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Everything posted by kbrown

  1. I've heard a few people recommend this but at over £20 for a small can it seems a bit steep. Not that it would break my bank but just wondering if it's really THAT good?
  2. Hi, So as I've had some communication issues on my last couple of imaging sessions I thought it would be time to go over all the usb connectors on the cables and ports in the devices to clean them. So far I've just used 99.9% IPA and a cloth wrapped around a suitable plastic stick to clean them. But I don't think that will do much to any oxidation. Wouldn't want to use anything too abrasive as that would most likely wipe out any platings on the connectors. I've read about salt and vinegar baths followed by sodium bicarbonate bath to neutralize the acidity but haven't had the courage
  3. Old topic I know but I only just managed to wire this into usable state. On, under and around the tray there are: Battery that provides 12V and 5V. Switch and connectors for dew heaters and other 12V devices. LTC1871 based DC-DC converter for keeping the supply voltage for the CCD at steady 12.7V even when the battery voltage goes down. Raspberry Pi USB 3.0 Hub WiFi dongle GPS module The battery life isn't great but it's useable. I tested it last night with the CCD cooled down 15 deg C below ambient and one dew heater constantly on. I managed
  4. Another hacky way to get around the potential config clash problem might be to run the other Kstars session under a different user. That way they would have completely separate configs...
  5. Oh yes. Didn't think of that. Maybe I can run them in a container or something... I did this in the beginning and didn't like it. Just painfully slow and unreliable to use.
  6. Thanks James. Certainly some food for thought. Think I'll try the two interfaces connected to each RPi first as that's the least amount of faffing about. I did manage to run two Kstars at the same time. Might try doing it for real soon. K
  7. I'm on Linux. My laptop has a built in wifi adapter and i have a wifi dongle too so I guess the easiest would be to have one of them connected to Kit A and the other one to Kit B. Or maybe Kit B could be connected to Kit A which I connect to from my laptop... Hmm... EDIT: Btw, I just tried I can run multiple sessions of Kstars so I guess there's no problems there...
  8. Hi, So far I've only dealt with one remote kit with Kstars/Ekos. It's Raspberry Pi 3 based configured as an WiFi AP running an INDI server + drivers. It has worked fine. But now I've slowly been building another similar setup. This then prompted the question, what if I want to use both of them at the same time? Obviously I can't be connected to two APs at the same time. Not sure if I can even run two sessions of Kstars either? Any ideas? Cheers, Kari
  9. Hi, This is probably not feasible at all but I thought I'd ask anyway. Has anyone seen anyone attempting to add GoTo feature of any sort to the SkyWatcher StarAdventurer? I know as a project it would be very ambitious and the result probably wouldn't be awesome but still it's intriguing me. The SA only has RA tracking (quite poor PE btw) and a very slow "slew" backward and forward buttons. With the DEC axis you'd have to get more creative. I have the optional L-Bracket DEC thingy that potentially could be motorised albeit it has rather large backlash on the gearing. Maybe that could be ta
  10. Slightly off topic but I figured since quite a lot of you tinker with electronics as well, I'd share these 3D printable interlocking SMD component storage boxes I designed. Inspired by a model I saw online but instead of being restricted by a set amount of boxes per print these can be printed as required and added to the gang as needed. You do need to sort of decide how many rows or columns you need and assemble them in rows or columns first before attaching them together. Nonetheless these are proving to be quite useful for me at least. STLs attached... I printed mine with 0% infill but
  11. I'll be using a stepper motor controlled by an Arduino and a TMC2209 based stepper driver. I'm not really trying to copy the steeldrive. It'll be a custom thing based on my current DIY focuser. At the moment I'm just stuck waiting for the focuser to arrive.
  12. I will be doing one as soon as I get my focuser from FLO (been on order for several months now :z). Although my priority is the opposite; I prioritise remote PC (INDI) control and don't really need the hand controller. I built a hand controller for my current DIY focuser but after initial fiddling about I realised I didn't really need it as everything else is remotely controlled as well. So to keep the size and weight down I will probably forget about the hand controller.
  13. Yes. There is no need for homing. You can just put the wheel in an it'll just work...
  14. No. I only needed to do it once after I had my modifications ready and assembled. From there on it just re-uses the offsets from the Arduino EEPROM memory. You shouldn't have to touch them even if you open the housing to take out the wheel in order to change filters.
  15. The calibration in my case is just a manual/visual process to see where the filter slot stops and whether it needs adjustment. Then yes these adjustments are stored on board 'permanently'. Until you change them again that is. I haven't had to change mine I can't remember whether uploading a new version of the Arduino code retains the values. Probably not...
  16. 3D printing threads isn't a problem. I've done it many times. However I would not 3D print the filter wheel housing as it needs to be quite sturdy due to the weight of the camera and other accessories hanging off of it. Yes the sensors can detect the magnet before it's centred under the sensor. But this is a constant offset as long as the sensors are fixed in place so I take care of this in software. I turn the wheel until I detect the first magnet. Then I turn a little bit more to see if there's any other magnets coming "into view". From here I apply a user defined offset (backwards or f
  17. Like I mentioned before the fourth isn't used at all. I just put it in just in case as I wasn't sure how the magnets and sensors would play together so close to each other. Another idea I had in my mind was to 3D print a 9 x 1.25" filter carousel that would fit in the same housing. That would require four sensors. I haven't done this yet though. Don't even know if it would be physically possible
  18. Yes the sensors are aligned so that the magnets on the wheel travel right underneath them. One sensor detects one magnet at a time so basically I encode the slots with the presence or absence of the magnets as seen here: Notice the variation of the magnet placements on each slot. This is what I tried to explain in my first reply with the truth table. Hope this helps?
  19. This photo shows the sensors soldered on the PCB (Click on the arrow icon on the top right to get to the right post). They're the four transistor like devices in the middle with bent legs to get them close to the surface of the wheel housing. This photo shows the additional bracket I made to hold the screws on top of the sensors.
  20. Your wheel looks exactly the same I have as far as I can see. No there's four sensors (U2, U3, U4 and U5 in the schematic. Have another look in my old thread you linked in the first post. There's tons of photos showing how I put everything together. Do you have a CNC mill/router? Not sure if I would have attempted this without mine...
  21. The magnets you found look correct but do you really want 200 of them? Cheap though so why not... Hope you noticed the edits I made to my previous reply?
  22. As for the Allegro A3144 hall effect sensors you could get them from flea bay (eg item no. 274508408913). The magnets I used were 3mm diameter 4mm thick neodymium magnets. I think I got those from flea bay too. I used two component epoxy glue to mount them on the wheel. Just need to glue them one at a time per filter slot. Otherwise the magnets may dislodge from their intended position while the glue is still curing...
  23. Ran into some trouble resurrecting my old project files. I run the development branch of KiCad these days (kicad-nightly) and it doesn't seem to like my 3+ year old project files. I managed to get the schematic displaying correctly but getting the PCB working would require a bit more work. I've attached a pdf copy of the schematic so at least you can see which components I used. I've also attached an .svg file of the PCB which I used to etch the PCB with. If you want to make your own version you can skip R1 and R2 if you like. This was an attempt to implement a software based low voltage
  24. Trial and error in my case. Although in my case the first sensors and magnets I bought worked eventually after I found the configuration described above. I'll do some digging tonight to see if I can find my project files and more details for you...
  25. I'll see if I can find my old KiCad files for the electronics. Have to do some digging around...
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