600D (for astro only) - modification a no-brainer?

[Andyb90]

Wow, that is one heck of a before and after shot!

I see both cheap astrophotography and astronomiser get good reviews, so I think I'll go with one of them for the mod.

Thanks everyone for the comments.

Andy.

[Tinker1947]

Cheapastro supplied me with a new 600D and modded it with his cheaper option Juan also sent this text to help should i want to use the 600D for day time pictures......

"If you want to use the camera for occasional daylight photography, please use auto white balance and setk (WB SHIFT/BKT ) to B9G9 in the camera's menu. I have increased slightly those values so it will cover most typical daytime light conditions. When you want to use the camera for astrophotography, you can set the parameter backt to B0G0 and WB to daylight.

It is also advised to use the camera in AV mode for daylight use (as 90% of photographers do). Please notice that any other white balance setting: daylight, tungsten, etc will produce pictures with the typical tinge of astromodified cameras.

This white balance correction works well in daylight photography. If you want to use the flash, you will have to call it via the external flash button in the camera. Otherwise, the camera will ignore your selection of white balance to AWB and it will change automatically the setting.

There is a situation where the auto-correction does not work well, though. This is during non-astronomical photography at night in artificial tungsten illumination. For those situations, it is advised that a custom white balance is taken. The same white balance can always be used under those circumstances. 

The LP1 anti-aliasing filter (AAF) in your camera has been retained. Please remember to keep the setting 'autoclean' to 'disable' when using it for astrophotography in order to avoid the camera messing with your flat frames 

( the optical train changes slightly when the AA filter shakes in order to clean the camera, thus voiding your flat frames for the night). "

It works very well......this is a picture with the Modded 600D following the instructions above...

[sharkmelley]

I would go for it. this is why:

Pelican nebula, unmodded Canon 10D:

Pelican nebula, modded Canon 10D:

Those cannot be like for like pictures.  If you re-examine the exposure parameters or your processing sequence you will find some other explanation for why there are so many more stars and so much more colour in the images taken after the mod.

Modding certainly makes a very worthwhile difference for H-alpha nebulosity and I thoroughly recommend it but don't expect to see differences of that magnitude.

Mark

[Stub Mandrel]

I'm sorry. it wasn't my intent to mislead. The first picture was a genuine attempt by me to get the Pelican nebula.

The poor images are a stack of 5 30 second exposures at ISO 1600 and using my f8 scope, I managed to hit the dead centre of the nebula. I've gone back to DSS and tried stacking them again and there's no sign of nebulosity at all.

The second set are a stack of 32 using an f6.3 telephoto lens for 80s at iso 1600, so presumably about four times the exposure. So to even things up, this is a single frame from the second set processed, of course.

A better example would have been this, part of the North America Nebula. It's not very good for all sorts of reasons, but I think it is a fair comparison to the successful pelican shot:

The point is that, without the mod I have been almost entirely unable to get any red nebulosity to show up in any of my pictures, except those of  the ring and dumbell nebulas when pushed really, really hard.

As soon as I did the modification, it was there.

[Tinker1947]

I have this single 3 minute image of cygnus Deneb in the left corner  taken with the Modded 600D, 100mm @ F2.8, iso 800 not much processing from memory....

[Andyb90]

I found this information on my CLS clip filter, which indicates it will work best with a nodded camera:

DSLR photography (astro modified): Very good, colour balance is near perfect

DSLR photography (original): Good, colour balance shifted but contrast enhanced

I do get a definite blue cast on my subs with the CLS at the moment, which I don't find so easy to process out. However I'm quite new to photoshop so it may just be my inexperience.

Looks like the mod will have the extra bonus of better colour balance with the CLS.

Andy.

[D4N]

If your camera has UV/IR block then the CLS is fine, however if it doesn't then it is not.

From the astronomik website:

"If your IR-block filter is permanent removed or replaced by a MC-clear filter, your camera is highly sensitive in infrared. Therefore you need filters of the Astronomik-CCD-series (h-alpha, OIII-CCD, SII-CCD and h-beta-CCD), because only these filters have a built-in IR-block. The visual filters (UHC, UHC-E, Hß and CLS) are reasonable only with a IR-block filter."

