QHY10 Green Star Issue

[Wayne76]

Hi Everyone

I am using C11 with QHY10 with HyperStar System, 

1)  When a bright star is in the picture, it some how always turn to be green, I always end up to turn down the green and raise blue to get it back to white, 

2) Also bright star always turn to be big round shape instead spike shape,  is it due to the camera issue as well ?

 

If anyone know the answer pls let me know, thanks, 

 

Thanks

Wayne 

2-Jan-2018

[Pig]

Beautiful image Wayne....thank you for sharing ? I don’t do AP so I cannot help with your questions.

[Wayne76]

7 hours ago, Pig said:

Beautiful image Wayne....thank you for sharing ? I don’t do AP so I cannot help with your questions.

Thanks, I have also wrote to QHY10 web sit, but no response ....

[Pig]

Wayne, I am sure someone here will be able to help ....... just give it time and the post will be noticed by the AP Geeks ? or should I say professionals !!!

Today is the first day back at work for many people after the new year so responses from QHY, and others, may be delayed a tad as they catch up with their workload.

[MarsG76]

Green bloat or not, it looks great.. It might just be a exposure/overexposure balance issue... I need to expose separately for bright and dim parts of a image than mask them HDR style together.

 

[Wayne76]

1 hour ago, MarsG76 said:

Green bloat or not, it looks great.. It might just be a exposure/overexposure balance issue... I need to expose separately for bright and dim parts of a image than mask them HDR style together.

 

Thank you for liking the photo,

but I think, it is more of Camera issue, the longer the exposure should make Bring more detail out but and not making the bright star green,

Below is Rosette Nebula I did, I only did 30s x 100 sub,  it is short exposure so there isn’t much detail in it, in the photo there is no bright star, so all the star appear to be normal white color.

[MarsG76]

11 hours ago, Wayne76 said:

Thank you for liking the photo,

but I think, it is more of Camera issue, the longer the exposure should make Bring more detail out but and not making the bright star green,

Below is Rosette Nebula I did, I only did 30s x 100 sub,  it is short exposure so there isn’t much detail in it, in the photo there is no bright star, so all the star appear to be normal white color.

Longer exposure is to bring out more faint objects, or dimmer parts of the imaged object.

overexposure can actually wash detail away.

[Wayne76]

11 hours ago, MarsG76 said:

Longer exposure is to bring out more faint objects, or dimmer parts of the imaged object.

overexposure can actually wash detail away.

Thanks for the advice, I am actually still waiting for my wedge  to take longer exposure and less subs

[MarsG76]

3 hours ago, Wayne76 said:

Thanks for the advice, I am actually still waiting for my wedge  to take longer exposure and less subs

And than you can do narrowband imaging too...

[Adam J]

Get the hastalavista green plugin for photoshop and it will sort this out. Its free too. Search for Deep Sky Colors HLVG.

[Wayne76]

1 hour ago, Adam J said:

Get the hastalavista green plugin for photoshop and it will sort this out. Its free too. Search for Deep Sky Colors HLVG.

Hi Adam

does this plug in also work with light room

 

thanks

[Adam J]

Dont know sorry.  Best to look on their web page.

[Wayne76]

2 hours ago, MarsG76 said:

And than you can do narrowband imaging too...

Yes I am planning to, now I am only got UHC filter 

[Adam J]

This is what it did to it, nothing else changed.

[Wayne76]

20 hours ago, Adam J said:

Dont know sorry.  Best to look on their web page.

Your Rosette Nebula looks very beautiful, I also need to start to use different filters  to create better images 

[Wayne76]

Finally reply from QHY company, need to do post processing myself, ....

http://qhyccd.com/bbs/index.php?topic=6317.msg32715#msg32715

In which by doing so, also change the colour of image which is what I exactly afraid of....

Any way, need to start to use monochrome camera....

[Thalestris24]

Everyone does stacking/calibration followed by post-processing. It's all part of the AP process! The basics for osc images involve aligning the colours on the histogram, setting levels and selective stretching with curves.

Good luck!

Louise

[Wayne76]

23 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

Everyone does stacking/calibration followed by post-processing. It's all part of the AP process! The basics for osc images involve aligning the colours on the histogram, setting levels and selective stretching with curves.

Good luck!

Louise

Apparently, this is one of the issue with amp glow issue on the QHY CCD camera, 

Starlight Xpress version with same chip, M26 does the same thing,

but it seems ZWO ASI 071 MC Pro don't have this issue,

Stretching, doing alignment is one thing, but getting amp glow is a different issue

[Thalestris24]

38 minutes ago, Wayne76 said:

Apparently, this is one of the issue with amp glow issue on the QHY CCD camera, 

Starlight Xpress version with same chip, M26 does the same thing,

but it seems ZWO ASI 071 MC Pro don't have this issue,

Stretching, doing alignment is one thing, but getting amp glow is a different issue

Huh? Who mentioned amp glow? You don't seem to have any amp glow in your image and it should calibrate out with darks anyway. Amp glow usually appears as a bright patch in one corner of the frame and is exposure duration dependent.

Louise

[Wayne76]

 

QHY10 CCD is dual channel output,

one channel output red and blue pixels, another channel output green pixels. because of the slightly different characteristics of the two channel CCD channels, 

The system gain and bias of the two channels are slightly different. In the image, its color image, the background is partial green or the partial color is red.

and yes, I do get purple frame, even after using darks, 

Frankly speaking  these star should be blue color . it can only  be solved by a good color balance adjustment to make it looks like a little blue.