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Beginner: how to solder RCA socket to veroboard?


choochoo_baloo

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I'm assembling a circuit, and after unpacking the right angled RCA sockets I'm not sure the correct method of soldering to veroboard.

  1. What are the circled plastic pins for? Do they take up mechanical strain of plugging cycles by locating tough veroboard holes?
  2. In which case, should the flat terminals just be poked through and bent up to get approximately flush with the copper surface?

This is probably very obvious to most, but I want to do things properly and not bodge ?

IMG_4357.jpg

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The plastic pins are for strain relief for the socket and can be melted slightly to hold the socket in place if they don’t clip in. Don’t bend the metal terminal but just solder it and then snip off the excess.

Edited by johninderby
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9 minutes ago, johninderby said:

The plastic pins are for strain relief for the socket and can be melted slightly to hold the socket in place if needed. Don’t bend the metal terminal but just solder it and then snip off the excess.

Thanks John. So to be clear, all five pins (3 plastic + 2 metal) should protrude through the veroboard?

Also, a related question: the square recess and straight slots on both sides of the housing look like the whole component should slot into something? Again, I can't find a beginner friendly guide on what this interface is.

Edited by choochoo_baloo
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Do the plastic pins align with the holes in the board? If they don’t then the metal ones should be long enough to pass through and be soldered and the plastic pins should just hold the socket off the board.

Hard to tell from the pic.

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They are designed to be used with PCBs rather than Veroboard and mounting many types of PCB connector on Veroboard can be a problem.  You may have to drill holes where there aren't holes already - this can be difficult if close to a hole that's already there..

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My Veroboard is 0.1"/2.5mm hole pitch (so standard spacing).

Yes only 2 of the plastic pins on the connector line up with these holes.

For anybody's benefit; there seems to be a second standard hole pitch of 3.8mm. This would fit this RCA socket perfectly (all pin separations are multiples of 3.8mm). Anyways, not buying another board just for this, so will trim the pins to fit the 2.5mm pitch board.

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Hi Matthew,

Just a note of caution here. Using RCA connectors soldered to Vero board is NOT a good idea. It takes a fair amount of force to insert and remove the RCA plugs and all that force is being held by some very thin copper strips. Sooner rather than later the connector will come adrift from the Vero. It is a really good idea to use chassis mounting connectors and let the box or whatever take the strain.

I know that there is an enormous amount of equipment sold that have the connectors soldered directly to the pcb, I have some myself, but that doesn't stop it being a very bad design. If you intend to mount your circuit in any sort of a box, then for the sake of drilling a hole or two in it, you can have much improved reliability.

HTH.

Regards, Hugh

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I always do the same as you Hugh.  Connectors on PCBs or even worse on stripboard (Veroboard) are often a source of trouble and I've had plenty!!

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If the plastic pins don't (quite) match the Vero-Holes, I "drill out" the
nearest vero holes to fit them? If that doesn't look promising, I snip off
the plastic pins from socket, enlarge for, and SOLDER the solder pins.
Add a bit of (Super?) Glue to available flat surfaces on socket/board... ?

Edited by Macavity
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  • 1 year later...

Hi...i would recommend to utilize additional motion glue and ensure you plug an old link into the Jack before patching. Do that on the grounds that occasionally the protecting center will disfigure, the attachment keeps it focused regardless of whether you dissolve a portion of the center plastic.

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