I have no idea why they call it a visual filter then mount it in such a way that it can only be used in a camera.

/Dan

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[Andyb90]

Ah right I can see that statement on the website (below link) under this question:

The IR-block filter is completely removed from my camera. Do I need any special filters?

http://www.astronomik.com/en/clip-filter-system.html

But there is also this question and answer, which seems to contradict it. The bit I've highlighted in orange below. Now I'm confused 

When I use the Clip-Filter Systems do I still have to make other modifications to my Canon EOS digital camera for astro-imaging? Specifically, removing the camera’s OEM IR-blocking filter over the sensor?

The Astronomik Clip-Filter System does not have anything directly to do with a digital camera’s “IR-band blocking filter”. Regular photographic digital camera sensors have a very small sensitivity in the H-alpha line portion of the spectrum which is bad for regular photographs but very important for astro-imaging. Hence, Canon sells it’s cameras with an internal “IR-blocking filter” over the sensor to remove the over abundance of ‘red’ due to Infrared from ordinary photos. For astro-imaging, sensitivity in the red (the H-alpha line) is desired and is achieved by the removal of the camera’s internal IR blocking filter. The Clip-Filter System has no idea if Canon’s IR-blocking filter is installed or whether it has been removed. The Clip-Filter System can be used with both converted and with un-converted cameras with equal results.. (While the idea of not having to remove the IR-blocking filter in the first place would be welcomed, a filter used in front of the lens which increases IR red sensitivity is not available yet!... )

Andy.

[D4N]

I would say that the statement must be erroneous.

The results certainly won't be equal or there would be no point converting the camera!

It may be that they are trying to say that the UHC clip filters will still increase contrast on unmodded cameras but it doesn't come across that way.

/Dan

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[Interstellarshaw88]

Another question Dan is I've been offered a canon 500d in very good condition for little money of the father in law would this be a good start to get modded ?

If so what mod would you do a full spectrum or the other one,

I already own a cls-ccd filter btw so that will block the infrared light ?

[D4N]

I think the 500D is a pretty good camera, since you have the CCD version of the CLS filter this is stated as having IR block so I would just have a full spectrum mod where the IR block filter is removed.

/Dan

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[Interstellarshaw88]

Thanks Dan where would I buy the Astromik clear glass tho as flo don't have it with the looks of it ?

Thanks Darren

[D4N]

I don't know about the astronomik ones but I would get this if I was going to replace the filter otherwise I would just take it out and not replace it at all.

http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p254_BCF-Filter-for-Refitting-Canon-EOS-400D-450D-500D-550D-600D-1000.html

/Dan

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[Interstellarshaw88]

No idea what that site says but I get the idea your trying to get across, the camera would not be used for anything else other then Astro imaging so would I need to put the clear glass back in or not ? This is what I'm having difficulty in.

Thanks Darren

[Demon Barber]

Give Juan a quick calll at cheapastrophotography i feel sure he will put you on the right road.

Or even just read the notes on his website they have the answers to the problem you are having .

I used him for a mod on my canon500d and was very impressed with his knowledge and enthusiasm,he turned my mod around in 4 days and he is very reasonably priced.

HTH

Regards

Mike

[Merlin66]

Darren,

I use a "bare" FULL full spectrum modded 1000D with no issues for spectroscopy.

HOWEVER, if you want to make use of the standard Canon lens(s) for astro work then to get good infinity focus you need to add either the clear glass or, like me, add a clear Astronomik clip in filter.

[D4N]

You can also perform a further mod on either the camera or lens.

The lens can be modified to move past the infinity point or what I did was move the sensor closer to the front of the camera.

/Dan

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[Interstellarshaw88]

Thank you all for your advise,

I've gone a head and brought the camera off my father in law at (60 pound for just the body) I couldn't not buy it.

So I'll be getting it either tonight or tomorrow night and will have ago at stripping it, I've got one how to from Gary honis I think is name is is there any more so I can cross reference so I know exactly what to do.

Thanks Darren