Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

Would this be good for powering my HEQ5?


Recommended Posts

9 minutes ago, SMF said:

Hi,

This was discussed a few weeks ago in another thread, after spending sometime debating what to use I went for this in the end:

 

https://www.fishingmad.co.uk/31508-bison-battery-box-carrier-with-usb-charger-led-meter-breaker-and-12v-socket-.html
and

https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/hankook-xv27-leisure-battery/
 

 

You don’t need to but I added two extra fused 12V ports, switches and a natty little USB 3A double with volt meter from Amazon.

Then I took the inverter from the truck and tacked it on the side.

90AH, 240V at 600W, three 12V sockets, one at 20A, two at 5A and three USB.

I recon that’s enough power for any night.

Since building this though the weather has been pants so not used yet for it’s intended but it’s come in handy for a few site jobs for work already. 
 

Steve

8671290B-7FFB-48CD-A5B2-F74416A3F3FC.jpeg

C4225A7B-3CF0-476B-83B7-17325472BCB0.jpeg

I still think this is great and determine to get one. What do you use to charge this ?

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m surprised the battery box is out of stock. A few weeks ago they had 154 in stock at fishingmad and plenty elsewhere on other sites as well. I just went with them as they were the most cost effective.

I'm really pleased with it. Unlikely, but if I ever need a new battery it’s a doddle to change.

And yes, it’ll power the house, as long as it’s led lighting 😉.

Heavy though, about 25kg. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, AlanP_ said:

Ok you're right. I rather buy quality stuff rather than buying something only for it to be useless in a few months or a years time. I am very new to all of this, so I wont be straying from my backyard for a long, long time if at all. The furthest I will be is probably 5-7M from my back door. So I would only need a mains plug for my mount and possibly laptop charger if needs be. Can you recommened a safe, outdoor mains extension cord? I will probably buy a protection box too to keep it from getting damp. 

Up to 10M something like This is good for outside.

Over 10M then this

Or a cheaper option would be something like This + This - I chose a 3 way because I do not think a 4 way would fit in that box (not sure) but a bit of searching you will find a bigger box.

Whatever option plug it into one of these RCD

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, AlanP_ said:

What are your thoughts on this extension lead? - https://www.screwfix.ie/p/masterplug-ldcs2510bq-4rcd-xd-10a-4-gang-25m-cable-reel-240v/55494

 

Its RCD and it says its for outdoor use.

How about this:

https://www.wilko.com/wilko-13amp-8m-4-socket-weatherproof-extension-lead/p/0479506?gclid=CjwKCAiArbv_BRA8EiwAYGs23D_1NIoOkSv8WxDG5xOHqiZ5vvzHJxb6CA4s6ROxyh2gnfqqn5h0uBoCJMwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

Just need a separate rcd.

Any transformers will then fit in the box with the 4 gang socket well away from moisture.

I use one of these for Christmas lights and it stays outside for about 4 weeks at a time in all weathers. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, AlanP_ said:

What are your thoughts on this extension lead? - https://www.screwfix.ie/p/masterplug-ldcs2510bq-4rcd-xd-10a-4-gang-25m-cable-reel-240v/55494

 

Its RCD and it says its for outdoor use.

It would be okay, just make sure you unwind the full 25M even is you only need 10M. You should not use extensions with some cable wound on the reel the cable can get really hot and melt the insulation.

It is probably a better idea to get a waterproof box as @SMF suggests above. That way the power supply for the mount, or whatever, can fit in there as well and be kept safe from moisture.

On one of the links I sent to the other threads I show the homemade box I made.

The boxes do not need to be absolutely water proof as we only need to keep from dew really as we will not be out if its raining for obvious reasons, although if you go to bed and leave it imaging as later you may do with some automated sequencing software on your laptop, then you never know but not a good idea if you think clouds may appear.
I tend to keep them off the ground a bit maybe on a chair or other box to stop them getting so cold so really have never had much dew condensate on it anyway.
BUT after a session it is always a good idea to switch everything off, then unplug extension from mains (with dry hands) then dismantle the box and power supplies.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Appreciate the suggestions all.

I've just found out I am a very indecisive person when I have been trying to decide what extension leads I should buy...

