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Orion with C.9.25 and canon 1000D ?

resonator77

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resonator77

resonator77

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I am a total rookie in astrophotography to utilize DSLR in order to take DSO images.

Can anyone advice simple canon 1000D setting( ISO, Aperture ", F, custom settings) for the above set up to image Orion ?

I do have Celestron 6.3 reducer to make the scope faster.

Many thanks in advance.

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Merlin66

Merlin66

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I assume you have all the adaptors/ spacers to fit the camera to the scope. You don't use the camera lens when imaging through the scope.

You don't say which mounting you are using, but I assume its an equatorial mount.

I would suggest ISO 200, RAW and use a TC80 remote control ( or clone) to allow you to vary the exposures with minimum vibration.

Start with 30sec exposures and depending on the accuracy of your polar alignment and drive go up to 1 or 2 mins.

If you can get 10 or twenty images these can be stacked (DSS) to build up the image.

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resonator77

resonator77

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Thank you Merlin for your advice,

yes, it is CG-5GT and I have all adapters to use with the camera T ring and T Adapter. I am planning to use camera body attached to C.9.25 through reducer to make my focal faster.

I have rarely used my 1000D and completely unaware what the best settings for DSO.

If you could lay out aperture ", F settings, and custom setting for this particular set up which would enable me to take some images of Orion. Please bear in mind that I am complete novice when it comes to DSLR and DSO. Although I have been imaging Solar planets heavily last year with DBK21.

Many thanks.

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Merlin66

Merlin66

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When you use the canon at the prime focus ( or using the reducer) the telescope controls both the aperture and the f ratio.

Think of it as a 9.25" aperture f6.3 telelens.

That just leaves you to control the exposure time and the ISO setting.... see the previous message....

Ken

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Beyond_Vision

Beyond_Vision

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It's best to control the camera shutter with a cable release so you dont impart any vibration into the camera and scope. It is possible to use the 2s timer on the camera and then press the cameras own button if you dont have a cable release. It's worth investing in a timer remote such as this which you can then program the number of shots and length and gap in between shots.

Timer Remote Shutter For Canon G10 1000D 500D 450D 400D on eBay (end time 15-Feb-10 03:33:51 GMT)

I have not used this company but just linked to it as an example.

All you then need to do is set the ISO setting something between 200 to 800 depending on the target.

Regards

Kevin

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resonator77

resonator77

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Thanks Kevin,

I went for cheaper Timer remote for only £4.99 ;)

it is not an issue to tweak the settings while I am out imaging with scope and DSLR. I understand that shutter release might cause vibration, which is why I bought remote control other than that how to control exposure on 1000D. Still cant find how to set exposure ;)

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Beyond_Vision

Beyond_Vision

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Thanks Kevin,

I went for cheaper Timer remote for only £4.99 ;)

it is not an issue to tweak the settings while I am out imaging with scope and DSLR. I understand that shutter release might cause vibration, which is why I bought remote control other than that how to control exposure on 1000D. Still cant find how to set exposure ;)

Use the direction keys on the camera to highlight the ISO number on the menu then press select then cursor to ISO setting. . If you are using the cable release wind the wheel by the shutter button on the camera until the display says 'Bulb'

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BlueAstra

BlueAstra

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Have you considered using a laptop to control the camera? I connect my 1000D to a laptop with the supplied USB cable and a powered USB extension cable. I then use the supplied Canon control S/W to control the camera exposure, and programme 10 x 3m subs for instance. Each sub is downloaded to the laptop after being taken.

Here is a setup list:

Connect camera to scope.

Connect USB cables, camera-laptop.

Switch on camera, set to Manual (I also use ASA 400 or 800)

Focus camera

Run Canon control S/W

Set exposure to Bulb

Use button to take manual exposure, or setup timer for a sequence

I've also found that the camera battery can expire in 2-3 hours, especially in cold weather, so have a spare handy or get a mains battery adapter. With my C8 the Orion Nebula more or less fills the height of the frame. I can just about get it and the running man in the same frame, but it may be more difficult for you with a longer focal length (2350 v 2000).

To focus I use a bahtinov mask over the scope while pointing at a bright star near the target (eg Rigel). I do this using liveview at the camera to zoom in on the star.

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BlueAstra

BlueAstra

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OK, in that case I recommend the mask for focusing with liveview/zoom, plenty of spare batteries and SD cards, and one of the previously recommended remote control exposure dongles. I don't normally set the mirror lock on, never seen any image blur from the mirror flip at the start and end of the exposure. Normally use ASA800, occasionally 400. Turn off all noise reduction features on the camera (long exposure, high iso). Set it to take raw+jpeg.

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Space Bat

Space Bat

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Hi,

Yes you can mix ISO's but in general the stacking will de-select the lower ISO's in favour of the higher ones I have found, if there is less detail - play around with longer exposures at low ISO.

I tend to stick it around 800 - for M42 that is probably the max as I did try higher and that introduced more noise and gradients - so as others have mentioned elsewhere 800 is a good setting.

Also de-select the automatic noise reduction feature - as this hangs the camera for an age whilst it calculates the final image, I have to thank Cat for that tip -

As for focusing I pick the brightest star and focus on that and do a test image - I look for the focus of the stars around the bright one to see how they have been captured rather than the primary star used to focus in live view - if I am happy with that usually after a couple of go's, I will then goto the object I want to image...

This has helped me quite a bit - I am not an expert with DSLR and up until 3 months ago never owned one - so its a steep learning curve for myself - but people like Psychobilly and others have been a great help. I am almost competent :)

Chris

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