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IC-1396 using starless method


Rodd

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12 minutes ago, Barry-Wilson said:

Well done Rodd - excellent image.  I really find this technique helps bring greater depth to the image.  Experiment with retaining some green too to help the tones.

I find that TGVDenoise using Chrominance only in CieLab mode, ensuring Local Support is ticked does a really good job of clearing up any remnant artefacts in the combined HaSHO at say 300 or 350 iterations, eg the faint tiny rogue coloured pixels or pixel clusters.  MMT in chrominance mode helps after applying the TGVDenoise as well.

Thanks Barry.  regarding the green....it funny you should say that as I do have a aversion to green.  I know it can help bring some depth to the red (for yellows) and blue (for teils) but as soon as I pick up a green cast I feel I must eliminate it.  I have to reassess this I suppose.

I agree about TGV denoise in general--but I am still getting comfortable with the levels.  Too much NC is undesirable.  I usually use very small amounts--keeping the 2 top sliders the same (usually between 1.05 and 1.65 or so with the top slider set at 0 and the middle one set at -3)  I have been using 100 iterations be default.  I don't know if any of this makes sense, but it has prevented me from overdoing the NC--I will keep doing and undoing while reducing the amounts until I feel its not overdone.  Sometimes I will extract the various colored channels--denoise them then reinsert them.  Maybe that's a big no-no but sometimes it produces nice results (sometimes the effects can't be seen)I know what you mean about the rogue pixels--they are persistent.  I will try you approach and see if I can make it work.  I have  feeling that it is an interplay between the right mask, the right TGV denoise settings and the right image display (inverted or regular--I have been inverting images at times and using star masks to get rid of halos and to sharpen and do noise control)

I really appreciate your tips....Thanks you

Rodd

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Lovely image Rodd with exceptional sharpness and detail! I have hard to imagine it could be done any better (even in PS ?). Unfortunately my PI skills are still very limited so most of the tips and tricks discussed in this thread are mumbo-jumbo to me.

A minor detail: it looks like you have a dark band along the lower edge.

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5 minutes ago, gorann said:

A minor detail: it looks like you have a dark band along the lower edge.

Finally, someone notices!  Yes--a cropping error.  I will crop that out.  Not sure why its there--I used the same stacks as before--which were DBEd and cropped.  But I do notice that this image is a tiny bit bigger than the last, so maybe I cropped it out last time.  Anyway--thanks for looking and seeing.

Rodd

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1 minute ago, Rodd said:

Finally, someone notices!  Yes--a cropping error.  I will crop that out.  Not sure why its there--I used the same stacks as before--which were DBEd and cropped.  But I do notice that this image is a tiny bit bigger than the last, so maybe I cropped it out last time.  Anyway--thanks for looking and seeing.

Rodd

It is just such a great image so I had to find something wrong with it?

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14 minutes ago, gorann said:

It is just such a great image so I had to find something wrong with it?

There's plenty more.  Sometimes I wish I could process next to a PI programmer so I can say  "How do I target THAT area while keeping this one freeze" (when masks and the existing scripts fail, of course).  He would probably say, "learn to use it, man, it can already do that." Probably true

Rodd

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5 hours ago, gorann said:

Lovely image Rodd with exceptional sharpness and detail! I have hard to imagine it could be done any better (even in PS ?). Unfortunately my PI skills are still very limited so most of the tips and tricks discussed in this thread are mumbo-jumbo to me.

A minor detail: it looks like you have a dark band along the lower edge.

 

5 hours ago, Rodd said:

Finally, someone notices!  Yes--a cropping error.  I will crop that out.  Not sure why its there--I used the same stacks as before--which were DBEd and cropped.  But I do notice that this image is a tiny bit bigger than the last, so maybe I cropped it out last time.  Anyway--thanks for looking and seeing.

Rodd

It's a stacking artefact. Only way to get rid of it is crop. It's always better to temove this first, before dbe. Otherwise it can cause trouble later on.

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48 minutes ago, wimvb said:

 

It's a stacking artefact. Only way to get rid of it is crop. It's always better to temove this first, before dbe. Otherwise it can cause trouble later on.

I know--I think in this case, at the time of DBE use, it was not as noticeable (I didn't notice it).  Afterwards, through processing it became more defined.  Uh oh.....I feel ANOTHER reprocess brewing.  (The tinder is warm and smoking--but no ember has lit, so my inclination is to let it cool off peacefully).?

Rodd

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On 22/11/2018 at 16:44, souls33k3r said:

The guidescope that i use is this one (This is the orion variation of it)

guidescope.png.b8361003ebff9de45ac8ad9d134064d4.png

It's a tight fit on the rings and the base either goes on the mounting shoe or there is a thread underneath it and i tighten it down with that. It does not move one bit either way but like you said, i'm basically pushing it with the C8. My stars don't look too bad either. This is the image i took with this guidescope.

IC63.thumb.jpg.0997c14956a623115aa703ac6d958a44.jpg

For flats what i have is the ceiling LED panel which has a dimmer switch. I just need to work out how to take flats using that bad boy. Tried the iPad approach but as soon as the screen touches the metal part of the scope, it goes all crazy and starts turning off the light or changes it's mode to something else. 

 

You can set it up so the screen can’t be touched. I use it, it works ?

 

https://m.wikihow.com/Use-Guided-Access-to-Disable-Parts-of-an-iPad-Screen

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