Would it be overkill for me to buy this along with the weatherproof box along with the RCD plug? I'd prefer to be on the safe side, but I'd rather not spend money needlessly too if it would be too much. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, AlanP_ said:

Appreciate the suggestions all.

I've just found out I am a very indecisive person when I have been trying to decide what extension leads I should buy...

Would it be overkill for me to buy this along with the weatherproof box along with the RCD plug? I'd prefer to be on the safe side, but I'd rather not spend money needlessly too if it would be too much. 

 

Up to you really. If using a RCD I don't think it is necessary. I would say the box is a good idea and as the 15M extension is not much more than one without the splashproof covers then go for it, the plugs should be kept dry for sure.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

THIS is the box I used. It is not designated as a dry box but really is more than good enough to keep dew off things for a night and together with the waterproof extension would be more than safe.

I just had to cut some of the lip of the box itself away (not the lid) to get the cables out and could send pictures of what I did.

They are super strong (supposed to take the weight of a car - but not tested that 🙂 ) and well big enough for a number of power supplies with plenty of space around them so they keep cool. Then at end of session just coil all the leads up and it acts as a storage box for the extension and just leave all the power supplies plugged in inside the box.

Just a thought.

Steve

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant! Thanks a million for that. I think I will try and do something similar.

Really appreciate your help with this honestly, you've been brilliant :)

Last question, I promise!! 

Is this for connecting the mount to the laptop for controling it? -nhttps://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynxastro_eqdir_sw_rj45_2m.html

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try and power as much of your equipment as independently as possible, IE seperate batteries for mount, scope, camera's, laptop and Dew control. As most of the kit is linked together by USB serial ethernet etc.  One failure has the potential to take out everything when they are sharing the same power source.

Any inverters should be pure sine wave and from a reputable company. Victron or Sterling being among the best.

I have a couple of 7Ah power tanks, A tracer lithium battery pack & The Evo mount has its own internal battery. Charging everything can be a bit of chew, Just have the "Wall Worts" ready when your ready to call it a night, bring the batts in first to warm up a little while you dismantle the rest of the kit.

All the best

Steve

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, AlanP_ said:

I couldn't find a Skywatcher 7AMP Power tank in stock anywhere which was recommended to me to power my HEQ5 mount, so I had to find a different one.

Would this one be ok? - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Outdoor-Extension-Weatherproof-Splashproof-Protection/dp/B07VXVHZNY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1CO0IT5QPCV08&dchild=1&keywords=outdoor+extension+lead+waterproof&qid=1609509567&sprefix=outdoor+%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2KLPKHO4ZIP5X&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3M01YVDM1ODdFUFAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4NzY0MDExRFFYTjNEQlpPMjFEJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1ODUyNTFSUlRUQlpSODBDTjkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Ideally im looking for one that will be useful outdoors and be safe from any dew, but i'll probably place it in a plastic container regardless. Are there any better alternatives?

Once I've finished building my imaging rig I'll be using this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/celestron-lithium-lifepo4-powertank-pro.html  Its expensive (Its worth it for the quality/ reliability) although I was lucky to grab it just before it shot up in price everywhere by around £35. But its very lightweight @ 2kg & comes with velcro straps to attach to your tripod & keep out of your way, very reliable & unlike lead batteries it doesn't need to be constantly re charged every couple of months if its in storage (if you let a lead battery run down its an right pain ITA to get it recharged) it can also be run all the way down during a session where as a lead one can only be run down to (I think) around 30% remaining before you have to turn it off for re charge.

The Celestron will easily power my mount, ASIair Control Box, Imaging camera, dew heater straps etc for a full nights imaging. It also has a very useful big red light (or white if you wish) which is perfect for keeping your eyes dark adapted.

Steve

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, AlanP_ said:

Thanks @Cornelius Varley and @teoria_del_big_bang

I dont mind charging the battery after each use if needs be. I'd probably be imaging a max of 3 hours a night anyways and it wont be every night due to clouds, unfortunately.

If I chose that battery you recommended, how would I get power from it to connect it to say my laptop, heq5 and anything else? I don't have a cooled camera, just a DSLR. Speaking of which, is there a way I can get constant power to my Canon without replacing batteries? 

