Advice needed for new camera

[Lee_P]

Hi all,

My QHY8L is playing up and in case I can’t get it working again, I’m pondering options for a new camera. Advice would be much appreciated!

·       I image with an 80ED DS-Pro OTA with 0.85x Focal Reducer/Flattener.

·       I’m surrounded by light pollution

·       So far I’ve only used colour cameras. I find them easy to use, and I like that in a few hours I can obtain plenty of data to play with. But maybe it’s time to venture to mono..?

·       I like the big sensor on the QHY8L.

Here are some photos I've taken with the QHY8L: https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=50508914%40N00&sort=date-taken-desc&text=QHY8L&view_all=1

 

Any thoughts about what I could consider? If my QHY8L is repairable than I’d want a new camera that’s an appreciable upgrade, to soften the blow of having to get a new one. A bit of Googling has flagged up possibilities like the ZWO ASI1600MM, QHY163, QHY168…

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Guest]

Hi Lee_P,

I have both, ZWO ASI1600MM and the QHY163M, and if again must buy a new CCD, then I will go for ZWO ASI1600MM. the drivers ( also ASCOM ) from ASI are much more stable that from QHY.. and the Quality and the design ( USB HUB on ASI is great for attaching AUTOGUIDER or a FW ) that is my opinion..

Cheers

 

Martin

 

[Lee_P]

Thanks Martin, that's very helpful. I notice that the QHY163M has a heated window to avoid the sensor fogging up, but the 1600 doesn't. Is that a feature you miss?

[LightBucket]

The 163 also has a RAM memory buffer, which is a real must for these large resolution cameras...the ASI does not, also Atik are bringing out there version of these CMOS cameras very soon, I personally am waiting for there’s..

[Guest]

30 minutes ago, Lee_P said:

Thanks Martin, that's very helpful. I notice that the QHY163M has a heated window to avoid the sensor fogging up, but the 1600 doesn't. Is that a feature you miss?

Hi Lee_P, telling the truth, I did not miss the missing heated window with ASI until today ( summer time  ), but despite that QHY is also a great CCD and has an heated window and a buffer but one matter did really disturb to me with the QHY, the drivers, I get doconnections during the sessions, and have to unplug the USB and replug it again to get the CCD work again ( those are my expereinces with QHY163M ), else and with a better driver ( stable ) from QHY, I would say QHY is also a good deal, also in respect with the price you pay for an QHY163M..

With ASI1600, despite it is without any heated window or a buffer, I do not have any driver issues.. and that counts for me at this moment..

Cheers

Martin

PS! One matter is excellent for both CCD ASI and QHY, how quick the USB3 works and data is downloaded, far better and quicker than with with USB2 connection days..  

 

 

[spillage]

I think Atik are claiming that the new cmos camera will have ddr111 memory buffering that will allow usb3 speeds over usb2 connections. I guess that the physical speed will not actually increase but the the time between shoots will decrease giving you same effect.

[Lee_P]

So here's an inevitable question: mono or colour? The  mono ASI1600 with LRGB filters, wheel, H-alpha filter, all tops £1700; while the colour version is £1000. And I like just being able to set up a camera and go... But I do live in horribly light-polluted skies, and playing with H-alpha sounds like it could be fun...

[swag72]

Just now, Lee_P said:

So here's an inevitable question: mono or colour? The  mono ASI1600 with LRGB filters, wheel, H-alpha filter, all tops £1700; while the colour version is £1000. And I like just being able to set up a camera and go... But I do live in horribly light-polluted skies, and playing with H-alpha sounds like it could be fun...

Mono will be more versatile under your light polluted conditions...... for me it would be a no brainer Also, you can set your capture program to run L,R,G,B,L,R,G,B, etc, so at least that way you won't end up with all red or all luminance!!! 

[Lee_P]

3 hours ago, swag72 said:

Mono will be more versatile under your light polluted conditions...... for me it would be a no brainer

I see what you mean. I'm just a bit concerned that if the process of imaging becomes more complex, there's a tipping point where it could become less fun. If that makes sense..?

[swag72]

25 minutes ago, Lee_P said:

I see what you mean. I'm just a bit concerned that if the process of imaging becomes more complex, there's a tipping point where it could become less fun. If that makes sense..?

I have used a OSC CCD camera and found it very difficult to process.... for me mono is much easier.... But don't take my word for it... Look around the forum  

[Lee_P]

2 hours ago, swag72 said:

I have used a OSC CCD camera and found it very difficult to process.... for me mono is much easier....

Do you need to refocus after switching to a different filter? If so, doesn't that add a lot to the complexity?

[swag72]

I do re-focus at filter changes, but it's all done with an electronic auto focuser........ Alternatively you can work out offsets and you won't need to focus.

Saying that though, it is good practice to refocus as the temperatures change during the night, the focus will rarely be the same all night.

[Lee_P]

I have a Skywatcher Autofocusser that I control via my laptop. Is it possible to automate that?

[Lee_P]

And another question, if I may... FLO have ASI1600 bundles, and one is for LGRB + H-a, while another has all those filters plus SII / OIII. The former is cheaper and so more appealing, but then buying the other filters later would be a hassle because then a larger filter wheel would be needed. So I guess my question is, is it worth going for the complete set straight away, assuming mono imagers want to end up with all those filters anyway? Or is there any benefit, other than cost saving, to starting with the smaller set?

[newbie alert]

I asked the question to Ian king as I was driving myself barmy.. I use the same scope and reducer..

 

So its worth looking at cameras like the Starlight XPress TRIUS 825 and ATIK 414EX, and also cameras like the Starlight TRIUS 694 and ATIK 460. These have larger sensors than the 825 but otherwise similar attributes.
So its worth looking at cameras like the Starlight XPress
So its worth looking at cameras like the Starlight XPress TRIUS 825 and ATIK 414EX, and also cameras like the Starlight TRIUS 694 and ATIK 460. These have larger sensors than the 825 but otherwise similar attributes.
TRIUS 825 and ATIK 414EX, and also cameras like the Starlight TRIUS 694 and ATIK 460. These have larger sensors than the 825 but otherwise similar attributes.

[Lee_P]

What did you go for in the end? I'm leading toward the ASI1600, but am still torn between OSC and Mono + filters...

[newbie alert]

1 hour ago, Lee_P said:

What did you go for in the end? I'm leading toward the ASI1600, but am still torn between OSC and Mono + filters...

I haven't as yet..need to save a few pennies first

[swag72]

On 26/08/2017 at 10:42, Lee_P said:

I have a Skywatcher Autofocusser that I control via my laptop. Is it possible to automate that?

For me automation is done via the SGP software..... As long as the focus unit is ASCOM compliant then I see no reason why, with the correct software, you couldn't automate the process. 

[Lee_P]

Thanks Sara. I've ordered the ASI1600 mono plus filters... Let the steep learning curve commence!

[wimvb]

Good choice. I've recently made the step from unmodded dslr to mono cmos, asi174mm with lrgb filters. Lrgb imaging isn't slower than osc, and I think less sensitive to lp. I have my SW motorfocuser connected to a raspberry pi running indi/ekos, and can use the autofocus feature. Processing isn't more difficult than osc, as I do an rgb combination as one of the first steps after stacking. PixInsight lets me throw all subs into the same pot (batch preprocessing) and creates 4 masters, one for each filter. Refocusing shouldn't depend on filters, but on chromatic aberration in the optics. For my newt that isn't a problem. (Indi/ekos has an automated refocusing routine, that I haven't had to use yet.)