DSOs I can image with just a DSLR

[Garbus]

Hello.

Just starting out with astrophotography, and the only equipment I've really got is my Canon 60D and an 18-200mm lens for it, and I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions for some relatively easy DSOs I might be able to image with what I've got. 

Obviously M42 is one, I've already managed to get some images of it, but they're not great and lack a lot of detail, so some tips for improving would also help. Also, tips for keeping a tripod steady would be helpful, as when I go to adjust mine the whole thing seems to move and I lose what Im aiming at.

Thanks!

[SilverAstro]

It all depends ! what you want a DSO to be !

Beehive cluster M44

I am also just starting out with a 60D, and 135mm heritage! lens (after more than 1/2century of visual !) I have not yet used my monster Evo tripod ,

, just an elcheapo photo tripod for convenience of quick setup to concentrate on operating the camera - and have not had any problem steering it, with a gentle left hand, whilst operating the live view magnify to get focus on a bright star with the righthand. I dont say this to be more clever than thou, it just makes me wonder what tripod and what condx you are working, perhaps more info of gear and a pic would help ?

I especially did not go for M42, lots of clever photographers do and thus I would be disappointed with my humble efforts !

likewise M45, good/bright to get a feel for where things are and how to point, I dont have the luxury of starting wide and going in, so high ISO, quick (a few seconds) exp, to see a pic of where I am am and cast about till you get it, ie. move suitably in a rectangular search !!

but once on target (and the beehive is in a challenging empty area but once found is unmistakable) my cheap tripod is good to keep me there. odd. so I am not sure what is going wrong with your setup

For the images of the target once found, use the timer, set it at 10sec delay (2sec is almost but not quite good enough for my ham-fist) if you are pressing the big button (!) on the camera, I have not yet made up a cable release.

sandbags and tension braces for stability are often suggested for tripods, but I dont think we are yet at that stage ?

edit : Oh sorry, getting carried away with business at hand ! , I forgot my manners - welcome aboard

edit2 : M42 is not very large (is this the main problem? )  for a 200mm lens look for star fields and or asterisms to practice your art until the BIG dso ONE comes round, (M31 Andromeda)

[hjw]

Sooner or later you will need some form of tracking device: a home made "barn door" being the simplest, followed by a SW Star Adventurer or similar to a motorized mount. Otherwise you will be limited to very short exposure times. There are various rules, usually 500 or 600 divided by focal length equals exposure time in seconds before stars start trailing. For example at 200mm your maximum exposure time would be 2.5-3 sec. My suggestion would be to start with the milky way with 18mm and take about 30 sec exposures (quite a few) and practice stacking with DSS and some post processing. Once you get some tracking equipment any larger DSOs come in range. I started out like this and it is good fun!

Good luck.

HJ

[wok]

I don't know anything about astrophotography, but saw this video a few days ago, you may find it useful:

 

[Demonperformer]

Hi
Attached is a list of all 37 NGC & IC objects with a maximum dimension greater than 44', going down to 35S (about 8.5 degrees above your horizon - New Brunswick 46.5N horizon = -43.5).
The lowest object is M7, which I have managed to photograph from my location (max altitude: 4 and a bit degrees).
There are, of course, other things that are not listed, particularly some of the larger open clusters like the coma cluster, the hyades, the perseus a cluster, etc
Some of these objects will be impossible with too much light pollution, but this list should hopefully give you a decent starting point.

HTH

big ngc.txt

[Garbus]

Thanks for the suggestions. Definitely one of the first things I want to get is some kind of tacking mount for my camera. I was also looking into light pollution filters, but my town has recently switched to LED street lights, and I feel like those are to wide spectrum to filter out :/. I would love to get some shots of the milky way, I'll have to find a place well outside my town to escape light pollution. Are there any decent free/cheap image stacking programs for Windows?

[Demonperformer]

Deep Sky Stacker is free and adequate for a start. 

[Garbus]

Alrighty, thanks! Now I just have to wait for the weather to clear up, been a solid week of snow. 

[Demonperformer]

Was on my phone when I did the last post, so couldn't easily get it, but here is the link for DSS.

[newbie alert]

On a static tripod you be limited to short exposures but don't let that stop you from trying..the milky way is a fantastic target for short exposures..give it a boost with a high ish iso 1600-3200.. 20 sec exposures( that's using it at 18mm)..id recommend a intervalometer,fairly cheap on eBay but saves you touching the camera and causing vibrations..A dark sky is all thats needed, without the moon

Deep sky stacker is great for stacking and can't get any cheaper than free.. it will make you get used to taking darks,bias and flats with your lights..enjoy and have some fun

[KemalOz]

On 12.03.2018 at 00:04, Garbus said:

Alrighty, thanks! Now I just have to wait for the weather to clear up, been a solid week of snow. 

start with milky way, set the focal length to at most 25mm. I think you will be able to get 10-30 second exposures without obvious star trails. Set the smallest f number possible and iso to no more than 1600. Learn to process the photos, first try single images with a foreground like a tree or a house. Later on start stacking multiple shots using Deep Sky Stacker. but if you gonna stack don't put anything in the foreground.

 

Use the timer to take the shots, don't touch the camera. Install magic lantern to your DSLR, it is a free third party firmware that lets you do many things normally you can't do with a stock Canon. Like timelapses.  

 

Other objects like m42 that require more fl will also require tracking. A star tracker will be a nice addition to your setup if you like and want to pursue imaging. Also a fast sharp prime lens.

[Stub Mandrel]

Consider a Star Adventurer:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-star-adventurer.html

 

[ollypenrice]

I had to look it up because we Europeans always think Canada is further north than it really is, but New Brunswick is at about 46.5 deg N, I discovered. This will give quite a good window on the Milky Way when it's well placed in summer. You need to find a spot with the darkest possible southern horizon and then fixed tripod shots at very short focal length will work well.

Olly

[Garbus]

Theres actually two Dark Sky Sanctuaries within a reasonable driving distance from me, so I'll probably take a few camping trips to them during the summer. Definitely a good place to get some Milky way images.