If your wanting a good power solution for dew straps, DSLR & mount, you wont go far wrong with this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dew-prevention/lynx-astro-4-port-dew-controller-with-dslr-power-supply.html you would need a power tank iwith a car cigarette style output. The Celestron power tank I linked has one as do many other power tanks.
You plug the Lynx Astro into the power tank, the mount can also be plugged into the power tank (or into the 12v output on the Lynx. For the DSLR you would also need to buy a dummy battery which is then plugged into the other 12v output on the Lynx, this then powers your DSLR.
This is the dummy battery, you'll have to check the whole web page for the one that matches your DSLR https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/lanparte-lp-e17-dummy-battery-pack.html .

If further down the road you decide to buy a dedicated cooled camera you'll also need a separate 12v supply to power the cooler, the Lynx will also power this.

I think I've provided all the correct details here but I'm sure if I've missed something out someone will point it out. The info I got was from FLO when I was looking for the same solution, I've now decided that I'm getting a dedicated camera which now makes my purchase unnecessary 🙄. This isn't a shameless advertising plug to benefit me but I will be selling my Lynx soon as I now have no use for it although I'm not 100% sure when that will be.

Steve

Edited by nephilim
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all, appreciate all of your advice! Seriously, this is the best forum i've come across!

I actually just stumbled upon this which I thought was a great deal as its double the price in most other places: https://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/products/Trailing+Sockets+%26+Leads/Masterplug+Pro+XT+Reels/Pro+XT+4+Gang+Case+Cable+Reel+with+Switch+and+LED+15m/491174262

I also purchased an RCD adapter to plug it into. I just need to find a weatherproof box big enough to fit it now... 

I actually have a microwavable pouch at home that sucks up any moisture in the air, I use it for my car to stop condensation on the windows. I think I will throw that in there when I'm imaging on a cool night. It will at least help a small bit if anything. 

Thanks again for all your guys help! I'm sure i'll be back tomorrow with more questions 😂

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, AlanP_ said:

Hi all, appreciate all of your advice! Seriously, this is the best forum i've come across!

I actually just stumbled upon this which I thought was a great deal as its double the price in most other places: https://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/products/Trailing+Sockets+%26+Leads/Masterplug+Pro+XT+Reels/Pro+XT+4+Gang+Case+Cable+Reel+with+Switch+and+LED+15m/491174262

I also purchased an RCD adapter to plug it into. I just need to find a weatherproof box big enough to fit it now... 

I actually have a microwavable pouch at home that sucks up any moisture in the air, I use it for my car to stop condensation on the windows. I think I will throw that in there when I'm imaging on a cool night. It will at least help a small bit if anything. 

Thanks again for all your guys help! I'm sure i'll be back tomorrow with more questions 😂

No problem and it is certainly the best and friendliest forum I have ever been on, maybe the natural nature of astronomers, some of the carp fishing ones I have been on the language and attitudes can get quite naughty, even the model railway ones I have been on I have seen some very heated arguments (would you believe it ?).

The link I gave you to the box I used had various sizes available, I think mine is the smallest available the others range from bog to huge, they are super strong and also will act as a storage box to keep everything in.  

Personally I would not throw the silica pouch in.
I am sure with the lid on no moisture will ingress especially if the power supply for the mount is in there (and maybe others later on) as these will keep it a little warmer inside the box than outside and so any condensation will be on outside of box not the inside.
I am not certain, but, if there is a lot of moisture in the air the silica gel pack could draw moisture in from the outside and if it gets saturated may start to drip water on stuff. Maybe not on a 3 hour session but I am sure you may have longer sessions later.
If you do I would put it in the bottom of box and make sure the electrical stuff sits above it somehow. I would just leave it out so far not heard of anyone using these like that (could be wrong thought). They use them for storing scopes and eyepieces etc but not during the night (I think anyway).

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

No problem and it is certainly the best and friendliest forum I have ever been on, maybe the natural nature of astronomers, some of the carp fishing ones I have been on the language and attitudes can get quite naughty, even the model railway ones I have been on I have seen some very heated arguments (would you believe it ?).

