Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
150mm F/5 Newt, as received new, view down eyecap collimator (no adjustments attempted by me):
I've read a couple of intro guides, so I'm led to believe that the off centre image of the secondary in the primary is normal for a fast reflector.
The whole image of the primary in the secondary seems to be reasonably central too.
My concern is obviously that the black dot from the collimation cap is not within the "doughnut" centre marking from the primary.
I've tried here to superimpose a circle with centre lines, but I'm not sure if I've got the circle itself correctly positioned (I'm not sure what I should be lining it up against):
Now, the interesting thing is that it's one of those jobbies with a sealed, non-collimatable primary. But I believe the secondary has all the usual degrees of movement.
Does it look likely to be far out?
I can try a star test tonight (first time for that too).
So, I have been testing three different kind of lasers, each one is supposed to be the "best" in each category or what you want to call it, the hotech and HG is almost the same, but whit the difference in how you lock it down.
The Catseye is very different in how it works.
I made a Youtube video of my thoughts
What do you think? which one do you use?
Hi, I am trying to collimate my astrpgraph, a TS N-AG10 with a Hotech 2" self centering laser and I am having some questions of the clamping procedure.
Each time i am trying to tighten the collar so that the laser would tighten up in the focuser, the laser dot is quite far off the earlier spot the laser hit.
I have sience bought a Howie Glatter 2" laser, when i adjust the secondary so that the laser dot hit exactly in the center of the primary dot and change laser to the hotech, the laser dot is about 4-5mm off, if I release the Hotech laser and re-tighten it, the dot will hit somewhere else.
I can not just trust the hotech laser - has anyone else experienced the same thing?
*Both of the lasers is collimated itself at 5 meters distance with the dots not moving at all.
I'll begin this post by saying, I've searched every forum. I've tried every tip. And I'm hoping you beautiful people can provide some suggestions based on my specific issue. Because, as my title states, I'm just about ready to give up. Here's a bit of background before I list the many ways I've tried to resolve the issue.
I own a Celestron NextStar 8SE and a Canon Rebel T6. After many nights of trying, I cannot get a clear image of planets, or even the moon. I've given it plenty of time to reach thermal equilibrium each night (1-2 hours). When viewing through the eyepiece, the image is an absolute blur. When viewing from the camera, I get no image at all.
Here are the things I've tried on the telescope itself:
Focusing the telescope via the "Focus Knob" Collimating the mirror via the 3 screws Using a Duncan Mask to make collimation easier. Focusing the telescope on an object much closer, getting a clear, sharp image through the eyepiece and the DSLR, then attempting to view a star. Waiting for, and viewing during, a near-perfect clear night with very little atmospheric turbulence. I live on the westcoast of the US. So, the only objects I'm able to see clearly (with the naked eye) are the moon and Venus. I cannot describe the level of disappointment and frustration I feel when I can't clearly view them from the scope. Venus is as bright as ever, and I'm getting a blur. I tried using the DSLR and the planet doesn't show up at all. Just black skies. My DSLR settings are as follows:
Manual Focus Shutter Speed: Bulb ISO: 1600 What am I missing? I feel like I've tried everything and I just want to throw up my hands in defeat.
Hi, Just wondering whether collimation is necessary on a smaller Telescope like mine (https://www.astroshop.eu/telescopes/skywatcher-telescope-n-76-700-astrolux-az-1/p,5010#tab_bar_1_select)? If so, how often do you need to do it, and how do you know when it needs doing? Any other tips on how to do it are welcome.