE. The stitched image was then tidied up and sharpened in PS. 17.6% Waning Crescent Moon [2018.09.06] with Earthshine by 1CM69, on Flickr A 3 panel mosaic of the Waning Crescent Moon, deliberately over-exposed to show Earthshine. Each panel is a stack of 20 frames taken in BYEOS and then stitched in MS ICE. The stitched image was then tidied up and sharpened in PS. Thanks for looking.
  11. Mars [2018.09.05] by 1CM69, on Flickr Mars was very low, around 12deg ALT so I am pleased to get this kind of detail. I captured 5xLRGBx60s sequences in SharpCap. Each one of the 20 .ser files was stacked in AS!3 & because of the low quality, turned out to only be 1% of usable frames. Then each resulting image was adjusted in RegiStax 6 using wavelets to bring out some more detail before being run through WinJupos for measurements, with each channel then derotated to produce a master channel image. I then made further slight tweaks to wavelets on these master images & then ran the 4 masters through WinJupos once again to produce master .ims files. These master .ims files were then used to derotate the RGB image. I initially added the L channel to the mix but found that it didn't really add to the result but in fact made things slightly worse, so I removed it. The image you see is purely RGB. With the final resulting image from WinJupos, I then made a few colour balance & sharpening tweaks in PS. Thanks for looking.
  12. I have now added this script to GitHub: https://github.com/1CM69/LRGB-Sequence-Capture Makes it far simpler if I make any changes or if anyone else wishes to. Regards.., Kirk
  13. Hi all, I’ve recently completed my first SharpCap script, you can find it here: https://forums.sharpcap.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1029&start=10 in plain text form, just needs to be opened in an editor and saved as a .py file (forum does not allow posting .py files) You can then add it as a startup script in SharpCap & it’ll add a custom button on the toolbar called LRGB Sequence Capture. The script purely automated the capturing of LRGB sequences, by time or frame limiting, so can be used for either Planetary or DSO. I have included a simple Help section but it is all fairly straight forward to use. Anyone is welcome to change/share the code but it would be nice if you shared any improvements. Regards.., Kirk
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