The link I gave you to the box I used had various sizes available, I think mine is the smallest available the others range from bog to huge, they are super strong and also will act as a storage box to keep everything in.  

Personally I would not throw the silica pouch in.
I am sure with the lid on no moisture will ingress especially if the power supply for the mount is in there (and maybe others later on) as these will keep it a little warmer inside the box than outside and so any condensation will be on outside of box not the inside.
I am not certain, but, if there is a lot of moisture in the air the silica gel pack could draw moisture in from the outside and if it gets saturated may start to drip water on stuff. Maybe not on a 3 hour session but I am sure you may have longer sessions later.
If you do I would put it in the bottom of box and make sure the electrical stuff sits above it somehow. I would just leave it out so far not heard of anyone using these like that (could be wrong thought). They use them for storing scopes and eyepieces etc but not during the night (I think anyway).

Steve

Definitely! Some forums i've been on before are extremely obnoxious for noobies like myself. They expect you to know everything and any questions are ridiculous! I feel very welcomed here, however :) 

Oh great point. I think i'll leave out that satchet so, i'm sure the box will be fine. I'm trying to avoid Amazon at the minute because its taking over two weeks for stuff to be delivered to Ireland from there. I should be able to pick up something similar in a local hardware shop.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im just reading through the tutorial here to get a grasp of what it will be like when I do it. This bit has me a bit confused though. What is the difference between a IR cut only and a full spectrum mod? Which one should I do?

ir filter.PNG

Edit: This was meant for another thread, oops!

Edited by AlanP_
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, AlanP_ said:

Im just reading through the tutorial here to get a grasp of what it will be like when I do it. This bit has me a bit confused though. What is the difference between a IR cut only and a full spectrum mod? Which one should I do?

ir filter.PNG

Edit: This was meant for another thread, oops!

No worries, there is a good explanation on the following website, this is where I had mine modified, good service I think I had it back within the week.

Cheap AstroPhotography

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

No worries, there is a good explanation on the following website, this is where I had mine modified, good service I think I had it back within the week.

Cheap AstroPhotography

Steve

Cheers for that Steve.

So I should just remove the IR filter then in my case? I also want to purchase a light pollution filter of some sorts. Not sure if that affects anything to do with this. I was thinking of either getting a Astronomik CLS CCD, or an IDAS D2 Light Pollution suppression filter. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, AlanP_ said:

Cheers for that Steve.

So I should just remove the IR filter then in my case? I also want to purchase a light pollution filter of some sorts. Not sure if that affects anything to do with this. I was thinking of either getting a Astronomik CLS CCD, or an IDAS D2 Light Pollution suppression filter. 

No expert but I think yes it is just the IR filter.

I used a LPS-D1-EOS1 this with my DSLR, But which one, if any, you need really depends on the amount of light pollution you have, If streetlams then most mow are LED which means a lot of the older LP filters do not work. I would talk to FLO and explain your light polution situation and they will point you in the right direction (they will not just sell you the dearest filter honestlyt).
LPS-D1-EOS - Is in our opinion the BEST Light Pollution Suppression filter for astro photography with DSLR, colour and mono CCD cameras

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

No expert but I think yes it is just the IR filter.

I used a LPS-D1-EOS1 this with my DSLR, But which one, if any, you need really depends on the amount of light pollution you have, If streetlams then most mow are LED which means a lot of the older LP filters do not work. I would talk to FLO and explain your light polution situation and they will point you in the right direction (they will not just sell you the dearest filter honestlyt).
LPS-D1-EOS - Is in our opinion the BEST Light Pollution Suppression filter for astro photography with DSLR, colour and mono CCD cameras

Steve

In the video of him doing the astromod, he installed an Astronomic clear glass after he removed the IR filter. I wasn't aware I needed to buy that clear glass filter. I wonder is it needed or was that for something else. I may add that to the other thread where I was talking about this. 

Yeah, maybe i'll send them an email. FLO have been very helpful with giving me advice in the past when enquiring :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure, if you want to retain the autofocus then you have to put some shim back in that is same thickness as the removed filter. But I found it best to send it off to the link I sent you above. It was not expensive and he has done this many times before so no chance of ending up with a useless camera.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.