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Imaging DSO in July


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Hi all

 

Being  pretty new to DSO (managed 3 targets last season) I packed away my scope and Atik 314 mono a few weeks back thinking it was too light and just kept a watch out for Noctilicient clouds,moon etc. but i've started to notice good images of The Veil and Andromeda  being done from Uk skies.I'm confused..i thought that it wasn't possible at this time of year.Any thoughts or advice?..is it harder to image..do i need MORE gear.???

Many Thanks

Craig

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Craig

Choose your targets carefully - much better with Globular clusters and Planetary nebs for the 6 weeks around solstice.  With my DSLR i struggle to get enough contrast in any one session.  Maybe multi sessions on the same target is the way to go, but I havent got that far yet..

cheers

Mike

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6 minutes ago, mikeyj1 said:

Craig

Choose your targets carefully - much better with Globular clusters and Planetary nebs for the 6 weeks around solstice.  With my DSLR i struggle to get enough contrast in any one session.  Maybe multi sessions on the same target is the way to go, but I havent got that far yet..

cheers

Mike

Thanks Mike.I have a feeling by the time i've got my set up tracking the sun will be up but its probably worth it so i'm ready when it gets darker.cheers

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25 minutes ago, Demonperformer said:

It depends what time of night you image and which direction you are pointing. East in the early hours of the morning allows you to get the 'autumn' DSOS. 

Well i never.Thanks for the reply.I can see it would be a very limited time window which does not bode well for my limited experience but will give it a go if possible.

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If you go for high surface brightness (rather than magnitude) targets you should still get decent results. It's the fainter stuff that becomes increasingly difficult with twilight, LP or Moon glow. Your 314 should cope better than a DSLR due to its higher dynamic range. Gradient removal software is a great help.

Narrowband filters are another option for out of season imaging.

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I've imaged in late June / early July in H-alpha, even when the sky was gack. The narrower the bandwidth the better. 3nm is pretty much an all-year-round imaging filter.

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18 minutes ago, DaveS said:

I've imaged in late June / early July in H-alpha, even when the sky was gack. The narrower the bandwidth the better. 3nm is pretty much an all-year-round imaging filter.

hi dave 7nm any good,what would you recommend for this at this time of year? cheers

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I got 3.5 hours on NGC6888 on both Monday and Tuesday evenings using a 12nm H-filter.  I think they were great results, even with a large moon, and I am using an Atik mono camera. I refuse to quit!!

 

4B3BA591-F054-418C-BE9A-AF5AA574300C.jpeg

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33 minutes ago, iwols said:

hi dave 7nm any good,what would you recommend for this at this time of year? cheers

I think 7nm might be OK provided there's no moon around to add to the light. 3nm just gives you more scope, as even at this time of year a moderate amount of moon can be coped with.

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50 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

Looking at my imaging times, the moon rose approx at the time of my first sub (mid-night) and was between 85-77% illuminated, so I'd say a 7nm would be excellent.

what scope did you use, ihave the option of ed80 or c8 edge?

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4 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

Skywatcher ED80 with FF x0.85 at F6.37

thanks tooth what camera was it and what was the length of the captures,were all images with the ha filter,sorry for all the questions but not used the ha filter before,ps great image considering the seeing conditions

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56 minutes ago, iwols said:

well thanks to tooth ? looks like the ed80 is coming back out,dont know why but i always end up coming  back to the ed80,sure is a mighty fine scope

Good to hear :D

300s exposures with a 12nm Ha filter designed to clip into a DSLR.  Taken with an Atik 383L+ mono 

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13 hours ago, Knight of Clear Skies said:

If you go for high surface brightness (rather than magnitude) targets you should still get decent results. It's the fainter stuff that becomes increasingly difficult with twilight, LP or Moon glow. Your 314 should cope better than a DSLR due to its higher dynamic range. Gradient removal software is a great help.

Narrowband filters are another option for out of season imaging.

Excellent stuff.Think.i will dust off the boxes and get the grass cut for the Ha filter.Thanks

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20 minutes ago, Craig123 said:

Excellent stuff.Think.i will dust off the boxes and get the grass cut for the Ha filter.Thanks

go for it craig good luck and dont forget to post the efforts?

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4 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

Good to hear :D

300s exposures with a 12nm Ha filter designed to clip into a DSLR.  Taken with an Atik 383L+ mono 

do you have a single raw image ,tooth ,:help:so i know what i should be looking for available

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