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3D printing first try: tube rings


AlentejoSkies

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So, I spent my weekend with a Prusa i3 mk3, Onshape and Fusion 360. First time I've tried this, and I'm just amazed! Many thanks to @John78 for sharing his parametric model from a couple of years ago. I am so impressed by the result that I just have to show it here (my family and friends only somewhat share my enthusiasm).

Next stop has to be a focuser. @Chriske, you've got a PM incoming.

And then, well I've got so many ideas now!

3D printed tube rings.jpg

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12 minutes ago, AlentejoSkies said:

.ipt files will be very okay. Thank you!

Beside the printed parts you need a aluminium barrel. It has no plane, there's no need to. The diameter of the barrel needs to be precise.
Also a few 6x10x2.5mm ball bearings, and an axis that fits inside the bell bearings.
If you do not use the dual speed device, you need to redraw just a little bit. The big hole on the right side must be made smaller to allow a ball bearing That big hole on the right side is in fact to make room for that dual speed device. Pressure on the alu barrel is done with a very small bolt at the left(front)

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Thanks Chriske. Looking forward to seeing the files.

The aluminium barrel should be no problem. Even a good reason to use the workshop lathe. Dual speed knob will have to wait though until the next time a friend is going to the States. That BD601 planetary reduction drive with a unit price 12 dollars for five or more is fine, but the postage to Europe is prohibitive. I'll buy a few though when I do get a chance, so if anyone wants one posted within Europe and is willing to wait with me an indeterminate time, let me know!

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My PETG prints have been alright although it doesn't get much colder than 0C here. I still wouldn't use them for anything that requires heavy duty structural strength. Print orientation matters as layer separation can be a problem even if it doesn't get cold.

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If you are getting layer cohesion issues, I'd suggest you'd check the settings in your slicer to ensure that  your vertical shell perimeters and infill\perimeter overlap is adequate....

What I find, is that, over time, and with overnight cooling & daytime heating, I'll get a 'sag' in longer parts, but other than that, no issues.

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23 hours ago, kbrown said:

Why did I read this as "Your wife will never be the same again..." :D

Well, now that you make a joke out of it, the thing is...

When we first started building printers and our very first part was 'born'. My wife looked at it, lifted her eyebrow(maybe two, don't remember) and said : 'Yeah.... toys for boys'
Seven years later, I lost count how many, small tools and replacements have been made by me for my dear wife, printed with that 'Toy for boys' machine. And what's more I don't even ask to make all these things. When she needs something for here hobby, or something small is broke, she comes to me and  asks if I could make/repair something for here.
😁

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8 hours ago, Chriske said:

... and our very first part was 'born'....

That catches the feeling of excitement and amazement of my first part pretty well too!

So, just to be sure on the question of cold, I put a discarded print piece (the same PET-G) in the icebox for a few hours and took a hammer to it this evening. I had to give it quite some blows to chip a first piece off and I didn't get its structure to break before I felt I had to stop to not disturb my neighbours.

Was hoping to test tonight whether the new rings would shed light on whether the old rings (hose clamps) had been causing my collimation issue on the lovely little ETX-105, but looks like the cloud is here to stay. And that's a good thing down here in southern Portugal.

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15 hours ago, AlentejoSkies said:

I put a discarded print piece (the same PET-G) in the icebox for a few hours and took a hammer to it this evening. I had to give it quite some blows to chip a first piece off and I didn't get its structure to break before I felt I had to stop to not disturb my neighbours.

Very professional and scientific approach indeed...🤣🤣🤣🤣

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